Check the voltage at the battery terminals with and without the fridge connected. If the drop in voltage is similar, then it is the load on the battery that is causing the voltage to drop- this would be normal, as these fridges draw quite a lot of current (ours pulls 15A so we only run it on 12V when towing and the alternator is supplying the load). Our 3-way also performs best on gas, a little worse on 240V and worst on 12V. Cheers
C00P
-- Edited by C00P on Monday 27th of February 2017 04:12:12 PM
I am not a techie but 3 way fridges draw a lot of power & are designed to used on 12v only when the engine is running with the alternator supplying input. Are your 13.2v & 12.2v readings with the engine running - if it is then you might like to post the make & year model of your vehicle so the gurus can advise- if not post the readings with the engine running.
Three way fridges should be connected directly to the start battery via a solenoid or fridge switch and fuse using 6B&S wire right through anderson plug connection to the fridge regardless of your type of alternator. Fridges run better this way than through house batteries even though they are being charged . 40 years trade experience has proven this. I have tried three ways on my own vehicleHouse batts plus charging, dual battery and solenoid and Direct from battery. Direct from battery with the correct wiring fusing etc will keep the cook happy and the beer colder the best, including DCDC system.Your alternator will read the current and voltage draw and charge appropriately.
>it actually gets colder on 12V than on gas or 240V
That is unusual. It may be worth cleaning the burner/jet and flue. A vacuum cleaner will do a good job on the flue if you can get it into position.
We had the whole unit serviced at Caravan Refrigeration Services in Melbourne a few months ago. Had our van 4 years & 12v has always been colder since new?
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Cheers Keith & Judy
Don't take life too seriously, it never ends well.
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hi
12 volt needs to be checked at the element for correct voltage . Voltage drop can be in the supply cable and or in the fridge switch . The supply needs to be at least 12v for good performance . Current draw needs checking .
Fridge vents have to be installed as per maker requires . Van companies rarely do this properly .
The 3 ways require a specific rear back space so thermal activity/cooling works .
The top vent needs to be above condenser with a proper duct . or
If the top side vent is below or equal in height to condenser , a duct from the condenser to a fan is required to external air
I have found that the temp does not come down greatly with fans only a moderate amount. The best performance is fridge deg celcius readings are more consistent irrespective of ambient .
Fridge service is often under done .
12v service is all the items outlined
Fridge seal and fridge internal /External condition
Gas
flu and jet clean
Gas pressure check at burner .....also check gas feed line for damage and leaks
ignitor check
flu is correctly installed to eject heat
240v
current draw and supply voltage needs checking
Three way fridges should be connected directly to the start battery via a solenoid or fridge switch and fuse using 6B&S wire right through anderson plug connection to the fridge regardless of your type of alternator.
I'd agree with this advice 100% - begin at the start battery, twin 6B&S cable, anderson plug, and 6B&S to fridge (and naturally the solenoid and fuse/breaker at batt positive). It's a formula I've seen work well time and time again. That's only if you like cold beer of course
