No problem with the 'venting' Mel. I think the second opinion from Ford is the way to go, even if just for peace of mind.

Just don't go to Phil C's dealer. Just say'n 

 

 

Keep Safe on the roads and out there.

Simple answer - you don't.

Two possibles:
1 - If you are male and have a good understanding of vehicles and have
a chat to them first and tell them you think the treadle beam may be
a few degrees out of skew of the drivers side cross member and would
they give you their opinion.

2 - Find a small family mechanic who has been there for ever and all
the locals say is good.

Avoid main dealers like the plague. Many (most) of them no longer
employ more than a couple of proper mechanics.

Fortunately I found an great little company here in Melbourne a
couple of years ago and although it's awkward for me to get to them
they now do all the work I don't want to - which is most of it :)

FYI: six months ago they did some work on my 4WD:
Flush and replace brake fluid - labour $38, fluid $14

Check cooling system and change coolant - labour $38, coolant $52

----

At 180k a diesel is only just run in.

You *really* should replace the brake fluid every three years - take
it from someone who had the brakes fail in the (European) Pyrenees!

You *really* should replace the coolant every xxx km/years to stop it
corroding the block.

MH

Hi Msg, I have no idea what sort of condition your vehicle is in but if you were confident prior to the service that you could drive it to Wagga and back without any dramas then nothing should have changed. I take it from your post that the mechanics message was you need to start thinking about replacing the vehicle because of its age, I would be waiting for the second opinion from Ford before losing any sleep as his opinion may be a load of rubbish. When you go to a chemist they ask if you want a cheaper generic brand, it should be the same when a mechanic services your car - do you want to use genuine parts or will generic ones do (the cost should then be reflected in that choice).

If you are really worried about the trip and are not already a member join the NRMA - I just paid $96 for a full years roadside assist. Don't stress too much - I don't think your wheels are any more likely to fall off today than they were a week ago.

Cheers
BB

You're probably right BB. But he did take the wheels off though. lol. I might not stress too much but it will be a niggle.

His opinion, just showed me that he knew nothing about diesels.

Already got premium care.

I was just annoyed that he lied and said he had used Ford replacement parts when he didn"t. and charged me for them.

As MH said its hardly worn in.

Ok I realize your female .. Sorry to hear about hubby.. Yes they'll take you and your money also.. MOST parts are made Asian counties now.. Infect the Japs have used the cheaper labour for decades.. Lexus parts are made in Thailand..
As long as filters are brands such as Rayco ,Wix, Fram, Purolator, AC Delco.. Older diesels did smoke back a few years ago, it was acceptable back then..Often smoke under load with foot down as injector pump is pushing higher amounts of fuel due to throttle position .. Later model EFI computer single rails work different due to pollution EPA..

-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Thursday 9th of March 2017 12:15:32 AM

Unfortunate that you are not happy with the work, it happens a lot in a lot of industries.
As stated, best to ask ( forums like this are great !) "can anyone recommend a trustworthy mechanic in Wagga?" or similar.
That way smartypantses like us can feel like we have helped, local trusted old mate mechanic gets more work and the world rotates as it should.

that said, a lot of what that mechanic told you is pretty close to the mark.

If you are travelling around a lot then get your filters, belts etc AND KEEP THEM ONBOARD - get the mechanic to use them instead of his own supply.
That way anyone can help if you get stranded with bad fuel or a breakdown.

happy travels!

G'day Mel,

Interesting topic, common problem. When any of us leave a vehicle for service we really have no idea about most of the items in the list. And that applies equally to males or females. Sure, we can dip the oil and see if it's clean, or look at the wheels to see if they've been rotated. But things like checking brakes and steering? Not much chance. And the hidden things like pollen filters ... well most owners don't even know where they are. So all customers can be seen by the unscrupulous mechanic as potential rip-offs. And I for one have fallen victim in the past, even with my mechanical knowledge.

There is common discrimination based on the customer's appearance. A man in a suit who looks like he could be a doctor or business executive is regarded as an easier touch than a chap wearing overalls with a bit of grease under his fingernails. The former, it is assumed, is well heeled and probably not interested in thing mechanical. Likewise the lady who needs "someone to fix whatever might be wrong", is more likely to be overcharged than the one who obviously knows what the problems are.

But we're only talking about the bad ones here, not the reliable workshops who care about their customers, the vehicles, and their reputations.

Incidentally, my last experience with a firm who considers themselves Ultra good has me now looking for another workshop. At the completion of the service they had to tell me how quick and easy the service was because the vehicle is in new condition. Really? I would have thought that checking the thirty items on the list would be taken just as seriously on a newish vehicle as an older one. I think there may have been a bit of assumption and short cut there. But I digress.

So don't go back to that mechanic. You don't trust him now and you never will. Keep looking and keep getting quotes for the work you want done. And keep up your road service membership.

Safe travels.

Bagmaker, "said, a lot of what that mechanic told you is pretty close to the mark."

Including that the engine had done 180k and was old and I should replace it?

Yes, I know that the coolant and brake fluid should be changed regularly it was the price he quoted that irritated me. Doubled the cost of the service.

Brian, Fuel Injector treatment may work. A lot of people swear by it. But.... it can also damage the seals. Try putting some directly on an old seal, leave for a few days and then have a look at the seal. Its as bad as coke. Of course the small amount you put into your tank will not do any damage but over time I'm not so sure about long term use.

Older type injectors can usually be serviced .. Either exchange them or old ones rebuilt..180k is about the time I would service them ..

Ok so now my two bobs worth I'm only a self tonight farmer who has to pay for my own muck ups so I have learnt a few things over the years on lots of different makes and models of farm vehicles

In my experience

The two most common reasons for exseive black smoke from any diesel is fuel or more to the point a lack of it ie: fuel filter got some dirty fuel somewhere ? Or air specifically a lack of it ie: dirty air cleaner both would normally be noticed by a lack of power at some point how ever it could be a slow decline and not really noticed for a while,( sudden onset of smoke probably you just got some dirty fuel on your last fill or two,)and should be the first point looked at by any decent motor mechanic then if both ok then look at sensors

A little smoke is basically normal anyway but modern computers are supposed to only allow a certain amount of fuel in based on the revs of the engine so as to not smoke ( pollution crap ) .

A long shot but possible is the exhaust or muffler is getting blocked up not allowing the air to get away from the engine this would also be accompanied by a slow loss of power over time and cause the engine to work harder than it should causing the black smoke.

Please don't skin me for this but could the smoke just be that you looked and the wind was in the right direction that you noticed it and it's been doing it all its life anyhow just never noticed it before ?

180,000 k just run in not run out

My dad used to insist on the parts that were replaced to be put in the boot so he knew they were replaced.
Years ago I had my Subaru ute serviced and they charged me for grease so I asked them to show me the grease niples that they greased they couldn't as there were none , I know of another that were charged for spark plugs and when they got home lifted the bonet to find the old ones still there as they were two different make of plugs they complained got their money back and never went back there again .

Woody

As Dougwe has already mentioned

A second opinion from another mechanic, without mentioning that a different mechanic, had recommended a new engine, is what I would do

Hopefully you will find a good mechanic, through word of mouth from friends/family/trusted members of a forum

As a sidenote (so you do not have to read the bit below)

As we are all different there are mechanics, and mechanics.
It does appear to me that some mechanics do take advantage of females, perhaps some mechanics never had a mother to tell them right from wrong

Many years ago young daughter was told by Ford mechanic, that the knock in her engine meant that she needed a new engine
I replaced a faulty hydraulic lifter, and all was well again

On last trip isolated battery on wifes 2008 BF Ford Falcon, returned home connected battery, and of course no radio working
Assuming like earlier model Fords, we require a radio number, she went to Ford people in Bunbury WA for radio number

Was told that the radio number for her engine/chassis was (for some reason) not on their computer
They advised she book it in for a reset, it would take half an hour, and cost $77, unless they found something else wrong

I looked up the net, the BF model Ford does not have a number to reset when you isolate/change a battery
The radio and ignition key have same number, steal a Ford radio, and it will not work in another Ford

I hit the radio go button, and all is well

Once again I can only say that their are mechanics, and mechanics

hi

My two cents worth. Being a fitter and mechanic for a lot of years and having jobs where I have had to organise the firms vehicle servicing, I can fairly say that the worst rips off I have seen have been big dealerships. I personally would not take my vehicle near one.

When I had a business I was the best mechanic in my field around and good value. If I was looking for a mechanic I would look around for a modest sized shop and speak to people with similar vehicles. Then go to the shop people speak highly of and build up a relationship with them. Trust is everthing. If you do not trust a tradesman then go else where.  

As I am getting a bit past doing more than just oils and filters now, that is what I have done and have taken my vehicle to a local shop in the back streets that others speak well off when it needed a bit more. A mechanic who is good will always be busy and have a lineup of customers and does not need to be on the main street or advertising much.  

Jaahn

Mike Harding wrote:

---

Simple answer - you don't.

Two possibles:
1 - If you are male and have a good understanding of vehicles and have
a chat to them first and tell them you think the treadle beam may be
a few degrees out of skew of the drivers side cross member and would
they give you their opinion.

2 - Find a small family mechanic who has been there for ever and all
the locals say is good.

Avoid main dealers like the plague. Many (most) of them no longer
employ more than a couple of proper mechanics.

Fortunately I found an great little company here in Melbourne a
couple of years ago and although it's awkward for me to get to them
they now do all the work I don't want to - which is most of it :)

FYI: six months ago they did some work on my 4WD:
Flush and replace brake fluid - labour $38, fluid $14

Check cooling system and change coolant - labour $38, coolant $52

----

At 180k a diesel is only just run in.

You *really* should replace the brake fluid every three years - take
it from someone who had the brakes fail in the (European) Pyrenees!

You *really* should replace the coolant every xxx km/years to stop it
corroding the block.

MH

---

Good advice. Plus I've run workshops with about 18 mechanics and apprentices and some, yes some, don't do the work they are supposed to. Lazy ****s or whatever, hungover, pi%%ed off with the boss/system you name it they walk among us.

We used to mark a lot of gear that went to contractors etc when specialist work required and or we didn't have the resources. Had a hugh argument with one very big company, as I refused to pay their excessive accounts and poor workmanship we discoverred

They didn't like me.

 

 

It's all so very hard & confusing  ..

 

A few years ago I decided to keep my 200,000 km 1996 4.2 EFI Patrol, spend a bit to ensure reliability & buy a new town car.  Rather than just upgrading the 4WD & keeping the 60,000km Getz.

I found a good experienced old school 4WD mechanic who had access to his employer's workshop on weekends to do 'his own work'.

I gave him a list of things that I knew wanted attention along with a brief to go over the vehicle from top to bottom & advise what extra was needed.

He did what was asked & recommended changing a few suspension bushes.   All very good and the bill only came to $1400.

But ... his work situation changed over the next couple of years & was no longer about when I decided that I wanted to change all the transmission oils before an extended trip & being too old to do it myself I went to a recommended backyard mechanic who did it for me for a good price, even showing me the oil that he changed.  Even fixed, without my asking, a poorly closing door that I hadn't been able to fix despite repeated attempts over several years.  But  .. he said that the power steering hoses that the previous guy had changed were the wrong type of hose.  Also changed the type of clamps to stop slight weeps.

Left me wondering about both of them.