Have 2012 Jayco Discovery pop top with dometic fridge which isn't running on 12 volt checked rear of fridge and there is no power there lights 12 volt sckets and pump are all fine fuses check out ok am at a loss
I'll the detective and have a look any ides thanks
Is your Jayco a new van to you, or have you had it or a while? If it is new to you, there may be a fridge switch in the circuit somewhere, which requires movement of the van for 12V to actually get to the fridge. Another thing to check would be the selector switch on the fridge. Try moving it slightly each way from the 12V position and see if it makes contact then.
Neil, Jayco vans are equipped with power supplies that provide power to the house 12 V system when on 240 V power. That PSU also provides some trickle charging to a battery that may be connected to it. When not on 240 V power the PSU allows the battery to power the van (from your message I take it you have a battery fitted.) The PSU also has a 12 V supply line that will allow the alternator in your tug to provide battery charging charging. That 12 V supply from the tug also powers your fridge for 12 V operation.
What you apparently don't know is that there is a diode in the PSU that stops the battery from powering the fridge. It is included as you should not power the fridge from the battery. The fridge element draws so much power that it will flatten your house battery is a few hours. Too much of trying to power your fridge from any battery will destroy that battery in a few weeks. That also includes the starting battery in your tug (I have seen fridges discharge the battery in a Ford Falcon to the level that the Falcon could not be started in only 30 minutes.)
To run the fridge on 12 V you need to have the tug wired with a cable from the starting battery to the trailer socket on the tow bar. Order this cable to be 8 square mm minimum. Have it wired as in the diagram below (ie the way Dometic recommend they be wired.)
Neil, I too have the same van - bought late last year & had a "wonderful job" tracing the fridge wiring from the A-frame socket to the back of the fridge. Somewhere in the A-frame it changed wires twice but I wasn't going to pull the cable out. I utilised wiring from the 12pin socket (4 HD wires) that was proven to go to the fridge & soldered these wires to an Anderson Plug to plug into the car's aux battery.
Since the van fridge draws 17A when running on 12v & my CTEC charger only puts out 20A, I cannot run my 12v Trailblazer in the car at the same time as the Dometic Fridge. I have also added a "Fridge Switch" to prevent the battery discharge when the rig is stationary.
As there are suspicions that you may have one of these switches installed, have a look for a relay or plastic box with four connections on it (+ & - in, + & - out) either in a cupboard, under a bed or as in my case, under the van within the fridge wiring. For testing purposes, it can be bypassed with a pair of suitable wires.
Further to PeterD's comment, the battery charger supplied to the van is an Australian made SETEC Mk2 & is capable of charging 20 or 35A (cannot recall which off hand). The earlier Mk1 charger (as in my past Eagle) was a 5A trickle charger. I'm led to believe that the MK2 is a more capable multiple stage charger (costs around $630!!). I would like to know how I can gain access to the charger (the Eagle was a gem, but this one is not as accessible).
Before you go jumping to conclusions about blown elements, etc, check each section either from the car or from the van carefully before going on to the next. An assistant is handy. There is a saying in the electronics field - KISS (keep it simple, stupid).
Cheers,
Warren
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Warren
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If you don't get it done today, there's always tomorrow!
