I have installed strip led's on the motorhome. I bench tested them with a 12v transformer at home and all worked perfect.
Wired them to the 12v light circuit on the MH and they came on but the IR remote does not work. Change polarity, checked ground, checked switch, checked everything but the elusive cause!!
I again connected the 240/12v power supply and they worked fantastic.
Connected a car battery straight to the LED's but again they just came on but IR would not work!!
Any ideas would e welcome and should this be solved I will shower you with gifts at happy Hour....somewhere!!
Hi Pete, thanks for your reply. Yes I have a clear line of sight and climbed a ladder to be closer. I have even tried another IR receiver and I have checked the remote batteries....even tried another remote.
This has me really miffed. I called in an auto electrician he can't figure it out either. If we connect a remote 12v stand alone battery up they still don't work. Connect the 12v power pack and they work fine.
I wonder if the power pack is providing more than 12V, or can handle more power draw without dropping voltage? Certainly seems a strange one - let us know what happens as now I'm intrigued as well :) Have you checked the voltage at the connection point under both power systems?
Pete
-- Edited by Cadpete on Wednesday 12th of April 2017 04:25:05 PM
some mobile phone camera's can pickup IR light. If you aim your phone camera at the transmitter you should see the emitter flashing on the screen of your phone. Check on a telly remote first, one that you know works -not every phone camera can do it. Worth a try, will prove the emitter is working
-- Edited by Bagmaker on Wednesday 12th of April 2017 04:28:07 PM
Ensure the infra-red receiver is not being swamped by sunlight - try it at night I guess :)
You mentioned that you "changed polarity" when the LEDs were running on the caravan. The fact that this didn't destroy them but they still continue to work suggests they have a bridge rectifier in the circuit for (apologies) "idiot proofing" :) Using a bridge in this type of product is a good idea but it does have the disadvantage that it will drop between 1V and 2V5 across its diodes. It may be that your 240V power supply is producing 13V or 14V whereas the battery will produce around 12V5 or less and if the bridge is taking 2V then whilst the LEDs may still work at 10V5 the IR circuits may not? I think it's time to do some measurements with a voltmeter on both systems.
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"I beseech you in the bowels of Christ think it possible you may be mistaken"
Oliver Cromwell, 3rd August 1650 - in a letter to the General Assembly of the Kirk of Scotland
Thank you everyone. Yes it is DC and 2 the remotes work perfectly with the power pack. The remote doesn't work when connected directly to an independent battery. LEDs light up but no remote.. Mmm this is driving me to drink! Sparkie coming back after Easter.
Ensure the infra-red receiver is not being swamped by sunlight - try it at night I guess :)
You mentioned that you "changed polarity" when the LEDs were running on the caravan. The fact that this didn't destroy them but they still continue to work suggests they have a bridge rectifier in the circuit for (apologies) "idiot proofing" :) Using a bridge in this type of product is a good idea but it does have the disadvantage that it will drop between 1V and 2V5 across its diodes. It may be that your 240V power supply is producing 13V or 14V whereas the battery will produce around 12V5 or less and if the bridge is taking 2V then whilst the LEDs may still work at 10V5 the IR circuits may not? I think it's time to do some measurements with a voltmeter on both systems.
I believe Mike is on the right track here regarding voltages, but, I think it's the other way around. Some 12v LED is strictly 12v, I think the power supply is providing the 12v DC needed but the battery is providing 12+ volts more than likely 13+ volts so you have issues. IF, this is correct, then a workaround would be an adjustable Buck/Boost Driver inline to regulate the voltage and current from the battery. Regardless of the length of cable being used, I would put the Buck/Boost Driver just before the Strip connections to avoid a voltage drop.
As Mike suggests "do some measurements with a voltmeter on both systems."
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Steve, Di & Ziggy We named our Motorhome "Roadworx" because on the road works "On The Road Again" Ford Transit with 302 Windsor V8 conversion, C4 Auto, 9 Inch Ford Diff All Lighting L.E.D., 260 Amp/h AGM, 530 Watt Solar + Kipor Backup Gen.
Yes I think that's right. Perhaps the power pack is straight 12 volts and the motorhome is 13.8 and is too high. I have just purchased a buck converter and will wire that in once received. this will give me 13.8 in and an exact 12volts out to the leds. I will keep you posted on progress ...or ....regress :)
We're on the right track hopefully. There are two types of IR receiver. One is strictly 12v and the other is 5-24 volt! I have 2 and they both are 12v. The power unit is straight 12v also. The MH is 13.8v so I have ordered 2 of the 5-24v units. I will post the results as they come to light. I also purchased a BUK converter, just in case.
Cant thank you all enough! Happy Easter to you all.
Bas
For those who are interested. The fault was with the IR controller!. Worked fine on 12v power pack but not on 13.8 from MH or 12v car battery. Why? I don't know, I changed the controller for a new unit and presto....perfect.
