hi kezngaz, as solar panels generate a lot of heat,i suggest using Selleys Armourflex [bunnings]...TI Terry would know the other brand,Terry where are ya?
I used stainless screws and sikoflex. If alloy ? I assume pop rivets can be used with sicoflex or similar . I used 30X 70mm alloy angle cut approx 150mm long . Sikoflex under and over the section on roof . Being 50mm or so off roof allows for cooling under panels .
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Saturday 29th of April 2017 10:52:03 PM
If you look down about seven threads you will see how I mounted my panel, and also an example of how Jayco mount theirs. I used Sikaflex 232 as advised in their bulletin, it was expensive at $32 per tube, and quite hard to apply. I did not however use the preparation chemicals they suggested, but cleaned the fiberglass with acetone. Remember that glued surfaces depend on surface area to get the strength, and unless there is structure for self tapping screws to fasten to, they will have minimal strength, i.e. being the strength of the material they have been screwed into.
Hi.
IF glueing to roof.
Just remember it'd be nice to have a bit of airflow under.
They DO get very hot in sun.
and Hotter the panel. Lesser the output.
Read on it.
1 1\2 -2 in Angle. Rivet to that. I use three each side.
Length to suit length of panel.
then a mix of Sika "PRO" (The original "sticks like s--t to blanket glue.)
Rivets through roof sheets (with Sika round them). with s\s screws where drill finds frame member,
for extra grip, also with sika.
Sika cable to roof and through Junc box into roof.
I also fill box with sika too, Less leaking in.
Multi panels each side.
Linked together.
One cable across roof then Both joined INSIDE sparky Junct box.
One cable down to reg. Box parked over hole in roof.
I've mix and matched panels in line and overall.
All the rg reads in Amps through cable. (50w\80w\85w)
Also 160\200w on current van.
Di watching\listening to all those young Screechers on that prog tonight.
Louder you can screech . better you are. Apparently.
Then they start that stupid bird warbling through the notes.
Sheesh.
If only they realised what they sounded like.
ME. I got an old Harry Seacombe classic on at moment.
Them Sibelius 4th after. Not many got that one.
Beautiful music through Electrostat Headphones..
They also leave cones for dead.
I've also got some old classic Scottish Bagpipe Dirges on tape too.
They take a bit of getting your head round.
I've got to finish transferring my old tapes and records.
Some of the old classic tapes are starting to stick face to face
Bummer.
Lost a few so far. 2 x Stravinsky and Mahlers final, unfinished.
Macka, what are you on about?
Only you could shoe horn 'Harry Seacombe' into a reply to a post about solar panel fixing...
I do chuckle..
Enjoy!!!
Kezngaz.
__________________
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Hi. IF glueing to roof. Just remember it'd be nice to have a bit of airflow under. They DO get very hot in sun. and Hotter the panel. Lesser the output. Read on it.
1 1\2 -2 in Angle. Rivet to that. I use three each side. Length to suit length of panel.
then a mix of Sika "PRO" (The original "sticks like s--t to blanket glue.) Rivets through roof sheets (with Sika round them). with s\s screws where drill finds frame member, for extra grip, also with sika. Sika cable to roof and through Junc box into roof. I also fill box with sika too, Less leaking in.
Multi panels each side. Linked together. One cable across roof then Both joined INSIDE sparky Junct box. One cable down to reg. Box parked over hole in roof.
I've mix and matched panels in line and overall. All the rg reads in Amps through cable. (50w\80w\85w) Also 160\200w on current van.
Di watching\listening to all those young Screechers on that prog tonight. Louder you can screech . better you are. Apparently. Then they start that stupid bird warbling through the notes. Sheesh. If only they realised what they sounded like.
ME. I got an old Harry Seacombe classic on at moment. Them Sibelius 4th after. Not many got that one.
Beautiful music through Electrostat Headphones.. They also leave cones for dead.
I've also got some old classic Scottish Bagpipe Dirges on tape too. They take a bit of getting your head round.
I've got to finish transferring my old tapes and records. Some of the old classic tapes are starting to stick face to face Bummer. Lost a few so far. 2 x Stravinsky and Mahlers final, unfinished.
Anybody got a copy?.
Macka, Are you lost and straying again? The topic is attaching solar panels to RV`s. Just put Harry and your bagpipes away for a while.
:lol: always a laugh to be had on this forum, so much better than the old grumpy men over on that other forum.
Selleys Armourflex is the replacement for Sikaflex 11FC as it does not require special primers, just a roughened clean surface each side, does not degrade in sunlight the way Sika does (yellow powdery where exposed to the sun) and can be smoothed with a finger dipped in either metho or soapy water. Dried clean up with turps, uncured clean up with metho.
The other stuff is Simson 70-03, needs a proper primer for maximum adhesion but it is incredibly strong and withstands much higher temps than Sika 11FC or Selleys Armourflex.
Mounting the panels, either 50 x 25mm x 1.6mm thick angle or 70 x 25 x 1.6 angle. Mount the long side to the panel, I use 6mm rivet nuts in the panel and 6mm stainless bolts so the panel is easily removed if needed, but your choice of fastners, mark out where the 25mm part of the angle (under the panel looks best) rough up the surface of the angle and roof, a good thick double run bead of Armourflex, put the angle onto the glue, half a doz 2 ltr milk bottle full of water on the panel each side, smooth the outer edges with a finger dipped in soapy water or metho and clean up the errors with metho on a rag, then let it cure for a day. Take the bottles off and if you really feel the need, take the panel off and fill in any gaps where the glue didn't squeeze out on the inside edge, more to make you feel better than the need to hold the panel down, you won't get that angle back off without cutting the Armourflex and the longer it's up there the tougher the glue gets as it cures all the way through. Been doing this for quite some time, the last 3 yrs using Armourflex and never had a panel come off or even look like coming off. Had a few let go between the Lexan Thermoclear and semi flexible panels but still haven't lost one of them either, but we mount those differently now anyway to get around the difference in expansion issues.
T1 Terry
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.... to secure panel framework to roof of caravan, ....
You mustn't secure the panels to the roof. There must be an air gap underneath them.
You must purchase some proper monts which are fixed to your panels and it is the mounts which you can glue to the roof.
Be very careful using these style of mounts on a caravan roof. The mounts are great but it is how well the roof sheets are attached is the problem. The mount feet will stick to the roof sheet if the correct adhesive and preparation is used but more often than not the roof sheeting on a caravan is floating and only held on by the glue each side where it slides under the moulding strip. Full length of the panel aluminium angle with sides high enough to lift the panel clear of the roof to allow airflow helps stiffen the roof and spread the load across a much larger area of the roof sheet resisting the lifting effect that will pull the roof sheet out of the edge molding creating water leaks like you won't believe.
T1 Terry
__________________
You can lead a head to knowledge but you can't make it think. One day I'll know it all, but till then, I'll keep learning.
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DAMN ... my solar panels are mounted on those mounts
Been there for six years now ... they must have been attached for over 90,000Km.
I wonder when (rather than if it seems) they are likely to either lift off, or damage or create leaks in the roof.
OH ... praps my van's roof is different to all the others.
Cheers - John
Sounds like either the mount blocks were screwed to the timber frame or the roof skin is not the floating skin type, you would have seen the results after the very first trip otherwise.
T1 Terry
__________________
You can lead a head to knowledge but you can't make it think. One day I'll know it all, but till then, I'll keep learning.
Any links to any sites or products is not an endorsement by me or do I gain any financial reward for such links
You would have gotten the voltage, just not the amps, look at voltage as the pressure in the pipe and amps (current) as the water flow. Block the hose off and the water squirts much the same out of a big hose as it does a little hose (volts), then let the water flow from the open pipe and a lot more will flow from the big hose than can flow from the small hose (current), cable conductor size has a similar effect.
T1 Terry
__________________
You can lead a head to knowledge but you can't make it think. One day I'll know it all, but till then, I'll keep learning.
Any links to any sites or products is not an endorsement by me or do I gain any financial reward for such links
Ok, so ive been shopping now so just need to put it all in and on. Thought id upgrade the cable on the back of the new panels first.......
Id have been lucky to get 1.2v with the original wire i think!!
Kezngaz.
Hi Keznga
I think that picture is worth a thousand words about what to do with the cheap panels. The panels are OK but the crappy wiring and sometimes poor position of the reg let them down. Put some decent larger wiring and the regulator near the battery and 'Bobs your uncle'
Thats 6&s wire going straight to the redarc regulator @ the battery up front.
Will post more pics as i progress.
Weathers a bit wet atm so coupla weeks i recon.
Kezngaz.
__________________
Commitment shows. Quality is what is done when no one is looking.
I think that picture is worth a thousand words about what to do with the cheap panels. The panels are OK but the crappy wiring and sometimes poor position of the reg let them down. Put some decent larger wiring and the regulator near the battery and 'Bobs your uncle' biggrin
I think that picture is worth a thousand words about what to do with the cheap panels. The panels are OK but the crappy wiring and sometimes poor position of the reg let them down. Put some decent larger wiring and the regulator near the battery and 'Bobs your uncle' biggrin
Cheers jaahn -sinp
what regulator??
Hi Bagmaker
All solar panels need a regulator, also called a controller. This unit takes the wires from the solar panel and 'controls' the power to be good for the battery and not over charge it. The panels put out too much voltage if the sun is strong and also when the battery is fully charged and does not need any more. That's a simple explanation. Better quality regulator/controllers can do a bit more than that to look after your batteries.
However if you buy a panel with a regulator/controller 'built in', like most folding panels sold, it will not be in the best position, as it should be placed near the battery to work properly, not stuck on the panels.
No panel should be used to charge a battery without a regulator/controller (except tiny ones)
Cheers jaahn
-- Edited by Jaahn on Sunday 21st of May 2017 07:06:38 PM