I have fitted a pre filter to our ute, not the same brand (probably the same , re badged). Mainly for "water in the fuel" insurance. The issue as I understand it about the filters, is that when the motor is running, a percentage of fuel is used to cool the injectors. This fuel is returned to the tank, in my case also through a heat exchanger. When fitting an extra filter, this filter can restrict the fuel used for cooling, so one has to be careful what micron the filter is. Since I am mainly interested in water separation, and sighting contaminated fuel before damage occurs, I fitted a 30 micron pre-filter, with a clear bowl for visual checks. The post filter install is for extra filtration of the fuel after the factory filter, and would need to be if it is to do anything, be of a finer micron, and therefore could restrict the low pressure fuel pumps output and effect cooling.

I also confirm that diesel fuel is used to cool the injectors on modern diesel engines as stated by Iana. I havent fitted a second filter for this reason I dont want to restrict the fuel flow. There is an alarm should the OEM filter need replacing so IMO it is better to carry a few OEM filters and change if needed. Carrying 2 or 3 spare filters should allow you to get to a service station should you have a tank of contaminated fuel. I change the fuel filter on my tug every 15000kms and each time I have changed it I have noticed that it was still clean enough. I think you will find fuel is clean and free of water at the pump although I will not fill up if a tank is unloading fuel at the station unless I have no choice. More likely to get comtamination including water in fuel from a secondary source such as your jerry cans then I use a Funnelfilter to decant fuel into the tug.

I've tried a few filter systems.
Pre\After and in replacement of.

Unless You living touring in High humidity areas.
I reckon the original filter is fine.

As above. I carry coupla spares,
and every time the car serviced I change the filter too.
Extra $30 a pop ain't gonna kill you.

I reckon my spare 20 or 40 ltrs I carry in jerry cans when bush
is more important.

I know a fellow who about 12 months ago, hooked up his new van (1st trip) and headed north inland from Perth. I don't know where he refueled, but that was the end of his annual leave trip, over $2000 later, getting his Prado and van trucked back.
Contaminated fuel.
At my last work place we had two Rangers get water in the fuel here in Perth, replacement pump and work done to clean out the tank, not much change from $1800 each.
Your choice.

Thanks everyone for your input. I have taken on board all input with interest and will now sit back and take it all in for a final outcome, hopefully a good one.



Keep Safe on the roads and out there.

Modern Toyota filters clean down to 3 microns and there are pressure sensors in the filter housing measuring the differential pressure between inlet and outlet which inform you on the dash if you need to change the filter.

Why waste money on a second or pre filter?
Just buy reputable OEM filter cartridges in the first place, they only cost about $60 each and are designed to last up to 80,000km with a specified changeover at every 60,000km service.

 

The aftermarket industry has folks buying so much sh!t you don't need.

-- Edited by Hylife on Wednesday 7th of June 2017 03:01:30 PM

In case Dougwe, has not taken action yet, this article in a caravan magazine caught my eye, and I thought it may be just what you're after. Its called "waterwatch" looks like it send a signal when water is detected. Go to www.waterindiesel.com, it maybe just what the doctor ordered.

I fitted a Lucas water trap filter to mine a long time ago. It is the type that has a clear bowl ...with a reasonably fine gauze strainer (about 70 micron I think)...and has a spinning type action as fuel moves through it. I also fitted an electric lift pump that flows fuel at 180 litres/hour at 4-6psi pressure...which does a great job at keeping positive flow at injector pump and keeping fuel cool. Only a handful of times I have had to empty a small amount of sludge out of drain tap on watertrap...mostly on the coast in smaller towns. This is done by turning the key on and having pump running while undoing trap tap...not letting any air in. I change my main fuel filter at 10000 km intervals....and have never had any crap of any sort come out of them..due mainly to having the water trap fitted. Plus the L/P makes bleeding a new filter soooo easy...lol.

Having seen first hand the damage water can do to a common rail engine....my thorts are that fitting a  primary coarse water trap filter with either a glass or warning system is an absolute must ...and compared to the cost of repairs....damn cheap as well.

 

Cheers  Keith

ST391GQ wrote:

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I fitted a Lucas water trap filter to mine a long time ago. It is the type that has a clear bowl ...with a reasonably fine gauze strainer (about 70 micron I think)...and has a spinning type action as fuel moves through it. I also fitted an electric lift pump that flows fuel at 180 litres/hour at 4-6psi pressure...which does a great job at keeping positive flow at injector pump and keeping fuel cool. Only a handful of times I have had to empty a small amount of sludge out of drain tap on watertrap...mostly on the coast in smaller towns. This is done by turning the key on and having pump running while undoing trap tap...not letting any air in. I change my main fuel filter at 10000 km intervals....and have never had any crap of any sort come out of them..due mainly to having the water trap fitted. Plus the L/P makes bleeding a new filter soooo easy...lol.

Having seen first hand the damage water can do to a common rail engine....my thorts are that fitting a  primary coarse water trap filter with either a glass or warning system is an absolute must ...and compared to the cost of repairs....damn cheap as well.

Cheers  Keith

---

 Hi

IMHO this is a good statement of what is required. I would do this if I had a new type of engine that is so sensitive to damage. I ordered optional water drain filter cartridges for my old motorhome. They have a water drain tap fitted. A glass bowl would be even better.

It is OK to say a good quality OEM filter will last 60-80000Kms but take my word for it that it will last 100 Kms or less after you buy a load of rubbish fuel with water and rust in it. It may protect the injection system or it may not !! Just the luck of the draw really. If you believe in other types of insurance then I would put this in the same category. Just in case !!

Twice in my years I have had to clean out a petrol tank in my cars when we received a bad load with water bought in the city. I would hate to see what problems a modern diesel would have given.

Jaahn 

Thanks everyone again for all your input.

I am now not sure what way to go really  as I agree with both sides  No use going to Holden to ask  as I have lost all confidence in their "Technicians" and they will probably say they don't know anyway. You don't get to speak to a 'Mechanic' any more, you only get to speak to a service 'Advisor', everything is second hand info. I will look for a 'GOOD' diesel mechanic here in down town Townsville and get their thoughts. Anyone know one?

I haven't had any problem yet and hope not to, just a thought on my part. 

The 'Flash-Lube' filter I read about in the latest edition of 'Grey Nomad Times' is a 30 micron and from what has been said so far should still be ok for the Injector's etc but I am still a little confused. Yeh I know, that's easy for me.

The other thing I have been thinking about doing is, the Collie gets a book service every 15,000km but now out of warranty so thinking of maybe every 10,000km and change the fuel filter each time, currently it gets changed every 30,000km (every second service). 

Thinking, thinking, thinking.

I have a prefilter under the tray of my Dmax , do I really need it who knows , I hope not but it's there anyway .

Google Baileys Diesel Service and Berrima Diesel , lots of info on extra filters there , also many others , YouTube have a lot of info about extra filters for CR-Diesel Motors , it might help you decide what to do .

This thread moves ever onwards.. I have a 13um filter in an FM100 unit before factory filter. If you give the tug a shake everytime you fill-up you can spot any water in the sight glass. (a cut-away photo posted in this thread shows the amount of grunge caught that would have wiped out my factory filter real fast)
If there's water in the fuel you have about a 50-100ml buffer in the pre-filter, my main filter is nominal 5um and has a water sensor as standard so it is the last line of defence.
Each fill I add about 100ml of DieselPower or Fuel Doctor additive, both are reputed to stop the growth of algae in the fuel system as well as providing some improved lubrication to the fuel pumps and injectors.
Two stoke oil does reduce injector noise however it has no benefit as an algaecide or cetane level (like octane rating in petrol) improver.
As you now have a common rail diesel a simple pre-filter may extend the life of your pump and injectors (at least $10k worth of parts) so the pre-filter would be a good investment.
Companies supply DIY kits that you can install in about 30 minutes that are manufactured for your vehicle.