Hi all,
Just had a call from my folks. When they de-coupled the rig, a bit of metal dropped out of the Hyland Hitch. We've identified it as the head of the anti-rattle bolt. Obviously getting the part will be hard now Hyland are out of business, and I understand that the thread is different to common couplings, so my sole question is:
Can you run without the anti-rattle fitted in a Hyland?
As far as I can see, there's no problem... especially as the WDH is holding everything down hard. I wouldn't even expect a rattle, but I'd like a second or third opinion before suggesting they simply keep on truckin'.
Cheers,
Steve
Hi all, Just had a call from my folks. When they de-coupled the rig, a bit of metal dropped out of the Hyland Hitch. We've identified it as the head of the anti-rattle bolt. Obviously getting the part will be hard now Hyland are out of business, and I understand that the thread is different to common couplings, so my sole question is: Can you run without the anti-rattle fitted in a Hyland? As far as I can see, there's no problem... especially as the WDH is holding everything down hard. I wouldn't even expect a rattle, but I'd like a second or third opinion before suggesting they simply keep on truckin'. Cheers, Steve
I have Hyland Hitch and have had 10 years good service BUT about 3 months ago I was avoiding a truck and went over a high obstruction WITH HD WDH FITTED and hitch disconnected despite being adjusted in accordance within manufacturers tolerances (I Have copy in SA ,,, in Darwin for another 10 days).
I think the bolt was high tensile BSW thread IF NOT then UNC, so a competent workshop could make you one out of a high tensile bolt (TAKE YOUR BROKEN ONE INTO THEM)
Hope this helps.
Cheers Baz
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Why is it so? Professor Julius Sumner Miller, a profound influence on my life, who explained science to us on TV in the 60's.
