just sittin here havin a beer thinkin well about muffin realy when oil change comes to mind . I'm thinking at what ks do people have ther service done . I do the colly every 10.000 and was thinking ok if I'm doing 100 ks @ 2750 rpm in 5 th gear or 2000 rpm in 4 th gear . That makes up a fair few revs in 4 th gear over 10.000 ks . Ye I know most cars go 15000 ks now I was just using 10.000 for a number .
On my around Aus trip . I did a few extra K between changes. Usually at 8 to 10k . Mainly due to having no place to drop off the used oil . While it was warm most the time . The extra klrs between oil changes wouldn't hurt .. diesel oil always looks dirty anyway .
Your thinking is correct dibs. I managed a Cat truck engine maintenance & repair shop from early 80's until 1997.
When fully electronic engines were the thing in the 90's, oil was changed on litres of fuel used rather than kilometers. I think it was 15,000 litres.
Trucks pulling road trains would be changed at lot less kilometers than inter city singles.
Cheers Pete
We tow with a Landcruiser 200 series 2016 TD. Changed over from 2013 Cruiser late last year. We service every 8000klm and change the fuel filter as well. Understanding that we travel the country and purchase fuel a many different places but always vortex. Our first outing this year with new cruiser was around Tassie and the West Coast. Had a service at 6000klm at Kingston. Fuel filter adds $100-$120 to the service costs but I am happy to live with this additional expense.
I drive a diesel common rail Patrol most mileage is without box on back, but I do a lot of gravel road driving. I tend to do every 10,000 with all filter including Fuel changed. Major service at 40K including hubs, total drain and flush engine gearbox, diffs, coolant brakes the lot. Coincidentally I had 80 K done yesterday the works again - Cost just over $1,300 - I check tyres and fluids weekly still clean so I don't see reason to do at 5k. Windscreen wiper twice a year. Always put small Nulon Injector cleaner once a month. (Additive to fuel tanks -half main, half sub tank). I tend to blow dust from Air filter about once a month with compressor - sometimes not driven for a week or two - We tend to use wife's Hyundai Hylander (petrol) for small running around (not as comfy as Patrol but cheaper to run).
I think that this is the last new one I'll be buying short of winning Lotto - so I tend to overdo it a bit perhaps.
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Possum; AKA:- Ali El-Aziz Mohamed Gundawiathan
Sent from my imperial66 typewriter using carrier pigeon, message sticks and smoke signals.
I tend to rotate alll 5 wheels at same time.
NOT overkill at ALL Just good servicing. I incl FULL Synthetic oils too,
Buy by 20 ltr. It's a lot cheaper.
Keep a record of EVERYTHING you put into\onto car. with receipts.
It'll put 20 to 40% more to value when selling.
I do.
Including the original receipt for it too. Day 1 onwards.
Ok my experiences it depends if you are keeping it long team if you are do your service at 10 or 15 but just change the oil and filter mid service helps to prolong the life of your tug. Safe travels
The 6.5 Chev only has 6.6 or so litre sump . Which is bigger all for a diesel . The Fuso 7.5 is 14 litres . Why I change oil reasonably frequent . Buying in 20 litre drums is much cheaper . I flush the oil cooler lines too !! Ohh yes a few litres to change the oil in Onan Generater too !!
Yep 10,000 mine as well when towing I think its just common sense to change the oil earlier...
2000 Discovery 2 Td5 Manual. Engine oil and all filters (air, fuel and both oil filters) every 10,000 and all driveline oils every 20,000. Rotate tyres every 10k. Grease all grease points ESPECIALLY the DC joint on front drive shaft (involves dropping shaft) every 10k. Served me well since day 1 and we're rapidly closing in on 400k km now.
-- Edited by markf on Sunday 1st of October 2017 12:07:48 PM
Only thing to be aware of when rotating tyres . If wheel alignment is out ? It can wear all tyres ! I check tyres wear and wheel align or check suspension when applicable . Tyre pressures also . 10,000 ks is an easy number in metric world . I have at times changed the filter on its own ..Even replaced ATF ( auto trans fluid) on the road . Need to be a little stealth in camping grounds !!
When I had my first Nissan Patrol (MQ diesel 3.3L), the recommendation was every 5,000 kms for the engine oil. I asked Valvolene about that rate & they stated that the additives in the oil had just started doing their "thing" at that distance. I suggested perhaps 7,500 & they said that should be fine. That vehicle did over 300,000 kms in 16 years in my care with no oil-related issues. I had the engine rebuilt at 350,000 mainly for head issues - the crankshaft only needed polishing!
I did the same for my GQ & one benefit of adding the gas injection, was to reduce the amount of soot getting into the sump. I had that car for 330,000 kms (12 years) before it went to a new owner in Victoria & now have the GU. The car had 270,000kms when I bought it, has now just over 400,000 (130,000 kms in less than 5 years) & also has gas injection. I keep to the 7500 kms (or thereabouts) for the engine oil changes unless I'm on a trip & doing a lot of kilometres in a short time & then it gets up to 10,000 - without any problems. All of these engines have a lot of oil in them (10L) & both the GQ & GU had(have) two oil filters that were(are) changed at the same time.
Fuel filters - I do at 15,000Km unless I see stuff in the catchment bowl, gear train at 50-60,000 kms, air filter - as required but checked at every 10,000 kms (both the MQ & GQ had pre & main filters on them); tyres rotated & balanced every 8-10,000 km & wheel alignment every 12 months (or earlier if required).
Graeme - re your statement "Need to be a little stealth in camping grounds" - I had a thermostat jam at Bathurst when I had the GQ, made it to Mudgee carefully & driving on the temp gauge. I asked the manager of the caravan park if he'd mind if I changed it on site. Was told to take it down the back, did so & collected the coolant without spilling any. He also advised me of a good mechanic who could assist in another matter. Mudgee is a special place for us - besides having the Blue Wren Winery!
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Warren
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If you don't get it done today, there's always tomorrow!
Most manufactures will mention that if you are, driving in dusty places/frequently stop and start/towing etc, then you should shorten your maintenance schedule, or words to that effect
My vehicle a 2006 Fiat Ducato, has a 30,000 kilometre maintenance schedule
The engine oil recommended by the manufacturer, (Selana), is not an off the shelf item
I use the equivalent which is full synthetic
My long distance trips are usually between 8,000 to 18,000 kilometres
I do my services, plus oil and filter changes, prior to every long distance road trip
In the last three years I have travelled 50,000 kilometres, and changed the oil and filter, five times
For peace of mind, I add Nulon oil additive, to the engine oil change
I can only say that I have been using engine oil additive, for more than forty years, and have never had bottom end, engine problems
I'd like to think that the extra money spent over the yrs on additives.
Full Synth oils etc etc.
Help to increase longevity and reliability of my rigs. OK they do.
BUT in all reality. Being in trade and running\Maint a lot of heavy machinery drive units. over decades.
I KNOW.
THE regularity of service and lack of thrashing is what does it.
I just feel better watching MY oil choices going in there is all.
Same as your additives.
It's YOUR regularity NOT the Additive that does it mate. Sorry.
The BEST oil you can put in any engine bar these high tech narrow oilway things. is a GOOD quality 30 grade.
More machinery than I care to think about, has run 24\7\365 for (Normally 4 yrs between rebuilds). Without a hiccup.
And the next dragline I got into with a 40\50 yr old engine in there. STILL ticking over nicely on 12\14hr shifts at 7\8ths of governor setting. Wouldn't be the first.
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 3rd of October 2017 11:11:55 PM
