If you have them side by side, camera pencil and paper along with a measuring tape. Take a lot of pictures and measurements, then you will know for sure.
I reckon that it will be an easy swap, engine mounts should be the same, gearbox mount possiblely different, maybe mods becase of turbo. Wont be ECU as to earlier model
cheers
blaze
I would not think an engine of that age would have an ECU (electronic control unit), I dont know the engine but would have thought it would have a mechanical inline fuel injector pump.
cheers
blaze
No ECU on either of those engines. I would also think the gearbox would be very similar and so will the mounts. But as blase said park the two together and just look and take pictures with your phone. If in doubt just look at each item on one and then on the other. then go to the next item etc. Take pics of the gear linkages before you disconnect them.
There will be some difference in the tail shaft length because one does not have the extra splitter box and I seem to remember the rear mount cross member had two positions for that. Just swap the shafts over. Possibly the diffs are different size and the rear unis but you just do what you need to.
Good luck Jaahn
-- Edited by Jaahn on Thursday 30th of July 2020 08:05:40 PM
Thanks guys!
I'm pretty confident it shouldn't be too hard to swap. I have a diesel mechanic / truck place going to look at doing the job for me. I've been building for a year now and I just want this thing on the road.
I'm also wondering what diffs the buses have as I've heard of highway and city diffs. I got told my original black bus had a highway diff. Have no clue of what the just aquired red turbo bus has.
But I guess whatever works and fits will have to be the go.
A highway diff would be better though.
Just trying to figure a few things out within the next few weeks before the swap happens.
Cheers guys
All those Japanese busses and vans have a factory information plate on them to show exactly what they had when they were built and the date. It shows the chassie type and number and the engine type and number and information on the transmision type and diff type, paint and interior level and the build factory. Find those pates, often on the drivers seat base, or on the drivers door frame, or the side door area. This information can be 'decoded' by looking on the internet. This information should be recorded and used for spare parts anyway, but if the bus has been modified then you need to record that also.
Note the factory information plate is additional to the VIN plate put on for Australian registration in later years. The VIN plate or sticker has none of that information is for identity only.
Jaahn
Here is an example !
-- Edited by Jaahn on Friday 31st of July 2020 08:36:08 AM
Those are the information plates. Your original bus has an ED33 motor and a HH65 diff which is around 6.5/1 ratio. The parts bus has a FD33 motor with a HJ48 diiff which is around 4.8/1 ratio.
I have not exactly decoded the diff numbers as information is hard to find but certainly the numbers show the approximate ratios I have said. The 6.5 is a low city ratio and 4.8 is a high highway ratio. That is a big jdifference between the ratios but I guess the parts bus worked OK. You can change down gears on the hills. BUT I believe the different letters mean the diff carrier is a different size and the HJ48 is a larger diff center, so will not interchange with the HH65. You would have to swap the rear axle complete to change ratios. I would leave it there for the time being and see how it drives and you can change it later if you want to. That is my opinion.
Note your new engine is an FD33 on the plate and was not originally fitted with a turbo. They are direct injection and will give better fuel economy too. However note that these buses are 30+ years old and the original engine (or diff) may have been changed so you should double check the numbers etc. Might have been changed just like you are doing now ! The information plate "rivets" look dodgey on yours anyway ?
Turn the wheels and could shaft rotation ? Youll get a rough idea on
Ratios . Keep in mind wheel diameter if its been changed ? Including tyre aspect ratio . Would have thought 4.00 to 4.5 would be good ratio . Depending on gear box top gear etc . At times on hills you
just gotta sit back relax at 40 kph . What I keep thinking at times or we just kill all our engines etc . Its a journey not a race . Keep telling myself ! Lol
How much extra effort for a mechanic to also just swap the diff and rear axle?
It may just be worth swapping the whole engine / drivetrain and rear axle also.
Highway diff vs city diff? With turbo engine?
Worth the swap in diffs / rear axle? Or not much gain for the extra money / effort?
Cheers
Mick
Finally got a quote for a diesel mechanic to swap over engine, transmission and rear axle.
He said expect between 3 to 4k if no major issues with swap over.
I've got new turbo and intercooler to fit.
Just need to get intercooling piping to suit and turbo install kit.
Is there anything else besides a good service on the engine I should consider?
Maybe new clutch while it's all getting done?
Mick
Where do you stop ? I guess timing chain, front, rear main seals ? Or any gaskets that may leak ? Frost ( welsh) plugs ? Anything thats a pain while engine is installed ? Yes clutch ? Atleast check .
Where do you stop ? I guess timing chain, front, rear main seals ? Or any gaskets that may leak ? Frost ( welsh) plugs ? Anything that's a pain while engine is installed ? Yes clutch ? Atleast check .
Yes exactly !! I guess you would look over the engine to see what is not so good and do that. Estimate if the engine has done a lot or a little work so that gives you an idea how much more to look for. I would have the injectors checked and reset and would split the gearbox and engine and look at the clutch and change the rear crank seal.
