Is the purpose of reducing the tyre pressure on a touring van when driving on gravel or dirt roads so you can continue driving at 80-100 km/h or do you reduce the tyre pressure and then reduce your speed to 40-60 km/h anyway?
Is the purpose of reducing the tyre pressure on a touring van when driving on gravel or dirt roads so you can continue driving at 80-100 km/h or do you reduce the tyre pressure and then reduce your speed to 40-60 km/h anyway?
Both -- and you cannot put a figure on the Speed .... drive according to the conditions - even if it means 5 kph (better 60mins. "late" than 1 week - after many dollars and waiting for help and parts .) KB
Thanks KJB. I've always dropped my speed on dirt roads even without the van. I've never let tyres down even with my previous camper van, mainly because I had never heard of the concept and I've never had a problem. So far, my new van has not been on dirt roads though it will very soon so just want to be prepared.
I've driven thousands of km on gravel roads, especially if they are corrugated and my rule of thumb is based on a nominal speed of 100kmph.
Drop the pressure to a certain % of nominal AND drop the speed by the same %.
Saves rattling both you and the vehicle around and does no harm to the tyres.
Even done it with duallies but can't drop pressure as much to avoid excessive kissing of the tyres
Michelin have technical bulletins giving pressures and speeds for various terrains
Previous owner of the PINK ROADHOUSE was an advocate and had info on his Web site
We did the whole of the canning stock route at 50kmph Max and half the normal pressure.
The other useful trick is to ignore placard pressures and instead weigh each axle and consult the tyre manufacturer's load/pressure tables. Bound to be running with too much pressure and getting it right means the tyres get to work as part of the suspension instead of against it
I will get my vested interest out the way first. I can pump up each tyre from 20 to 35psi in 28 seconds, have an air tank, after cooler, refrigerated condenser, moisture trap so don't have to stuff around in the heat, dust & flies.
Tyres, as said above are part of the suspension. Dropping pressure on crap roads reduces the stresses on the vehicle.
It also makes it more comfortable for you, so less stress on you.
The tyres being less inflated will flex more & generate more heat. So drive slower.
A lower tyre pressure will reduce the work the shocks have to do a whisker. But they are working extremely hard on a corrugated roads so give them a break every so often & you will have a break by default.
Lower pressure on rock strewn crap roads, less likely to get a puncture.
When you get back on sealed road pump them up.
Get TPMS if you don't have it, it will pay for itself with the first flat tyre more than likely not being destroyed.
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Thanks for the tips Whenarewethere. I have TPMS on all eight tyres and I also have a type puncture kit in case. It too would have paid for itself if I had bought it some years ago.
Slow down a few klrs . The deflection of tyre generates heat . To a point the tread can delaminate . Or damage tyre that may fail latter ! So be aware !!! Love my speed but in the correct conditions !!
It too would have paid for itself if I had bought it some years ago.
Same here!
But it has saved us 4 more tyres in the meantime.
It's a lot of peace of mind in the outback keeping your cards up your sleeve.
The jury is still out for me regarding TPMS. After installing mine on the van I had 2 valve stems develop significant cracking (a few weeks apart on a long trip) producing slow leaks spotted when parked up for a while on each occasion. The tyres are about 6 years old and not stored in the sun. All good since replacing the valve stems. Also had a blow out (delamination) crossing the Nullabor with the TPMS on and working but not showing any change in pressure or temperature. I understand the benefits of TPMS but from my experiences not perfect.