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Post Info TOPIC: Unraveling Spaghetti


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Unraveling Spaghetti


I recently purchased a second hand van and found this mess at the batteries.  obviously it needs fixing, what would the best solution (bus bars etc)  

As for identifying wires, is it as easy as turning everything on, remove a wire and see what is now not working?

 

 



-- Edited by shakey55 on Tuesday 7th of June 2022 05:54:09 AM

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shakey55


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Does not look to be many fuses if any.

I would do as you suggest..... (As for identifying wires, is it as easy as turning everything on, remove a wire and see what is now not working?)

Identify the wire, tag it and when all identified connect in a fuse box similar to below. I would mount the fuse book on the back wall of the boot, above the battery.


www.ebay.com.au/itm/154727897247

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I would be getting somebody who knows what they are doing....a 12v sparky!



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Monty. RV Dealer.



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montie wrote:

I would be getting somebody who knows what they are doing....a 12v sparky!


 Yes, I hope the new owner OP knows a bit about 12 V wiring and systems.

It appears that the one who contributed to that mess had little idea.

12 V while considered *safe* may still cause a fire.



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Ivan 01 wrote:
12 V while considered *safe* may still cause a fire.

And especially so at the currents a decent size battery can produce!



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Install a fused terminal block



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A DC clamp meter.



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Just brilliant execution of electrical skills, all those positive unfused wires floating around an earthed metal box waiting for a few corrugations to wear through the wires.

 

 

 



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red wire must be cheaper

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Yes Atleast fit a breaker on each one . A large cable to earth bolt . Then all the earth (- ) to that as bonding . So one connection
At battery I guess theres a fuse box inside . In any case count the circuits ? Then go buy a fuse box or board with 2 extra . .

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And don't you just love neat well crimped cables into lugs.

Edited the post. Way to messy to comment with surety. 



-- Edited by Corndoggy on Wednesday 8th of June 2022 09:26:49 PM

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My caravan has a similar nest of wires in the two battery boxes and also has a bank of fuses mounted right next to the battery boxes making it impossible to replace a fuse without taking out the battery and box!?! I am thinking of replacing the fuse bank with a set of labelled circuit breakers accessible from outside the van and install some bus bars, or get everything redone by a 12v sparky!



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Derek Barnes


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Corndoggy wrote:

And don't you just love neat well crimped cables into lugs.

Edited the post. Way to messy to comment with surety. 


 Hi Cornel. Just noticed your 6 edits so thought you might like to know that you can delete all the 'edits' when you make a new one, thus ending up with only one edit instead of several. Cheers



-- Edited by yobarr on Wednesday 8th of June 2022 04:07:31 PM

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v



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Hi 

These bus bars are available cheaply. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/274489479604?hash=item3fe8d911b4:g:7NoAAOSwrVRf7llZ

Or with a cover. Black and/or red. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/354050695618?hash=item526f10e1c2:g:kWAAAOSwHHtfvLDTImage 1 - Earth / Neutral Bar Brass Connector TerminalImage 1 - 100A Bus Bar Box Heavy-Duty Power Distribution Block 4*M6 Terminal Studs

and a fuse system. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/393990294803?hash=item5bbba6cd13:g:Z9QAAOSwsNBiMcOR&frcectupt=true

Image 1 - 2X 6 Way Blade Fuse Box Block Holder Circuit Standard for 12V 24V Truck MarineImage 1 - 12V/32V 6 Way Panel Blade Fuse Box Block Holder for Car Auto Power Distribution

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/393990294803?hash=item5bbba6cd13:g:Z9QAAOSwsNBiMcOR&frcectupt=true

NOTE I am not recommending these particular items, just showing you what you can find if you look around. Anything would be an improvement if you do it slowly and one circuit at a time.

Good luck jaahn  



-- Edited by Jaahn on Wednesday 8th of June 2022 04:47:35 PM



-- Edited by Jaahn on Wednesday 8th of June 2022 11:38:22 PM

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dogbox wrote:

red wire must be cheaper


 Haha this reminds me of a project of mine from a few years ago.

I was wiring a 12 v motor to drive a mill and I needed either some 2 core black and red or approx 1 metre each of black and red in 3mm.

I went to Supacrap and they only had red wire in 2mm.

Maybe the previous owner bought his wire at Supacrap.



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Run a 50 or so breaker on 25mm sq cable then run fuses or breakers off that inside van ? There is no need to have every circuit in parallel to battery !! Tidies wires up big time . Get some crinkle type slide on conduit . Besides its a pain to check if its raining or at night !! Our fuse cabinet is above the fridge . ., ideal as the vent allows cables through from solar , battery are under !

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I repeat my advice...get somebody who knows what they are doing...A 12v sparky!

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Thanks Yobarr.

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I think I may have used the other half of the spool of red wire!

63354_092857.jpg

 

 



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Whenarewethere wrote:

I think I may have used the other half of the spool of red wire!

63354_092857.jpg

 

 


 biggrin biggrin biggrin



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montie wrote:

I repeat my advice...get somebody who knows what they are doing...A 12v sparky!


 I think I have the ability to complete myself.  What Id like are comments on is what is the best way to identify each and every cable connected to batteries. Thanks



-- Edited by shakey55 on Friday 10th of June 2022 05:54:08 AM

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shakey55


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shakey55 wrote:
 wrote:montie

I repeat my advice...get somebody who knows what they are doing...A 12v sparky!


 I think I have the ability to complete myself.  What Id like are comments on is what is the best way to identify each and every cable connected to batteries. Thanks


 I'm sure you do, this is not rocket science.

There is no simple way to identify the cables, you will have to disconnect, say, two cables and see what doesn't work then establish which of the two does what. You could also use an ohm metre and long lead but that's probably more awkward.

I suggest you buy some numbered cable markets (Middys ?) number each cable as it is identified and make a written index of what does what and the fuse size required.



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Either disconnect the cables & check one by one or use a DC clamp meter to check each cable turning one item on at a time.



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shakey55 wrote:
montie wrote:

I repeat my advice...get somebody who knows what they are doing...A 12v sparky!


 I think I have the ability to complete myself.  What Id like are comments on is what is the best way to identify each and every cable connected to batteries. Thanks



-- Edited by shakey55 on Friday 10th of June 2022 05:54:08 AM


Shakey,

You could remove that entire mess and then rewire each component as required. 
Same but different.

A Dymo labeller or similar could be utilised on a fuse board.

In either case a mistake can cause you more loss that the price of a 12v sparky tradesman.

What will be the new colour scheme? biggrin

We would like pics to see the new job when finished.



-- Edited by Clarky 1 on Friday 10th of June 2022 08:54:02 AM

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Mike Harding wrote:
shakey55 wrote:
 wrote:montie

I repeat my advice...get somebody who knows what they are doing...A 12v sparky!


 I think I have the ability to complete myself.  What Id like are comments on is what is the best way to identify each and every cable connected to batteries. Thanks


 I'm sure you do, this is not rocket science.

There is no simple way to identify the cables, you will have to disconnect, say, two cables and see what doesn't work then establish which of the two does what. You could also use an ohm metre and long lead but that's probably more awkward.

I suggest you buy some numbered cable markets (Middys ?) number each cable as it is identified and make a written index of what does what and the fuse size required.


 Bread bag Tags and a Permanent marker is a good quick temporary way to mark cables, small coloured cable ties are also good to help identify cables  -zip up tight and cut the tail off................KB



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Identify & label the wires first. Then you will build up a picture of what is going on. Draw up a wiring diagram, saves redoing things over & over. A bit of rerouting & cable management might solve most of the mess. Then you don't have to do too much rewiring.

 

This is for a model railway, I made everything modular so if something fails I can easily replace it. A lot of upfront work planning but long term ease.

DSC_0667_114605.jpg

 

The best thing is if you fix the mess yourself you will have a mental picture of your network. If things go wrong when remote you very easily solve the problem.

 

If you get a third party to fix the mess you will be none the wiser. There are people in remote areas I have given fuses to who simply have had no idea.



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Whenarewethere wrote:

Either disconnect the cables & check one by one or use a DC clamp meter to check each cable turning one item on at a time.


 Now theres a good thought thank you



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shakey55


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I would be lost without my DC clamp meter. My Kyoritsu 2046R only goes down to 0.1 amps resolution, 600 amps maximum is enough for most of us. A work around for milliamps is to loop the cable X numbers or times & divide by same number for more accurate figure, this way I measured my dashcams milliamps for back up battery requirements for example.

 

The car's starter motor 238 amps or my triple compressor setup for the tyres or cleaning the car with air/water gun up to 90 amps. Solar cell data & fridge load design has been invaluable.

 

5599717142533104263.jpg

 



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