Hi all. I stopped using my Edecoa 2500w pure sine wave inverter to charge my Oralb toothbrush after it blew the charger on two. Today I used the inverter on my 200w slow cooker regrettably coz it's blown the electronics board on that too. The element and fuse that's on the board test ok. Anyone know of an inverter that doesn't damage the electronics of such items?
Cheers Tony
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Hi Dorian. Thanks for your reply. I've attached a screen shot of what I bought in 2017. Advertised as pure sine wave. There's no visible damage to the PCB. cheers Tony
In another post you mentioned being an electronics technician so I suggest you measure its 240V output with your DMM set to AC. If it's sine wave it should read 240V give or take, if it's square wave it'll read something quite different, guessing, maybe 150V. As always, don't stick your pinkies in bad places.
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Thanks again guys. Yeah I did measure the 240v going into the slow cooker PCB. I'd need an oscilloscope to have a look at the inverter output. Also, there's no visible signs of damage to the slow cooker PCB so suspect something from silicon Valley has buggered up.
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Yeah I did measure the 240v going into the slow cooker PCB.
Did you measure it on your DMM set to AC? If so what was the reading?
You don't need a 'scope to do this, and in any event be very cautious of connecting a scope to 240V most scopes are not speced for direct mains connection, your DMM expects a sine wave and performs RMS calculations so if you feed it a square wave the numbers will be incorrect and you'll get a reading way out from 240V.
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"I beseech you in the bowels of Christ think it possible you may be mistaken"
Oliver Cromwell, 3rd August 1650 - in a letter to the General Assembly of the Kirk of Scotland
Hi all. I stopped using my Edecoa 2500w pure sine wave inverter to charge my Oralb toothbrush after it blew the charger on two. Today I used the inverter on my 200w slow cooker regrettably coz it's blown the electronics board on that too. The element and fuse that's on the board test ok. Anyone know of an inverter that doesn't damage the electronics of such items?
Cheers Tony
I have a Giandel 3000/6000 inverter and have never had an issue except that they are not as expensive now as when I bought mine. I found some good reviews before i purchased.
It also has a remote switch so that you can turn it off remotely so that it doesnt use power in standby.
I have an old version of this UPS plus additional battery units. Ok I am comparing a UPS to an inverter without its only battery. But really 2700 watts of quality power costs a "touch" more the $300
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I would think that most inverters would have a surge rating to allow them to accommodate inductive loads such as electric motors. These draw substantial currents during starting.
As for the weights of the Victron inverters, my question would be, what is inside an expensive inverter?
I can see that this 2400W / 20kg unit has a large toroidal transformer:
I suspect that the cheaper inverters may step up the battery voltage via a high frequency ferrite transformer, and then produce a pseudo-sinusoidal output by pulse-width-modulating the output voltage via MOSFET choppers and a couple of series connected inductors.
I have pulled my one apart a few times to clean out the dust, disconnecting the battery first. It has a very big transformer in it plus quite a bit of other stuff & 3 80mm fans.
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Yeah I did measure the 240v going into the slow cooker PCB.
Did you measure it on your DMM set to AC? If so what was the reading?
, and in any event be very cautious of connecting a scope to 240V most scopes are not speced for direct mains connection,
Yep. 240v ac.
Haha...I connected an earthed scope to a live TV chassis a few times in my career as a TV engineer in UK. Well...engineer in UK but TV serviceman here in Oz. Always kept one arm behind my back and no rings on fingers (:
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Did you measure it on your DMM set to AC? If so what was the reading?
Yep. 240v ac.
Interesting, Maybe under no load it is a square wave and fools the meter? These inverters are usually triangular waves.
As for oscilloscopes; I always remove the earth from oscilloscopes at the mains plug although nowadays most scopes are digital and powered from a plug pack so the issue doesn't arise however what I really meant is that the input spec of most scopes is not adequate for the 340V mains peak.
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Dorian: I believe you are correct in your description of inverters.
My Victron 500W synthesizes a sine wave at low voltage and subsequently transforms it to 240V whereas the cheaper units use a high frequency chopper and wave shape afterwards.
The Victron approach is much better as it keeps semiconductors away from the higher voltage and ensures they are not subject to such things as mains level inductive spikes but it does make the inverter much more expensive and heaver but I suspect the cheaper approach will have a hard time meeting EMC emissions requirements which is why most of the cheap Chinese simply don't bother to even try.
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I can see that this 2400W / 20kg unit has a large toroidal transformer: 06:02:55 AM
In my UPS the 6 batteries are in series, so 72 volts DC. So even though the thing weights a tonne, I suppose it's easier starting at 72 volts rather than from 12 volts. At least the extra battery boxes wiring can be thinner, even though these cables are surprisingly heavy.
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I have also removed the earth at the mains plug on my Tektronix scopes and also the try to remember that the scope frame is floating.
If you are doing general electronics development it's a sensible thing to do although occasionally, for noise purposes, I have reconnected it. On one scope I split the earth lead at the mains plug and affixed a male/female spade connector so I could easily earth it or not.
And yes, it's easy to forget the scope is floating and if your mind is on other things and to attach the line side to said scope with embarrassing results for your fingers or, perhaps, signal generators et al :)
I did quite a lot of work on HV testing systems and a qualified rubber mat brought some peace of mind nevertheless I have never forgotten what my tutor of 45 years past told me; "A competent electrical/electronics/HV engineer always works with one hand in his pocket... you never quite know what he's doing with it though...." :)
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Dorian: Thanks for the info, I'll take a look.
__________________
"I beseech you in the bowels of Christ think it possible you may be mistaken"
Oliver Cromwell, 3rd August 1650 - in a letter to the General Assembly of the Kirk of Scotland
I have also removed the earth at the mains plug on my Tektronix scopes and also the try to remember that the scope frame is floating.
If you are doing general electronics development it's a sensible thing to do although occasionally, for noise purposes, I have reconnected it. On one scope I split the earth lead at the mains plug and affixed a male/female spade connector so I could easily earth it or not.
And yes, it's easy to forget the scope is floating and if your mind is on other things and to attach the line side to said scope with embarrassing results for your fingers or, perhaps, signal generators et al :)
I did quite a lot of work on HV testing systems and a qualified rubber mat brought some peace of mind nevertheless I have never forgotten what my tutor of 45 years past told me; "A competent electrical/electronics/HV engineer always works with one hand in his pocket... you never quite know what he's doing with it though...." :)
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Dorian: Thanks for the info, I'll take a look.
I have used the BWD 880 power oscilloscope. A 4 channel scope designed mains power analysis. Used it on theatre light controllers. Or use a 240 to 240 isolation transformer. Either plug the scope our the equipment into it. And nowadays with battery powered portable oscilloscopes there is no issue.
Deliberately removing the earth protection is a no-no.