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Post Info TOPIC: Continual repeating interference on 12V caravan TV
con590


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Continual repeating interference on 12V caravan TV
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Hi,

There is a continual dot-sounding interference on the vans TV and at the same time, the inner fridge light blinks on and off continually. The fridge is not the problem as I turned it off but the poor wTV signal continued. I have been able to stop the interference by pushing in the buttons of the solar panel meter, but when released the static starts again. So Im thinking that the solar panel circuit is interfering with the TV signal and the fridge light. That means the solar panels are not producing smooth power. But the led roof lights do not flicker. Any suggestions



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mike tenney
Whenarewethere


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Did you actually unplug the fridge.

 

Solar panels do produce smooth power. Will be gradually less smooth in & out of clouds, but it will be smooth.

 

If you are using an inverter is it pure sine wave. Which model is it.

 

Which solar controller are you using.

 

My guess with the little information is that it is cheap solar controller.



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Bobdown


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Hi con590, I'll bet it's the LED's lights.

Try turning on the TV during the day or turn the lights off, usually one at a time to isolate the problem one.

In my case it was a touch LED over the sink and the 2 outside lights, cheap quality ones that were replaced by better ones under warranty.

Google .......LED lights causing interference to TV and a heap of answers come up, as below.

Cheers Bob

 

 

TV interference

TV interference from LEDs is an issue worldwide. It is mostly caused by LEDs in the same home (or RV) as the TV.

This can be checked by turning them off. Another indicator of TV interference from LEDs is good daytime reception until lights are turned on.

In the worst cases, TV reception is unwatchable, or not even obtainable.

 

 

 



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con590


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Thanks everyone for your replies. I did disconnect the battery from the solar controller/meter and the 'static' stopped. Don't know enough about the workings of a solar controller but they are cheap to replace. Will let you know the outcome. Regards. Mike T

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Mike Harding


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con590 wrote:

Don't know enough about the workings of a solar controller but they are cheap to replace.

Good ones are not cheap.

I suggest you buy one which is complement with the standard IEC61000-6-3.



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dorian


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Is the controller located at the panel or at the battery? I would locate it as close to the battery as possible. Ideally the controller should be sensing the battery voltage, excluding the voltage drop in the cable.

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yobarr


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Mike Harding wrote:
con590 wrote:

Don't know enough about the workings of a solar controller but they are cheap to replace.  

Good ones are not cheap.  

I suggest you buy one which is complement with the standard IEC61000-6-3.

 As Mike has pointed out, GOOD Solar controllers are NOT cheap.

For many years I have been a believer in You get what you pay for.

After many year selling Solar systems I can assure you that Solar equipment is  a product where you Do NOT buy El Cheapo.

You'll regret it. Cheers

 



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Bobdown


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con590 wrote:

Thanks everyone for your replies. I did disconnect the battery from the solar controller/meter and the 'static' stopped. Don't know enough about the workings of a solar controller but they are cheap to replace. Will let you know the outcome. Regards. Mike T

 Did you try the LED lights individually Mike? As WAWT said, the solar and controller do produce smooth power, and the lights would go thru the controller and you might be getting a false reading and thinking it's the panel.

Cheers Bob



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dorian


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Before disparaging the controller, I would examine the installation. I know it's not the same thing, but many years ago I retrofitted an electronic alternator regulator to an old Chrysler. The original mechanical regulator worked fine. After swapping it out, the new regulator worked, but there was a low frequency oscillation in the charging circuit which caused the headlights to flicker. Actually, it was more like flashing.

The reason was that the regulator was mounted on the firewall rather than on the alternator. There were other problems, but I recall resolving this particular problem with a relay controlled by the ignition switch. This allowed the regulator to sense the appropriate voltage without a voltage drop. I believe this voltage drop was responsible for the oscillation. I'm not completely certain, though.

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con590


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Thanks again one and all. My solar panels connect directly to the solar controller near the battery which then connects directly to the battery for trickle charging (polarity and connections correctly done). Van leds run off the battery and not the solar regulator, even though there is an unused connection point on the controller. Has been working for over two years without issue. So I will replace the controller, avoiding the 'cheapies' as advised. Thanks. Mike T

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