If you have an access door to back of your fridge, check for dust, spider webs, wasp nests, etc. (Don't spray insecticide) - Use light air to blow clean (as vacuum cleaner exhaust).
As Craig said; run stove & water heater to purge lines and fill with clean gas. This will also determine if Regulator is blocked.
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Possum; AKA:- Ali El-Aziz Mohamed Gundawiathan
Sent from my imperial66 typewriter using carrier pigeon, message sticks and smoke signals.
I have had both gas valves that are fitted on the bottles fail and not let the gas to the appliance on my Silverline. They are supposed to shut down if there is a gas leak
I had to take one off the bottle to get the stove and water heater going.
The other proved faulty after a short time and I had them replaced.
I had an issue with my dometic fridge on gas, it was a partically blocked jet in the gas inlet on the fridge. I suggest that you remove the jet and inspect it to make sure it is not a blockage. It is easy to access from the back of the fridge through the air inlet vent and it is not had to do
Does this work by pressing a button to override the safety cutout, and while doing so, pressing another button to activate the igniter? That's the way mine works.
After being disconnected for some time, with air now in the lines it takes maybe a minute with the override button pressed in for the gas to arrive at the burner. I hold mine in and repeatedly push the iginiter button (many more than 12 times).
Does this work by pressing a button to override the safety cutout, and while doing so, pressing another button to activate the igniter? That's the way mine works.
After being disconnected for some time, with air now in the lines it takes maybe a minute with the override button pressed in for the gas to arrive at the burner. I hold mine in and repeatedly push the iginiter button (many more than 12 times).
The cut out protection valves that were fitted to my van from new were proved to be both faulty.
We tried the button pushing come swearing at it method but the only way I could get the stove and the HWS to work was to remove the valve.
It was easy as the gas hose just connected to the bottle.
Jayco had hesitation to replace the Chinese rubbish probably with much of the same although it all seems to be working now.
Their hesitation was explained that I had filled the bottle with dodgy gas. No, not the problem when the service guy had to eat his humble pie when it was easily shown that the gas I had in the bottles was the very gas that Jayco filled them with at the factory.
Ah we all must admire the quality of the parts our Australian manufacturers are stuck with.
Pleased to report problem solved!
Opened the lower external access vent and water was dripping off everything!
The rooftop vent was acting like a funnel pouring water down the back of the fridge.
I suspect the vent screws were overtightened on manufacture stripping out the 3mm of plastic the screws bite into.
Half the 18 odd screws just spun, so were doing nothing to secure the vent.
It's a big vent so wind and vibration pulled the plastic vent base away from the sealant, allowing water in.
Anyway, resealed the vent, fitted bigger screws, mopped up the water, aimed a fan heater at the cavity for a few hours, checked and cleaned corroded electrical connections.
(All gas and power supplies disconnected)
After 3 tries to allow the gas to come through, BINGO! It fired up.
Luckily, no damage to electronic module or plywood cabinetry.
Quite a process, but very glad I didn't have to pay $140/hr to fix it.
Good news stasys50, That is something I haven't seen before, I've seen leaks in vents but no to the extent of fouling the fridge. The advent of Silicon RTV being used in caravans has caused innumerable problems with water ingress.
__________________
Possum; AKA:- Ali El-Aziz Mohamed Gundawiathan
Sent from my imperial66 typewriter using carrier pigeon, message sticks and smoke signals.
