We have an older model Thetford Cassette Toilet, C402
The red light which lets us know the cassette is nearing full is not operating.
I did contact Thetford but became even more confused.
They did however instruct me to take a magnet and hold it over the reed switch, if there is no pull then the problem with the light is the reed switch.
I have looked online and the reed switch for this model does not appear to have anyway of connecting the red wires.
I tried to gently pull the two red wires from the old switch, didn't budge.
I have exhausted my search of You Tube and Google, absolutely nothing on replacing this reed switch of this model.
Maybe I am missing something that is hopefully obvious to you more experienced people.
If I had to cut and rejoin the two red wires it would be rather tricky given the area to work in; that's if you can get a red switch with two red wires connected to it.
I have included two photos of the C402 reed switch.
Our now 14 year old C400 is in daily use. I have never seen any LED operate. We don't ever let is get that full. The tilt switch may or may not work? Never tested. I must check one day.
Silly question but have you ensured that the "Float" inside canister is not jammed in down position.
I believe there is a blade fuse where red wires are, change that fuse even if it looks OK. Give area a liberal dosing of WD40 to eliminate any moisture in fuse aperture.
As Nomadz said empty often, don't wait until "Full" and Warning light actuated.
__________________
Possum; AKA:- Ali El-Aziz Mohamed Gundawiathan
Sent from my imperial66 typewriter using carrier pigeon, message sticks and smoke signals.
As has been mentioned previously, I never let the cassette fill to the stage where the light might come on. But I must admit that late one night several years ago I was advised that there was a strange light on the toilet.
About 15 years ago when I used to rely on the light, it failed. In my case i think that it was because I was too vigorous in shaking the cassette when cleaning after emptying it. The float pendulum had 'jumped' over a ridge of plastic that was supposed to restrict its movement thus preventing its operation. To fix it I just gently bent the arm a bit & levered it back into the correct position. Perhaps it is still working.
Is it not possible to cut the wires further back at an accessible point and solder (or crimp join) & shrink wrap longer pieces to make it easier to refit the new switch? Often switches come without wires connected. In these cases connection is made by just removing the insulation & pushing the bare wire into the hole where a couple of sharp scissor like fingers grab it. If the switch comes with wires already connected is it possible just to lengthen them for connection at a more accessible point in the wiring harness?
That was one of the issues I have, the supposed replacement reed switch has no wires connected.
The original one has two red wires as shown in the photo, but they don't appear to come out, maybe they are siezed/rusted in there.
There were a couple of places where you can buy the reed switch but whoever is answering my question re the red wires never addresses this issue just confirming its the right switch.
As someone person mentioned earlier, spray with WD40, spray the fuse(have replaced with a new one) and it may loosen up the red wiring which may or may not come out.
That was one of the issues I have, the supposed replacement reed switch has no wires connected.
The original one has two red wires as shown in the photo, but they don't appear to come out, maybe they are siezed/rusted in there.
There were a couple of places where you can buy the reed switch but whoever is answering my question re the red wires never addresses this issue just confirming its the right switch.
As someone person mentioned earlier, spray with WD40, spray the fuse(have replaced with a new one) and it may loosen up the red wiring which may or may not come out.
Cheers
It is a common practice to manufacture devices with the sorts of connectors that just require the stripped or even not stripped wire into the hole & the 'scissors' cut through the insulation or just into the bared wire, whatever the case is. Makes it easier for manufacture/assembly.
Many of these don't allow you to withdraw the wire but others have a small release 'lever'.
When I encounter these sorts of connectors I always remove the insulation on the replacement component just to be sure.
Sometimes you can withdraw the old wires using brute strength. Might work or it might just damage the connector ruining the component.
Thetford in Brittain very good at answering queries through their on-line chat-bot, also very keen parts pricing and great delivery (outperforms local suppliers).
__________________
Possum; AKA:- Ali El-Aziz Mohamed Gundawiathan
Sent from my imperial66 typewriter using carrier pigeon, message sticks and smoke signals.
