I have travelled extensively through the eastern states of this wonderful country, and to a lesser extent, South Australia and the Northern Territory. However, there had been something I had wanted to do for many years. I had wanted to experience the adventure that all, to whom I had spoken, insisted was one of the must do things for the Aussie traveller - to cross the Nullarbor.
This year I determined that I would head west and savour the delights of that vast state with so many attractions extolled through its remote areas.
Heading out of Ceduna I was anticipating the adventure that awaited me. As the highway snaked further west, I absorbed the close bush that flanked the highway and enjoyed the countryside that, like so many other areas of this great land, has such varied and contrasting vegetation and soil colours.
Eventually, the sign identifying the eastern end of the Nullarbor Plain confronted me. I couldnt let the opportunity slip past to take the obligatory tourist photo standing under the sign. That box ticked off, I headed off wondering just what adventure lay before me.
I have travelled throughout the outback country of western NSW and QLD and enjoy the rolling, endless plains and deserted minor roads winding through the haze, creating the illusion there is no end to their piercing of the far horizon. I find the isolation invigorating, indeed humbling, as I realise just how insignificant we are in the overall vastness of this great country.
The Nullarbor Plain certainly lives up to the name given to it by Eyre not a tree in sight, even the occasional small bush is very rare. Given the recent rains so much of Australia has enjoyed in recent years, the usual stubble grass bushes were quite green looking like heads of broccoli stretching in all directions into the distance.
The volume of traffic, particularly trucks and we oldies in caravans, relieves the feeling of isolation and remoteness, especially as each caravan waves a cheery greeting as they pass. Roadhouses, stationed like sentinels every 80km to 180km, now also interrupt the isolation on such a regular basis it removes any anxiety of being stranded without fuel. The days of needing to carry extra fuel and provisions are long past. The roadhouses also provide a welcoming respite from the journey with the essential things needed to complete the journey. Hot food, fizzy drinks, pubs and places to sleep all greet the weary traveller. Prices are a challenge but availability seems to not be a problem with the exception of drinking water at a few of them.
Finally, the western end of the Nullarbor Plain rolled into view and it too warranted the obligatory tourist photo. I sat and looked back in the direction we had travelled and realised I had a feeling of some disappointment growing within me. The road is now an excellent, wide, sealed two-lane highway, requiring a level of concentration driven only by boredom rather than suspect road conditions or danger. I had just achieved one of the things I had looked forward to with anticipation only to find the adventure has been removed from it.
There remain many remote, isolated areas I have yet to experience and hopefully I will have sufficient time to add them to my bank of memories. However, if I were to nominate which remote areas I have now travelled through that gave me the most enjoyment, I doubt if the Nullarbor Plain would feature very high on the list.
Last year, the area west from Winton to Boulia and then up through Dajarra to Mount Isa would probably top my list. It had all I had hoped from the Nullarbor crossing isolation, remoteness, rolling plains with stunted vegetation, endless blue, big-sky country. To contrast the flat, endless stunted, struggling vegetation and waterless plains was the Lillyvale Range (locally called Cawnpore) with its stunning red dirt plain, raised and weathered red dirt and redrock mesa-type hills. The area was breathtaking.
Interestingly, the Nullarbor Plain is reminiscent of the countryside that can be experienced along Sturt Highway from Balranald to Hay in NSW. The Sturt does not have the aura of the Nullarbor but if you were travelling across the Nullarbor and fell asleep, and you were then transported magically to the Sturt Highway between Hay and Balranald it would take some time to realise the change when you awoke.
I think what has driven me to write this account is that, despite the adventure conjured up by history and travellers tales, there are so many areas within this huge country that will provide fulfilment, experience and enjoyment, all for their very own unique reasons. The solution, I think, is to just follow the winding, or spear-like road toward the horizon, keeping your eyes and mind open and let the experiences renew your soul.
Cheers - John
-- Edited by rockylizard on Monday 10th of September 2012 11:56:37 AM
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What you have said about the Nullabor is true. Hardly an adventure these days, especially when you come to the Ninety Mile Straight. .My first crossing of the Nullabor was as a 20year old young ' un in an old ford with around 40 gallons of petrol stashed in the back. A bit of food, ( bread, beans and some canned fruit ) some water, plenty of beer and not the slightest idea of what lay ahead. Apart from 1 puncture and truelly tough roads, my mate and I got from Kalgoorlie to Adelaide in 6 days. In 1993 ( 30 years later) I did the same road from east to west. Totally sealed , comfortable but totally devoid of any sense of adventure. Arghhhh, the good old days. lol
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You wrote that really well John. We crossed the Eyre Highway last year from West to East, and for the first 2 days (or was it 3) I was looking at all the trees and bushes and wondering why this place could possibly be called "Nullarbor". Eventually we came to the Real Nullarbor Plain, and it lives up to its name impressively. The Head of Bight was the highlight for us, we watched the whales for hours, Mums and babies lolling and playing around in the water below us. It didnt seem a long way before we left the Real Nullarbor, and I was left with a feeling of disappointment and unmet expectation. A bit more research would have told us that the Nullarbor Plain only comprises about 30-something-k's of the Eyre Highway. A memorable part of our trip anyway.
I wouldn't worry too much Beth. I remember some-one asking on this Forum a few years ago now, how far was the distance between Fuel stops, across the Nullarbor. I read the answer, and thought "Great, that's no problem. I can fill up before the tank gets empty every time.' My tank holds 70 ltrs.
Unless I'm not remembering correctly, when I came by Bus across from Perth to Canberra in about 1983, I think there were only 2 or 3 Roadhouses across the Nullarbor. Bit like Cape York. When I lived up there, it was a big deal to get a couple of thousand Tourists up there in a year. Now there's a Bloody great bridge over the Wenlock, and Tens of thousands go up, complete with Families.
I can't believe how much things have changed over the last 20 odd years.
Cheers,
Sheba.
-- Edited by Sheba on Monday 10th of September 2012 09:07:16 PM
rockylizard wrote: I had just achieved one of the things I had looked forward to with anticipation only to find the adventure has been removed from it.
I know exactly what you mean John. I finally got to see the Pyramids a few years ago, but the number of Tourist Buses parked so close to them, and the Hawkers hounding one, were so offputting, that by the time we got to the Sphynx, I just stayed on the bus. Most disappointing. It's a big let-down.
Cheers,
Sheba.
-- Edited by Sheba on Monday 10th of September 2012 09:24:08 PM
Well I must be the odd person out on this one, I have been to all the places mentioned here and the Nullabor/Eyre Highway still does it for me and I have been over it quite a few times.
For me, I think it is the remoteness and spiritual feeling of the plains away from all the hussle and bussle of the more populated areas, I enjoy it every time I drive over it, I suppose it is different strokes for different folks, but it gets the thumbs up from me.
How true Vic. We have travelled over and back 6 times and look forward to the next. It truely is a spiritual place. We try to free camp away from the designated areas as we find they are not that well maintained. We have fond memories of isolated areas and a campfire. Hoping the katachija man is approves of our caming spot.lol glenda
-- Edited by golivers travels on Tuesday 11th of September 2012 12:15:47 AM
As I said earlier, different strokes for different folks, you either hate the trip or enjoy it. My wife and I enjoy it and do find it is away from the hustle and bustle of city life. It is remote enought to warrant having a Flying Doctor airstrip on the highway for traffic or other emergencies and more than one person has had to pay for long and expensive tows to have their vehicles repaired at towns at either end of the highway, there is not a lot that can be done along the route for major repairs if you are unfortunate enough to need them.
I do agree John, it is hardly off the beaten track (unless you take the side bush tracks) and the main southern road route between east and west for road trains and tourist buses as well as RV's, cars etc. I enjoyed your description of your trip though, you certainly spent a long time exploring the area. For those crossing the Nullabor, always good to make sure you have a plentiful drinking water supply as John said, especially if venturing off the main route.
These days of course there is the challenge of the Nullabor Golf Links for those who enjoy Golf (I am not a golfer and don't travel the highway for that reason, but was amused at the Nullabor Roadhouse link where a couple told us of when they hit the ball they had to run to it quickly because the crows were swooping on the balls and flying off with them). As the golf course is now becoming internationally known, I would imagine that eventually the facilities along the route would need to be upgraded to accomodate international tourism, so will probably get a lot busier. Mind you some of the places along the way can certainly do with a facelift. This is some info on the golf links some may find interesting;
And then there is the legend of the Nullabor Nymph, Wombat claims to have seen her and has photo's to prove it, but I think he was drinking Wombat juice at the time. See these links;
I understand that the Indian-Pacific train line crosses through the heart of the Nullarbor, would like to travel on that one day to see the difference from the road which only skirts around the edge.
Thanks for all of that John. We will be headed WA way in 2014 and travelling for a couple of years at least. Thank you for the info in your post which has answered quite a few of our issues. Trust you enjoy the journey as we are. Take care and travel safe.
Brian & Cheryl
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Well done John. Yes its a big country & its forever changing, season to season it looks different & yes we have done that trip as well.
Another area of contrast in different seasons is the run up through Winton, Longreach & accross the Barkley.
We have done this one several times & have seen it in lush green with local flooding still in place, right through to golden yellow as the grasses fade away , to where it has been in full drought not a blade of grass all the way, just bare dirt.
Due to these types of conditions we get to see nature in many varied pattens, it gives many versions of the story making this country what it is.
Safe travells mate;
JC
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Well I must be the odd person out on this one, I have been to all the places mentioned here and the Nullabor/Eyre Highway still does it for me and I have been over it quite a few times.
For me, I think it is the remoteness and spiritual feeling of the plains away from all the hussle and bussle of the more populated areas, I enjoy it every time I drive over it, I suppose it is different strokes for different folks, but it gets the thumbs up from me.
Thanks Vic - unfortunately, I am afraid I did not find "remoteness and spiritual feeling of the plains away from all the hussle and bussle of the more populated areas". In fact I found it the opposite ... Lots of traffic, camping areas well populated (both roadside damps and roadhouse sites), crowds of travellers simply buying stuff at the roadhouses each time we stopped. Perhaps my expectations had been raised by comments of others.
I took three weeks to go from Ceduna to Norseman - so I took my time to absorb the Eyre Hwy and as many of the side-trips I could find.
Better than being in Melbourne/Sydney/Brisbane/Perth or large country towns for sure - but certainly a bit hard to call it remote these days.
Cheers - John
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2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto - 2008 23ft Golden Eagle Hunter Some people feel the rain - the others just get wet - Bob Dylan
Thank you so much for that wonderful account John.
I've often thought about going to WA but have been both freaked out and excited at the thought of crossing the Nullarbor. It would also mean going around the whole block, because it'd be silly not to. Maybe one day.
Unless I'm not remembering correctly, when I came by Bus across from Perth to Canberra in about 1983, I think there were only 2 or 3 Roadhouses across the Nullarbor. Sounds as though there are a lot more now.
Bit like Cape York. When I lived up there, it was a big deal to get a couple of thousand Tourists up there in a year. Now there's a Bloody great bridge over the Wenlock, and Tens of thousands go up, complete with Families.
I can't believe how much things have changed over the last 20 odd years.
Cheers,
Sheba.
Agree about the Cape Sheba. Half the fun and adventure was crossing the Wenlock. I'm glad I went before the bridge went in.
we have done the Nulla a few times now and will do it again, always find something to do along the way, last time coming across from Ceduna to WA we had a ride in the RFDS aircraft.
Vic, you are right I have seen the Nulla Nymph a couple of times, you have to be at the right place at the right time, I think we were just lucky to be there at the time she was out and about, and I have picture's to prove it.
Sorry for the hijack John (Rocky Lizard), have you had some experience writing ? A very well written post
Gday...
Thanks Vic - sort of - I have been editor of, and contributor to, various magazines over the years. Have had some articles published from time to time in other mags. Caravan & Motorhome carried some of my words early last year - suitably editorialised of course .
The hijack is no problem, the humour generated between certain incorrigible forumites always adds to the lives - if not the intelligence - of the rest of us
cheers - John
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2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto - 2008 23ft Golden Eagle Hunter Some people feel the rain - the others just get wet - Bob Dylan