You can test the board yourself. It'll only cost you 10 cents in parts.
Go to Jaycar and buy two 10Kohm 1/4 Watt resistors.
Take your old scrap thermistor and cut off the beaded end. Strip back the two wires and connect them to a single 10K resistor (as shown in either of the first two drawings). Plug this 10K dummy thermistor into your control board. Does the display show 25C?
Now add a second 10K resistor in parallel with the first, as in the third diagram. The combined resistance will be 5K. Now plug this 5K dummy thermistor into your control board. Does the display show 25C?
AISI, we could determine whether the main PCB is switching on the compressor by monitoring the voltage between the compressor's T and C terminals. This same voltage is also present at the terminals of the override switch or at CP4 on the main PCB.
My reading of the datasheet suggests that the following relationship applies:
T-C Voltage RPM
------------------
0V 2000
1V 2500
2V 3000
3V 3500
5V (?) off
__________________
"No friend ever served me, and no enemy ever wronged me, whom I have not repaid in full."
You can test the board yourself. It'll only cost you 10 cents in parts.
Go to Jaycar and buy two 10Kohm 1/4 Watt resistors.
Take your old scrap thermistor and cut off the beaded end. Strip back the two wires and connect them to a single 10K resistor (as shown in either of the first two drawings). Plug this 10K dummy thermistor into your control board. Does the display show 25C?
Now add a second 10K resistor in parallel with the first, as in the third diagram. The combined resistance will be 5K. Now plug this 5K dummy thermistor into your control board. Does the display show 25C?
<drawing removed for brevity>
-- Edited by dorian on Thursday 17th of April 2014 07:10:13 PM
dorian,
Your posting seems to imply that the NTC thermistor is the 5K variety. Everything I've seen indicates that the NTC sensor is 10K. My CF-40 is exactly 10K@25C and the fridge works.
My Thermistor packed it in a few weeks ago, I read up everything on here and decided to go to Jaycar and buy the thermistor. Well someone had beaten me too it and bought all the 10k stock. So I bought two OEM units, one so I could have a spare like the CF80's
When I opened the the end to get to the panel to drill the hole for the new thermistor I found it had already been done this way. I remember my Waeco failed during warranty, now I realize it was a thermistor fault then.
See pic of drill hole with thermistor wire coming out of case.
This made it easy for me to dig out the silicone they used to fill the hole. I cleaned it out and re fitted two thermistors side by side (I now have a spare like the CF80) and in my enthusiasm I failed to take a pic of the two units glued in
I bought the two thermistors and thermistor heatsink compound to put on the unit heads from Allvolts Power Solutions in Broome; They were very helpful and quick with their supply. They also included the "factory" repair guide for replacing the thermistor in CF-35 -40 models.
Second pic is unit working at set temp of 04 deg
I'd just like to say thanks to everyone who posted here as it made the repair easy.
Thanks
-- Edited by 67HR on Thursday 22nd of February 2018 11:29:23 PM
-- Edited by 67HR on Thursday 22nd of February 2018 11:30:16 PM
Hi, question for debe, I have a waeco cdf 40, maybe 2012 model.
Was thrown out 3 months ago ,I picked it up, plastic top slightly warped, but hey, it works.
After a lot of rain recently and it got wet, the display tells me the fridge is running at 65 c.
Inside is 10c or less.
Runs on ac and dc voltage.
It freezes with emergency over ride.
I can think of a few of reasons why.
The glue for the thermistor has broken down. A resistor has died. The thermistor is stuffed, there is a short elsewhere.
Any help would be appreciated before I look at paying for repairs, and I live in Katherine, so big dollars.