Generator under the bonnet

Gundog · Guru

Generator under the bonnet

DeBe · Guru

The problem being that the generator needs to run at a fixed speed to give 50HZ. If its a 2 pole genny its 3000RPM or 4 pole is 1500RPM. Not realy practical if driving as RPM is going to vary. Probably ok if you are parked & fix the revs!!

The Hats · Senior Member

G/Day mate.

Unless you can do ALL The work your self it would cost more than a new Genny. there is a lot of engineering and I doubt.

The Genny could handle the heat under the bonnet.

Cheers

The Hats

Ron

Pete49 · Senior Member

to add to all the above it will also suck hp from your motor
Pete

Peter_n_Margaret · Guru

It is not uncommon to add a second alternator to the motor to provide power to the 'house'.
This can then be 'tuned' to provide optimum voltage without the 'smarts' of modern alternator electronics.
It is much more efficient fuel wise to do this than run a conventional generator which are notoriously inefficient and polluting.

Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

Fit another 120 / 200 amp alternator ..

Cloak · Guru

I was looking at fitting a commercial generator to a PTO on the light truck but after the costs got way out of control I've now decided to fit additional sola panels, batteries and controllers
duplicating what the van will have. I like the LION battery over Lead acid too. Definitely a 200 amp alternator will be needed.

Delta18 · Guru

Gundog wrote:

The next question is where do I mount the electrics, suitable size cable from the generator to the relocated electrics, from there to an Anderson plug at the back of the ute and then Anderson plug wired into the caravan switchboard.
Why you ask I would like to run a standard fridge in the van, and when on the move there is 240v power available along with the portable generator for when we stop where the is no power.

I have heard of this being done, is it worth it or am I whistling dixie

I am no electrician but I can see that if you try to run 240v to your van, regardless how it is generated, via an Andersen Plug you are inviting more trouble than I weigh! You won't live long enough to read all the posts telling you it can't / shouldn't be done.

Cheers Neil

oldtrack123 · Guru

Gundog wrote:
The next question is where do I mount the electrics, suitable size cable from the generator to the relocated electrics, from there to an Anderson plug at the back of the ute and then Anderson plug wired into the caravan switchboard.

Hi

One simple quick answer

YOU DO NOT !!

A highly experienced electrician ,who is aware of ALL the risks & regulations could make a" reasonably safe "system

A DIYer to attempting such, could end up ELECTROCUTING himself or some one else.

ALL 240V ,no matter how it is generated /obtained can KILL, unless everything is done correctly .

ALL States of Aus have severe restrictions on who can do any 240V work

For Mr average about the limit that he can do is make plug connections

NO wiring that involves tools

PeterQ

Gundog · Guru

It would be a professional completed project, way out of my skill set

Cloak · Guru

I saw an ex fire rescue truck for sale with a 16 KVA 240 / 415V driven off the PTO... for a measly $20K....

Make a good tug maybe?

Jaahn · Guru

Gundog wrote:
It would be a professional completed project, way out of my skill set

Hi Gundog,

Others have said most of the answers but here is my summary.

It is not feasable to drive an alternating current, AC 240 V, generator from a vehicle engine which is not at a set governed speed. The cycles would be constantly varying as the engine speed goes up and down. That would not be suitable to drive an ordinary fridge or any other AC motor. If you rev the engine the generator may be damaged by the high revs and the voltage may rise above safe limits.

The 240 Volt wiring is potentially dangerous as has been said and would cost more than its worth to have done properly and safetly. An anderson plug does not have a place here either.

There are other ways to achieve what you want but this is not worth spending any money on, and it may kill someone as well.

Jaahn

03_troopy · Guru

Jaahn wrote:
Gundog wrote:
It would be a professional completed project, way out of my skill set
Hi Gundog,
Others have said most of the answers but here is my summary.
It is not feasable to drive an alternating current, AC 240 V, generator from a vehicle engine which is not at a set governed speed. The cycles would be constantly varying as the engine speed goes up and down. That would not be suitable to drive an ordinary fridge or any other AC motor. If you rev the engine the generator may be damaged by the high revs and the voltage may rise above safe limits.
The 240 Volt wiring is potentially dangerous as has been said and would cost more than its worth to have done properly and safetly. An anderson plug does not have a place here either.
There are other ways to achieve what you want but this is not worth spending any money on, and it may kill someone as well.
Jaahn

Unless it's an inverter generator. However, I agree with the rest of your post re-dangers.

-- Edited by 03_troopy on Wednesday 24th of September 2014 10:21:55 AM

oldtrack123 · Guru

Unless it's an inverter generator. However, I agree with the rest of your post re-dangers.

-- Edited by 03_troopy on Wednesday 24th of September 2014 10:21:55 AM

HI Troopy

Yes. an inverter generator does have a speed tolerance

But to what extent?

Bearing in mind the speed range of the average vehicle engine

Do you have any idea?

PeterQ

PeterD · Guru

oldtrack123 wrote:
Yes. an inverter generator does have a speed tolerance
But to what extent?

The actual generator in an inverter generator is a DC machine, therefore engine speed has no influence on the OP frequency. What does matter is that the generator speed is sufficient to produce sufficient DC power to drive the inverter section.

The second thing to worry about is over speed. It's easy enough to work out the gearing for generator speed at the tug motors cruising speed. However when you have that correct, Will the generator self destruct at hill climbing or heavy acceleration revs? Remember those generators are designed to work at a narrower range of speeds than the alternators in auto mobiles.

PeterD · Guru

Peter_n_Margaret wrote:
It is not uncommon to add a second alternator to the motor to provide power to the 'house'.
This can then be 'tuned' to provide optimum voltage without the 'smarts' of modern alternator electronics.

Ahh, I think we are looking back to the days when it was possible le to swing a hammer in a motor bay to repair a Holden or Falcon motor. Your Ocka may have this but what of the modern vehicles? We used to install 2 kW generators in police and fire vehicles to power Stem Lights (flood lights that rose up on an ingenious stem that came out of a can on the top of the vehicle.) I have not seen a modern vehicle that would accommodate that generator.

Jaahn · Guru

Hi smile

Just another comment for the sake of completness.

Most small generators do not have a complete self contained generator unit. It generally has only a rear bearing and relies on the engine shaft to support the front end of the rotor. Or the generator rotor is fully mounted on the engine shaft with no seperate bearings. disbelief

So to seperate the engine and expect to get the generator to be driven in some manner by a pulley somehow from a belt is actually an engineering exercise that would not be easy to do. Don't bother starting unless you want the work. confuse

Jaahn

Knowledge speaks, but wisdom listens.

Knowledge speaks, but wisdom listens.