I didn't wish to debate ohms law, I made the point only to suggest that voltage does not kill current does. A few milliamps across your heart and you cease, An Amp flowing from your left hand to your left foot may cause a burn but you will survive. So the point is moot. Rob
I knew some little red hen would come and tell us the sky would fall down. And the point about voltage, please get facts correct. If voltage killed we would have long since eradicated birds that sit on power lines. It is current that kills, and if you half the voltage you must double the current to achieve the same power. Simple Ohms law. So no USA at 110 v is far more dangerous than our 240V. And yes there are several other reasons I'm not going to get into, but if you feel inclined look it up.
Australia was born into the modern age with the spirit of make do. Tied together with fence wire, built out of bits on hand. Loose that and get tied up in red tape and Australia will become like the UK, a tired old country needing a good shake. Rob
And that shows how little you understand
Birds sitting on a power line are not electrocuted for ONE very simple reason,I let YOU try to work out why not
You obviously do not understand all about power volts & amps,with your current volts statement
.i'll let YOU try to work that out too ,but it is an extension of Ohms law [a little clue "R"
110VAC is NOT more dangerous than 240V AC
Any voltage above around 50V AC can kill ,that is all that is needed to force the few milliamps of current through the human body to cause cardiac arrest
The HertZ [freq ]of the voltage also plays a part , the worst frequencies are those around the heart rate.
But with 110V, the fault loop resistance of the circuit [including the human ,can be lower without reaching the fatal current that 240V would give
about 50% lower[Ohms law]
Better do a bit more googling & a brush up on basic electrical theory may help
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Thursday 15th of September 2016 08:34:12 PM
Here we go again pecking away. The facts on 110 if I have to state it is this. Someone said 110V is almost below a voltage that would cause current to flow through the body. He is almost correct. Current will flow, but it start's low and freezes your muscles and you tend to stick. You then panic and that has the effect of you sweating. 240V tends to send your muscles into spasm and you get thrown. Now I did not wish to be long winded on this but the purists here seem to require it. You want to look up electrocution stats , please do so, but please lets get back to the point of some poor beggar wanting to wire a glorified extension cord. Rob
I didn't wish to debate ohms law, I made the point only to suggest that voltage does not kill current does. A few milliamps across your heart and you cease, An Amp flowing from your left hand to your left foot may cause a burn but you will survive. So the point is moot. Rob
Another totally ridiculous post
It needs more than a few milliamps , that is why RCDs [normal domestic units ]are set to trip @around 40milliAmps
To SAVE lives
But those with certain health problems can be killed with far less which is why hospitals ,aged care facilities etc have 20 milli A units.,
Suggest you test your theory .running even just 0 .2 Amps from left hand to left foot & post the results
Now that should not cause too much of a burn as it only 20% of the current you suggest
but if burns are a concern ,why not even lower like 0.1 amps . Your knowledge of Ohms law should enable you to work out the series resistance you would need in series with your hand taking into account contact resistance & body path resistance
But it will be a loong wait , actually more likely never,before you post the result
Please, to those who do not fully understand electricity & it's dangers
IGNORE any thing that this poster's posts on such subjects or you could end up DEAD
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Thursday 15th of September 2016 09:56:28 PM
Here we go again pecking away. The facts on 110 if I have to state it is this. Someone said 110V is almost below a voltage that would cause current to flow through the body. He is almost correct. Current will flow, but it start's low and freezes your muscles and you tend to stick. You then panic and that has the effect of you sweating. 240V tends to send your muscles into spasm and you get thrown. Now I did not wish to be long winded on this but the purists here seem to require it. You want to look up electrocution stats , please do so, but please lets get back to the point of some poor beggar wanting to wire a glorified extension cord. Rob
What a load of#^)P
What qualifications do you have for any thing you post???? apart from Google or Wikipedia?
Have you ever had a shock from 240V Ac 50Hertz
I can assure YOU that you do not get thrown
The rate of muscular contraction is 100 per sec far too fast to be thrown
Dc is far safer at lower voltages ,as can be seen from the below voltages, before the rules, Regulations, &, ACTS apply
The Voltage limits before regulations & standards come into it are:
Any AC voltage above 50V AC. Although frequency can play a part , medium & very high frequency have less to little muscular effect but can lead to burning
Ripple free DC above 110V
Dc with a low/ medium freq ripple , anything above 50V[ typical example unfiltered rectified ac with peak voltage above 50V
But to others
Do not be mislead even 32V AC 50H can turn out very nasty if for some reason your are trapped on /with it
Personal knowledge of that with 32V AC lighting in a ship stern propeller tunnel. I had to help unhook the poor fellow
He survived but had permanent injuries never returned to work
Welders has died with a source of 72V , AC OC, again personal knowledge of two welders in a large pressure vessel, both people I worked with!!!
Electricity CAN KILL!!,
Obey All State Acts, Rules & Regulations, they are mainly there for one major reason "to protect lives & property"
-
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Thursday 15th of September 2016 10:45:59 PM
You wanna see what happens when mother magpie standing on the wooden cross piece of a pole feeds baby magpie standing on the wire. POOF!
Yes
At that point there is a conductive path from the live line wire to earth via the baby. the parent, the wooden crossbar & the pole. It could have a grounding wire running to the very top for lightning conduction ,just to help things along .
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Thursday 15th of September 2016 10:32:56 PM
Guitar amps have 5ma fuses people have been known to be killed by those. When you pick as folks are doing here you can do all sorts of things. No one in their right mind tries to get a shock, and simple ohms law needs more facts before you can figure out things. If you are unsure of what you are doing you tend to sweat, so you have to add that in. But you all are picking at crumbs to make sure no one gives the poor guy an answer.
It is the usual, attack and kill the subject. Someone suggests frequency plays a part if its close to heart rate. You don't attack that. A 1Hz frequency or there abouts is hard to find, but Im sure someone will come out with harmonics of this or that causes it. Rob
Guitar amps have 5ma fuses people have been known to be killed by those. When you pick as folks are doing here you can do all sorts of things. No one in their right mind tries to get a shock, and simple ohms law needs more facts before you can figure out things. If you are unsure of what you are doing you tend to sweat, so you have to add that in. But you all are picking at crumbs to make sure no one gives the poor guy an answer. It is the usual, attack and kill the subject. Someone suggests frequency plays a part if its close to heart rate. You don't attack that. A 1Hz frequency or there abouts is hard to find, but Im sure someone will come out with harmonics of this or that causes it. Rob
Simple question
Just What Qualifications do YOU have to be posting on electrical matters, electrical shocks???????????
Are you An electrician ,Doctor .???
Edit found the Answer
an Electronics "technician"
No rules or regulations covering that . No license required to do repair work, but , I hope you understand the limits of what YOU can legally do
Do you have any form of limited license for 240V work??
Perhaps have a read of the state you live /work in ELECTRICAL ACTS & REGULATIONS
The reason no one with with any sense of responsability will give the op an answer has been clearly stated !!! He asked a question thinking that is all he needs to know,
There is much more involved than just cable size for a safe complying installation ,that is why full knowledge of ALL the requirements of both relevant Standards are necessary .
And just in case some /you fail to understand
The acts regulations & applicable Standards prime functions are to protect lives & property & not just those of the clever person who does the job ,but other innocent persons too
To others, again be very careful of info you get , make certain it is from reputable, trained ,qualified people
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Thursday 15th of September 2016 11:22:02 PM
You wanna see what happens when mother magpie standing on the wooden cross piece of a pole feeds baby magpie standing on the wire. POOF!
Yes
At that point there is a conductive path from the live line wire to earth via the baby. the parent, the wooden crossbar & the pole. It could have a grounding wire running to the very top for lightning conduction ,just to help things along .
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Thursday 15th of September 2016 10:32:56 PM
Sarg, bearing in mind that the caravan supply cable is rated at 15A, this can be used as a starting point.
I don't think anyone here will advise you how to cable up 240V for obvious reasons. But I can tell you how I do it.
I use similar cable as in the house power points. I buy enough for small jobs from Bunnings. Stranded 25A rated, I find, is more than adequate in a caravan especially when most appliances are connected by 10A rated cables to the power points.
I have changed single power points to double or quad points and added a couple P/P's using similar rated cable originally fitted to van. Just saying what I did.
Also, always do my own plumbing and see no difference in the finished results as a "licenced" electrician or plumber.
This , of course, will "shock" many here but I am happy to accept the flak. lol.
-- Edited by Dick0 on Friday 16th of September 2016 11:49:46 AM
__________________
Cheers, Richard (Dick0)
"Home is where the Den is parked, Designer Orchid Special towed by Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited"
"4x250W solar panels, Epever 80A charger and 3x135Ah Voltax Prismatic LiFePO4 Batteries".
As a live lineworker some comments here are way way off . In any case far far away from OP . Like he's going to work on it a live . Btw it's pitential not always to earth that shocks !! Check YouTube but I'm not recommending you doing it yourself ! There's far too many things that can go wrong !!
Its nice to see some reasonable replied. No on is going to recommend he do it himself, you could get into the deep stuff doing that. But this guy is going to do it himself anyways. So lets just try to give him pointers so that his job is safe. He can only run 15A from the site, that's his starting point. What is his expectation? that's next. If he is only running it for a light circuit, 15A cable is fine and above what's needed. Fridge microwave and cooker, then no. Where is he running his wire? through steel? then he must protect it. There is a multitude of things he has to be aware of. Get a sparky is not an answer, its an excuse because you want a closed shop. Not a racist remark, but out front of my place they are building some form of hub for the internet rollout. 90% of the techs doing that are Indian, Perhaps the reason is obvious. Rob
The law in Australia is pretty black and white when it comes to working on the electrical in your home and is much tougher on DIYers and amateur sparkies than in most other countries. In the most basic terms, if a job goes much beyond changing a lightbulb, you will probably need to get the relevant licensed tradesperson onto it.
The following information is a basic overview of just some of the laws and regulations you, as an Aussie homeowner, should be aware of before attempting any work on the electrical systems in and around your home.
The majority of Australian states require homeowners to obtain a compliance certificate from a tradie for electrical work carried out, which then guarantees, among other things, that the work that has been completed complies with the all of the appropriate Australian Standards and that you would be covered for defective work.
The laws do vary from state to state and can, at times, be about as clear as mud. For example, the NSW Fair Trading site states An electrical licence is required before any electrical wiring work can be undertaken in NSW, regardless of the cost of the work and regardless of whether the work is residential, commercial or industrial. They go on to define electrical work as the manufacturing, constructing, installing, testing, maintaining, repairing, altering, removing or replacing of any electrical equipment. This seems to indicate that its OK to change a lightbulb, but anything else is pretty much out!
Queensland can award penalties of up to $100,000 or two years imprisonment if illegal electrical work results in serious injury or death. The maximum penalty for multiple deaths is $200,000 or three years imprisonment. and what would they consider illegal for a DIYER to do? All of the following:
installing a new power point.
replacing a light switch.
replacing a batten holder with a new light fitting.
repairing an appliance such as a heater.
altering the location of an existing power point.
replacing a light fitting with a ceiling fan.
constructing an extension lead.
replacing a plug on the end of a lead.
They do seem to be OK with a homeowner completing the following tasks though:
replacing a drive belt in a washing machine.
cutting openings for, but not connecting, air-conditioning units.
fitting, but not connecting, an electric wall oven in a kitchen cabinet.
rewiring old-style fuses.
installing garden lighting and pond pumps.
installing battery-operated smoke detectors.
At their website, the SA government The SA government website says that all electricians are responsible for work commencing at the point of supply, up to and including:
the electrical wiring on the consumers property from the main switchboard to the building wiring within the building to the electrical appliance fixed electrical appliances.
Now is it likely that you will get caught if you decide to scrimp a bit and complete work that the government feels that you are not qualified to do? No, if all goes to plan, probably not. If something goes awry however, that may very well be a very different scenario, not to mention the fact that the company that provides your homeowners insurance will be taking a very dim view of your DIY heroics as well.
Saving a couple of dollars now may seem like a great idea, but it could really cost you down the line. Better then to play it safe and when in doubt, find a licensed tradie.
& that is just a precis of what is in the various States's "Electrical Acts" ', '"Regulations"
Then we have the Standards books AS/NZS 3000 [some 500 odd pages of rules /requirements] Plus AS3001[50 pages of supplementary information specific to TRANSPORTABLE STRUCTURES
& some one believes a two or 3 word answer is enough!!!!!
Dicko it would be better to use flex cable ( as noted on first page ) instead of the cable used in household fixed wiring. Flex will stand up much better to the constant vibration caused by travelling.
Cheers Rob.
Dicko it would be better to use flex cable ( as noted on first page ) instead of the cable used in household fixed wiring. Flex will stand up much better to the constant vibration caused by travelling. Cheers Rob.
Again, FALSE information!!
Normal flexible cable [as used for extension leads etc] ,IS NOT APPROVED FOR FIXED[permanent ]WIRING, for very good reasons!!!
Beware of amatuer ,non qualified ,people giving advice !!!!
Do not take advice from this non licensed unqualified person,who has no idea of the requirements or the reasons for those, covered in the Standards
Regarding test certificates >,,
All license electricians SHALL issue a test certificate & retain records of, detailing the work they have carried out[even extensions & additions]
Failure to submit can mean severe penalties & electricians ,non licensed people regularly get caught .
Names, details, penalties posted on various State sites
NSW & WA are very active in posting
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 16th of September 2016 06:22:15 PM
Read a bit more of this publication and you will realise the Elexctricians get fined as well for faulty installations. Also a electrician not holding a WA licence fined for working in WA on a electrical installation.
Caravan installations
Electrical contractors carrying out electrical installing work on caravans are reminded to ensure the installation meets the following requirements:
1. All caravan installations must comply with the mandatory standards AS/NZS 3001:2008 Electrical installations Transportable structures and vehicles including their site supplies and AS/NZS 3000: 2007 Wiring Rules.
Please note, if a caravan was wired prior to the current edition of AS/NZS 3001:2008, then it only needs to meet the standard that was in effect at the time of manufacture.
2. When the installation has been completed, a Caravan Installation Test Certificate (available from EnergySafetys Licensing Office) must be completed and fitted to the caravan (see image below). This Certificate attests that the caravan meets required safety standards.
3. If an installation does not comply, a Caravan Installation Test Certificate must not be affixed to the caravan until further testing is carried out to rectify any identified defects.
4. If the caravan is to be connected to power on-site, ensure that the socket outlet has residual current device (RCD) protection.
5. On-site permanently wired caravans require two RCDs for the lighting and socket outlets. 6. Caravans that are sold, rented or leased require one RCD if there is one inlet socket and two or more RCDs are required if there are two or more inlet sockets. 7. A Preliminary Notice and Notice of Completion are required to be submitted to the relevant network operator if the caravan is being connected, or, reconnected to the electricity supply To obtain more Caravan Installation Test Certificates, please contact our Licensing Office on 6251 2000 or via email energylicensing@ commerce.wa.gov.a
Where did I say it was flex, as used in extension cables for use in a fixed wiring situation?
What I did say was that flex as mentioned by me on page one would stand up better to vibration. That was in response to Dicko's comment, as to him using household cable to do some wiring in his caravan.
Maybe if you took the trouble to refer to the first page of this thread you might notice that I did reference the correct flex cable to be used and which in my case was installed by a licenced electrician. I also refer to clip together pre wired cables which can be purchased from caravans plus. OK to be sold in Aus.
When I last made enquiries through Vic Safe ( electrical licensing authority in Vic. ), a motorhome was, and I presume a caravan, was as far as they were concerned to be treated the same as a plug in appliance, eg. a toaster. In their opinion there was no specific requirement to use an electrician, although as I stated on page one, I did use an electrician to do all the 240v. wiring, including the installation of both RVD and RCD for use with non earthed generator and inverter. Without a certified electrical installation you can have problems with the sign off by the engineer, when selling and insurance.
As noted by many others on this thread, I also recommend the use of a qualified electrician for 240v. wiring.
Where did I say it was flex, as used in extension cables for use in a fixed wiring situation? What I did say was that flex as mentioned by me on page one would stand up better to vibration. That was in response to Dicko's comment, as to him using household cable to do some wiring in his caravan.
Do you relaay know what you are saying? The cable you mentioned on page 1 is
(Flex Cable 2C+E 2.5mm2 50/0.25mm PVC Flex 250/440v O/Duty Grey Sheath), as taken from the receipt. This was also run inside another plastic flex for added protection against wear, due to vibration when travelling.
That is clearly flexible cable used in extension leads.
I saw a cartoon that amply describes you and your mates today:
Where did I say it was flex, as used in extension cables for use in a fixed wiring situation? What I did say was that flex as mentioned by me on page one would stand up better to vibration. That was in response to Dicko's comment, as to him using household cable to do some wiring in his caravan.
Do you relaay know what you are saying? The cable you mentioned on page 1 is
(Flex Cable 2C+E 2.5mm2 50/0.25mm PVC Flex 250/440v O/Duty Grey Sheath), as taken from the receipt. This was also run inside another plastic flex for added protection against wear, due to vibration when travelling.
That is clearly flexible cable used in extension leads.
I saw a cartoon that amply describes you and your mates today:
Yes, ordinary duty grey 3core EXTENSION LEAD cable & NOT APPROVED for permanent wiring for very good reasons,no matter how it is externally protected
Your Electrician mate also seems to need some education!!!
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 16th of September 2016 10:12:04 PM
What does it mean by permanent? At my previous house I wanted a flood light on the clothesline, so bought a portable plugin floodlight that stayed in place till we moved 15 years later. Was this permanent?
so bought a portable plugin floodlight that stayed in place till we moved 15 years later. Was this permanent?
If you used tools to secure it in place and tools were required to remove it then it could be considered permanent. If you hung it up and could later remove it without tools then it was not a permanent installation. Time of use does not come into the equation. You can install something for use over a weekend and uninstall it on Monday, even though that would be a permanent style installation you can uninstall it a few days later.
__________________
PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.
( Cable 2C+E 2.5MM2 50/0.25MM PVC Flex 2509/440V O/DTY GRY ) Purchased from Lawrence & Hanson Unit Price Exc. GST $414.O2 PER 100mt. I have plenty of leads at home, maybe I should have just cut some of them up instead of paying this price for exactly the same stuff. This flex is much heavier duty as possibly indicated by the price. Let's not forget that motorhomes and caravans have a 15A. supply inlet. As for the electrician being a mate; no he's not a mate, but he is extremely well qualified and competent. It is just possible that some people might need to do just a little more research before posting.
Cheers Rob.
-- Edited by robol on Saturday 17th of September 2016 09:26:15 AM
I wire my own cable ends and other wiring. in house and Caravan.
BUT a Sparky mate gave me a Digitech. "Power Point and Earth Leak Tester
QP-2000" Yrs ago.
Checks current and plug pin wiring orientation. b4 you put a load on it.
Power Point Polarity Tester. Socket wiring check
Also had ELCB test built in From 10 to 100 mA.
Everybody should have one.
Makes it a lot easier for idiots like me with 240.
to NOT cook myself.