replacing anodes

cruisaderhilton · Senior Member

replacing anodes

Snail · Senior Member

I put tape on my thread, just to be sure.

2weis · Senior Member

as snail said

ST391GQ · Senior Member

If you dont put tape on the thread.....or even a smear of ant_seize greas...you will definitly need a longer bar on your socket to loosen it thenext time.

And the rest of you on here..DONT ask me how I know this!!

Cheers Keith

oldtrack123 · Guru

ST391GQ wrote:
If you dont put tape on the thread.....or even a smear of ant_seize greas...you will definitly need a longer bar on your socket to loosen it thenext time.
And the rest of you on here..DONT ask me how I know this!!

Cheers Keith

You need to be careful with tape ,it could prevent current flow & therefor no protection

Best to us some anti seize grease.

Tony Bev · Guru

Hello cruisaderhilton

Usual disclaimer that I am not a plumber, and that the following is only my opinion

As a Fitter, I was trained to always put thread tape on (normal pressure), water pipe thread
Although in theory a taper thread will seal, normal water pressure, if it is tightened correctly

I agree with everyone who says to put thread tape on, as thread tape is a lubricant, and will assist when you have to replace the anode again

I also agree with oldtrack123 when he says that you must have continuity between the anode and tank, otherwise the anode will not work

I do not have an anode in my RV boiler, but in the home I use the thread tape sparingly, and then use a multimeter set on ohms, to check that I have continuity between the anode and tank

Hope that this info is helpful

OutbackMK · Senior Member

Purchased two new suburban anodes they came with a thin wrap of thread tape, the threads cut the tape so plenty of contact, each 6mths they look like something has eaten about 50% of them. Give the tank a good flush out with a small tube stuck in the end of your hose when you have the anode out you will be surprised at how much muck comes out.

macka17 · Guru

With the ones that had Anodes.
I applied a bit of tape over rear half of thread. to help seal while front half of thread made contact.
Never had a problem. though a multi to check is a sensible idea.

ALWAYS flush tank b4 adding new rod.

patrol03 · Senior Member

Lateral thinking Macka.

adrian foley · Member

Thread tape for sure.All tapered threads should have some form of sealer.

Robreen · Veteran Member

G'day all. Yes, I use tape for a good seal. A bit of track, re flushing hws tank. I remove the anode (carefully), let it drain, use a bottle brush and squirty hose through the anode hole. Lots of build up can come out. Then I connect the hose up to the mains connecter and let the water flush out through the anode hole. Using the bottle brush in the hole, seems to get a lot of the loose stuff out. It works for me.

Dick0 · Guru

Yep, always use tape. Fair bit of pressure when gets hot.

Also, I write date of changeover with felt pen on inside of access door/flap. No guesswork when next change due.

rockylizard · Guru

Gday...

I found this document very useful in the early days ... and it states to use Teflon tape on the thread -

Cheers - John

macka17 · Guru

My last coupla Roadstars. Had the Stainless water heater.
NO anodes.

Phil C · Guru

In relation to Oldtrack's comment, I have tape at the first few threads and leave the top end 3 or 4 mm bare. I would be inclined to think the large nut may be enough to let the galvanic current flow, but a good precaution may be what I have suggested.

We had a large heat pump storge HWS at our last home, the anode had been insulated from the body and the thing leaked like crazy after a few years. Lucky for us, after I claimed warranty, the anode was as good as new showing the thing was not installed correctly and we got a new HWS. Lesson from this is as Oldtrack has said, make sure there is a current path or the HWS will spring a leak.

Cheers

oldtrack123 · Guru

Phil C wrote:
In relation to Oldtrack's comment, I have tape at the first few threads and leave the top end 3 or 4 mm bare. I would be inclined to think the large nut may be enough to let the galvanic current flow, but a good precaution may be what I have suggested.

We had a large heat pump storge HWS at our last home, the anode had been insulated from the body and the thing leaked like crazy after a few years. Lucky for us, after I claimed warranty, the anode was as good as new showing the thing was not installed correctly and we got a new HWS. Lesson from this is as Oldtrack has said, make sure there is a current path or the HWS will spring a leak.

Cheers

smile biggrin

Yes. it does happen, especially with tape happy overdoing it.

oldtrack123 · Guru

Dick0 wrote:
Yep, always use tape. Fair bit of pressure when gets hot.
Also, I write date of changeover with felt pen on inside of access door/flap. No guesswork when next change due.

There will be a marginal increase in the volume of the water from cold to hot, really not much volume change , but it should not be generating steam

They do have a pressure relief valve .,

Crustie · Member

I fit a lot of residential hot water services
We use tape and also locktite on all screwed joints

Chris