pulled into a service service centre today like most of us with vans the best place is the truckies section, there was a guy just finishing putting fuel in his diesil it was that add blue stuff, I had to tell him that from what I have heard You can't run that stuff through your engine and not to drive the thing.
after seeing him I went and had a yarn with one of the truckies to find out a bit more about it, apparently it's only a fuel additive they put in a seperate tank on the truck ,and it bleeds a little bit into the main tank .
He also said that he accidently used it to wash his windscreen once and it wrecked the screen ,I asked the guy why he put it in his tank his answer was because it did not have the high flow nozzle ,and they should have some warning on the bowsers, I did not say anything but there was blue labelling on the thing ,that's how I was able to hopefully save his arse, it also had some fine print on a label stating that this is not a fuel and don't put in the tank, this post is just a warning to be care full I know most are aware of this but if it saves just one of us it's worth while..
AdBlue is a Water , Urea solution that is injected into exhaust, not the engine , It should never be put into the fuel tank , if a diesel vehicle is designed to use AdBlue it will have a seperate tank .
A few weeks ago, I went to Perth to pick up my daughter FIFO from the airport.
Halfway there I received a text that her plane had been delayed
I cooled my heels at the new servo/s at Baldivis on the Kwinana Freeway (West Aussies know where I am talking about), and let the rush hour traffic thin out a bit
While walking around I spotted an add blue bowser, at the truckies section I was surprised that the sign on the bowser, saying not to be put in tank (or words to that effect), was very small
I can see many people being caught out, thinking that add blue is a normal slow speed diesel bowser, especially when on that day the truckies diesel was for whatever reason, cheaper than normal diesel
As Ron D has already said, beware that the add blue nozzle looks like an ordinary slow speed diesel nozzle
Like JackoFJR said it's an additive that is injected into the hottest part of the exhaust. It is designed to reduce carbon particulates produced when diesel is burnt.
Some scientists say that the level of carbon particulates in the air is worse for us than the Carbon monoxide from petrol engines hence the adblue to reduce them.
If it works great or is it another money making scam?
Thanks that's the piece of the puzzle I got wrong,maybe we should have something like that on our tugs,I have been quoted 1100 dollars to have my inlet manifold cleaned out as it is now just about blocked with carbon,have a look at this problem on the net !to get around emission regs all the crap is now burned in our manifolds,my problem exists he the mechanic took pictures of the problem and from performance drop in my tug I know this is not B/S. most here with diesil engines probably have the same thing happening and don't now it because we steadily get used to the performance drop until things grind to a stop...my vehicle is a Mitsubishi challenger .....
Ron-D: Several things... As stated above, Ad-Blue is a Urea/Water solution which is designed to be injected into the exhaust system to minimise Nitrous Oxides. It doesn't do much for Carbon particles. Large trucks (Euro 5 and Euro 6 emission standards) require Ad-Blue to be used. It is a small (20 L from memory) tank separate to the main fuel tanks and one tank is enough to do Sydney/Melbourne return. If they run out of Ad-Blue, the engine goes into limp mode and they cannot exceed 80 km/h, so there is a strong incentive for the truckies to keep it topped up.
The Ad-Blue is added upstream from the main catalytic converter, but well downstream from the turbo or the EGR valve on our little tractors we use to tow our caravans. Therefore Ad-Blue will not help with the gunking up of the inlet manifold. The only way to reduce the gunking problem for us is to either blank off the EGR system (this may cause a fault to come up on the Check engine system) or to use a simple electrical modification which fools the car ECu into thinking that it is too cold for the EGR to operate. Both of these mods are of course not legal, but since most of the running for vehicles on this forum is out in the country I don't think it is such a bad thing. With my vehicle, I rarely do short runs, and therefore nearly all the runs are done with the engine warmed up, at 100 km/h and not idling very much. This is when the EGR comes in, thinking that the car is stuck in traffic and it needs to minimise pollution. I am getting my Pajero serviced (75000 km) soon, and this requires the intake manifold be removed to get access to the tappets. I will be interested to see how much gunk is in my intake manifold then...
Good information erad now I know a lot more about the subject than I did a few days ago, but even without the extra knowledge on the suject staying clear of the stuff is the main thing...
got our 2002 100 series cruiser booked in for inlet clean monday week 371.000klms be intrested in how much gunk in there you can also put in small ballbearing to blank off egr system to stop further clogging up according to the person doing the job
You dont have EGR and ADD BLUE on same engine. Its one or the other.
As stated, all euro 6 are fitted with ADD BLUE. Any cars built in Europe will start arriving here soon with add blue. Australia is at euro 5 atm.
Some years ago in the UK some guy thought it was water and was topping up the coolong system on the companies fleet of over cab fridges. Soon it started rotting out the filler necks in the radiators. Cant remember if it attacked the soft solder or the copper...
Nasty un neaded stuff if you ask me.
The tank its in on any vehicle is usually 10% of the fuel capasity in the other tanks.
Kezngaz.
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For the last 2 years, new cars, utes and trucks etc that run on diesel have completely different ECE emission specs to comply with and don't use add blue.
New emission regs require a turbo burn directly into the diesel particulate filter every 600 or so kilometers (depending on conditions) to burn off the build up.
PS. Don't be conned, there is no difference between truck diesel and car diesel, it is all the same. The discounted price is because truckies buy more. Hi-Flow relates to the flow rate of the bowser not the diesel or the engine. Hi-flow bowsers pump out that diesel at a much faster rate. Regular bowsers would be painful when you need to put 1,000 litres into a trucks tanks. The reason the bowser says not recommended for cars is because the small filler pipes used in cars and utes tend to cause frothing and overflowing tanks as they get near full. Just keep an eye on the amount you've pumped in and reduce the squeeze on the trigger to half way as you near the last 10 litres or so.
The other catch with the high flow pumps is their accuracy, if you pump through 1,000ltrs you wouldn't notice it, but the 100ltrs my Ford Cargo takes it does show up, so I avoid the hiflow pumps if I'm not in a hurry.
As far as the intake carbon problem, this first started to appear back in the VL Commodore Nissan 3 ltr engines, it is a mix of the effect from the EGR valave and leaking intake valve oil seals. The fix was to run a double dose of Pro-Mar fuel treatment with each fill up till the problems went away, if they were severe we added a triple dose for a few tanks. We actually did strip one down as a before and after to document whether it was a sales myth or if it really worked, it really did work. Wynns also had a kit that connected to the inlet manifold and metered a small amount into the intake air, this was also quite successful and I'd suggest this method of feeding into the air intake before the turbo would be the better choice as diesels do not inject into the last bit of the intake the way petrol engines do, so the cleaner/decarbonising agent wouldn't be delivered where it was needed. No idea what effect Add Blu would have doing a similar job, but the idea is similar, the urea adheres to the carbon and other cabon particles adhere to it making the nano carbon particles heavy enough to fall out of the air. The water part is to drop the exhaust temp, the combination is quite effective, just check the different colour of the exhaust on a vehicle using add blu compared to one not using it or a particulate filter, one has a brown dust and the other sooty black carbon.
T1 Terry
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