Just wondering if it's a two or three position switch with poor detents.  We have lights with centre off, one way low and the other way high?  If you can't feel the detents you could be skipping a position?

 

Here is a picture of light on and light off .The light switch is just a standard on off switch, no indent.The van is just 4 years old now we are in it 24/7,but the ensuite light has been doing this for 2 years on and off .The one in the bedroom only started on Saturday so I am wondering if it is old age catching up and time to renew.

Movin dust,safe travels 

Thanks for any input  Trevor 

 

ants_oz wrote:

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Sounds like dry joints on the circuit board - intermittent contact being made by the board-mounted LED's. If you are at all handy with a soldering iron, disassemble the light, remove the PCB and re-solder all the board-mounts for the LED's. Cost = zero. Effort = minimal. Chances of fixing? I reckon better than average ;)

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 Yes, that's a possibility but you'd need a really fine tipped iron and an extreamly steady hand and that's after you break apart the sealed fitting which in many cases has been glued. If you've got plenty of time its worth a try but be prepared for breakages (been there done that).

I have modified some sealed LED downlights for a few people and added a G4 socket which could then be fitted with replaceable G4 Side Pin LED Discs, but it's fiddly, time consuming and again you risk the fitting being broken just trying to do it.

So, my advice would be to replace them, they're playing up now and eventually they'll stop all together.  From the pics and given their age, yours look like 5050 SMD Leds and 5 SMD's would be lucky to produce 80 Lumen of light. IMHO roof downlights should be a minimum 12 SMD's (180 Lumen Min) or if its under overhead cabinets you could use 9 SMD's that is if you stick to 5050 type LED's. 

You can buy replacements that use Cree technology (really bright), but if you do that make sure you get the ones that fit the same hole size and have a heatsink built into them ensuring there's enough cavity space in the roof for them to fit plus some air space around them so they can disapate the heat effectively.  Given how many you have a 3 x 1 Watt Cree (300+ Lumen) would be ideal to replace the 5 SMD's and a 3 x 2 Watt (600+ Lumen) would be ideal to replace your 8 SMD's.

With any direct replacement you still have the issue if it fails again, you'd need to replace and rewire the whole fitting again, because they're still a complete unserviceable sealed unit.  However, another option which could work out cheaper would be to buy the old style Halogen Type downlights that have a side fitting G4 pin halogen globe and retro fit them with G4 side pin Disc LED's to suit. Looking at your pics these should fit straight in the existing hole.

The Halogen Type downlight fittings are still available in most lighting shops and maybe flea bay if you shop around. Because they are almost obsolete these days they're really cheap and even with adding the LED's to convert them it would still work out cheaper than a sealed non serviceable unit. Then IF the LED's should fail anytime down the track your just replacing the LED which just plugs in and not the fitting itself.

Hope this info overload helps.

Steve.

-- Edited by madaboutled on Monday 9th of January 2017 03:38:20 PM

Thanks for your replies,I will give the soldering iron a workout later this week if no good have to spend some money,which I don't like to much,

Thanks again Trevor 

Sometimes with switches its just a bit of dust or dirt on the contacts. Try carefully removing the rubber boot then spray some WD40 into the switch, give it a few clicks then let it drain out & dry before assembling. This trick also works good on the entry lights on caravans & motorhomes, replacements for these can be excee from parts places

I wouldn't use WD40 for this application. I suggest you go to Jaycar or any good electronics store and get a spray can of contact cleaner. It leaves no residue and does a good job on potentiometers, switches and all electronic contacts. It will cost about $9 -$10. I carry one all the time and it lasts for ages. Good luck with whatever you try.