On Wednesday morning Iam going to pull the inlet manifold off my 011 Mitsubishi challenger,and clean all the oil and carbon deposits out of the manifold,this stuff will be baked on solid just wondering if anyone on the forum has done this job and what were there cleaning methods.
A product from Wynns called combustion chamber cleaner is by far the easiest to use. If you can remove the rocker gear so the valves stay closed or do one cyl at a time and turn the motor till the valves are closed, then flood the back of the valve and manifold with the cleaner and leave for 12 hrs, suck it back out and use it on the remaing valves that were open on the first attempt. After that has soaked for 12 hrs suck that back out and put it away for next time, take the manifold off and simply flick the gunk out and wipe clean with a rag. Any bits left are so soft they will pass through the motor without causing any problems... unless you have a catalytic converter of particulate filter, then best to drop the exhaust pipe and run the eng for a bit to clear the lumpy bits out.
The before and after treatment results will be quite amazing if you do the inlet ports as well as the inlet manifold
T1 Terry
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Ron why not post your request on to the Pajero forum, these guy's would be able offer advise or tell you what type of pitfalls you may encounter. These people are a wealth of information.
Thanks for your reply Terry but I have already started to remove the manifold from the waggon ,so all I was after is what sort of solvent to use ,to physically clean the manifold when off the vehicle,this complete manifold removal and clean is common practice with the Mitsubishi challenger and triton engines,my motor gone well past spraying stuff into the manifold unfortunately...
Ron why not post your request on to the Pajero forum, these guy's would be able offer advise or tell you what type of pitfalls you may encounter. These people are a wealth of information.
Thanks Val I have been all over the forums looks like heavy degreaser and brush...
Ron, just a quick one while you have the Pajero apart, remove the rocker cover and on the inside their is a small stainless filter that is connected to from memory the input to the inter cooler. This has been known to block and cause all sorts of trouble with blow by and also could allow oil to get into the turbo' air intake. It's a bugger to clean and some of the Pajero members have removed the metal cover over the filter and given it a very good clean, a long soak in a good degreaser helps. Worth a look and this blockage has been reported on a lot of the diesel pajero engines.
I appreciate your advice Valiant but my cars not a Pajero and the usual fix is to just do the inlet manifold ,thanks for the tip aussie Kiwi but I have just today purchased a product called chemtec Ct14 and Iam also considering a trick I seen on the internet where you fill the manifold up with oven cleaner ,wait two hours and hit it with the gurney,if that fails out with the heavy duty degreaser and elbow grease ,at the end of this saga if anyone one else needs advice on how it's done I will be a wealth of information ...
I appreciate your advice Valiant but my cars not a Pajero and the usual fix is to just do the inlet manifold ,thanks for the tip aussie Kiwi but I have just today purchased a product called chemtec Ct14 and Iam also considering a trick I seen on the internet where you fill the manifold up with oven cleaner ,wait two hours and hit it with the gurney,if that fails out with the heavy duty degreaser and elbow grease ,at the end of this saga if anyone one else needs advice on how it's done I will be a wealth of information ...
Don't forget to clean the intake ports while you have it apart, the Wynns combustion chamber cleaner will still work if you set the manifold up so you can fill the last section of the runners where the gunk builds up, then do the same with the inlet ports but be sure the valves are closed. A scratch around with a screwdriver and wire brush to get the last bits loose and blow out with compressed air or a contractor size can of WD40 and the nozzle if you don't have access to compressed air and a nozzle.
T1 Terry
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You can lead a head to knowledge but you can't make it think. One day I'll know it all, but till then, I'll keep learning.
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I saw a YouTube video a while back where blokes were burning the coke out with an oxy set. A bit extreme maybe, but if it works...
Cleaned it up today Kevin with oven cleaner and my gurney, got most of it out,then a paint brush and heavy degreaser mixture got the rest. It's perfect now,the funny thing I read all the stuff on the forums and was expecting a carbon up mess,no to my surprise ,it was black with carbon but only surface stuff ,I think maybe and I could be wrong
my motor is 2.5 ltr,maybe the earlier 3 ltr triton engines had a different inlet manifold .I think and just maybe they were more prone to carbon build up ...
Picture is of the manifold pre cleaning ...
-- Edited by Ron-D on Wednesday 15th of March 2017 05:40:56 PM
-- Edited by Ron-D on Wednesday 15th of March 2017 05:43:49 PM
When you put it all back together you need to fit a oil catch can to stop it happening again
Dragonfly1
I was going to do that and your right they are the answer,but after a 105,000klms and very little carbon in my case I don't think it's worth 300dollars I will just remove it again in five years time its not much of a job ....
Catch cans or oil seperaters can be bought for $50 .. A higher tube off PCV can assist in preventing oil getting into manifold .. The other breather can be vented to air cleaner ..
Catch cans or oil seperaters can be bought for $50 .. A higher tube off PCV can assist in preventing oil getting into manifold .. The other breather can be vented to air cleaner ..
Your right Aus Kiwi but if you do your research on the nett ,Provent catch cans seems to be the one they all go for and there expensive ,apparently if you buy cheap you buy crap,to me it was not worth the risk, Iam not putting one on now I don't think I need one ,but you can buy a blanking plate with a small hole in it ,on the nett just toying with that thought at the moment...
Make sure the lines in and out of the catch-can do not restrict breathing, the Provent is essentially a Hummel but there are many knock-offs on evilbay that have the same specifications.(check their specs on inlet and outlet size.) Some have a stainless steel mesh instead of fibre which is probably more efficient for condensing oil vapour, all share a common feature of a spring loaded top to maintain correct crankcase pressure and one-way valve on exhaust side of the catch-can.
Mine will catch about 200 ml of oil per 5000km for the 70 series V8 Landcruiser, I would rather drain it into a can than feed it back into the intercooler.
The blanking plate will prevent the EGR (Exhaust Gas Reticulation Valve) from ingesting as much exhaust vapour back into the inlet manifold, the hole is to trick the computer into thinking the valve is opening and closing due to a pressure change. Some vehicles like mine throw an error code if the plate does not have a 6-8mm hole in it to allow the engine to think its functioning normally.
Blocking this valve does not stop oil entering the intercooler only the inlet manifold.
Brian
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I make my own catch cans from 80mm alloy tube .If petrol engine . Oil in combustion chamber assists in detonation . Best don't use vented to atmo as it's not EPA legal . Just fitting a proper hose higher from rocker cover to allow oil to run back No hose or separator should be smaller than std plumbing !! Often a case of poor fuel or ignition timing too advanced ? Often detonation which causes blowby . A water injection kit can assist in clean inlet, induction also . A 20/80 % water mix works well .
I make my own catch cans from 80mm alloy tube .If petrol engine . Oil in combustion chamber assists in detonation . Best don't use vented to atmo as it's not EPA legal . Just fitting a proper hose higher from rocker cover to allow oil to run back No hose or separator should be smaller than std plumbing !! Often a case of poor fuel or ignition timing too advanced ? Often detonation which causes blowby . A water injection kit can assist in clean inlet, induction also . A 20/80 % water mix works well .
No doubt you know your stuff Aussie Kiwi but your doing my head in with this one
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