Last Dometic van fridge I threw out.

Mains stopped working.
$120 for new element. 10 min's to install.

Shortly after. Dump.

Sorry . I don't like the useless things.
Even after 50 odd yrs of caravaning.

Hey Macka the man is asking for help about possible problems with electrical side of frig, move into this modern world, for one they do work, they will keep your food cold or frozen and the wifes wine at a nice temp. So give it a rest we are talking about a 2003 frig not a 1970 frig.

Now to resolve the mans problem, not working on 240 volts, it seems like a heater element might be the trouble.

First things first:
1 Check that you have 240V to the fridge power point. Plug a drill or lead light etc in to the socket and see if it works.

2 It is most likely the heating element. If you have access to a multimeter, unplug the 240 V lead, set the selector switch to 240 and measure the resistance of the element between the active and the neutral pins (the angled pins). It should be around 25 Ohms or so, but if it reads infinity or very high, the element is probably stuffed. replacement element is not cheap - expect to pay $150 or more for it.

3 If the element is diff, it is a simple job to replace, but you will have to remove the fridge to get at it. This means disconnecting the gas line and also the 12V and 240 V connections, and then find the fridge securing screws and undo them. Slide the fridge out, and then you will see the 12V and the 240 V elements covered in a tin shield. Slide them out and you will fiond the duff element.

4 Reassembly is the reverse of the above. Make sure that you check the gas connections for leakage (using soapy water on the joint).

4 If you want to replace the fridge with a new one, you are looking at up to $1500 - they are not cheap in price.

If you are unsure of your abilities in this area, it is better that you get someone to check it for you, but the resistance check on the plug pins is easy and doesn't require any dismantling, other than clearing out the cupboard to get access to the plug.

re ERAD's comments.

 

All good except:

With fridge plugged in and turned on, does a light show inside?

Put thermostat setting on mid-range.  Leave half an hour.

Put hand in freezer, it should be a bit icey.

If no good, remove the outside venting panel, then disconnect from the power point, if not already done from inside the van. Try a drill in power point, as stated.

Put your multimeter on resistance , probably Rx1, or Rx10. Meter check:Touch the probes together - should get a reading of near zero ohms.

OK. The test:

Connect the probes to the angled pins on the plug of the fridge, either way around should be ok. Make good contact by a bit of a scratch if necessary.

Either use bulldog/alligator leads (Jaycar) to connect with, or get help to do next bit.

Operate the control switch from the 12v through to gas and see if the 240v position reveals itself.

The knob may be slack.

As stated 25ohms or so. But if nothing showing at all (reading infinity or close to it), then element is gone.

If no good then open the back and reveal the element wiring contacts.

(The knob is at the front, but the works are at the back, coupled by a long shaft)

MAKE SURE THE FRIDGE IS DISCONNECTED FROM THE 240VOLT SUPPLY.

Try checking the element itself, while it is in situ in the heating sleeve at the contacts onto the switch. This checks the switch itself.

If needing to replace the element, then it should slide out.

While there dust off the gas pilot reflector and viewing prism.

Re12 volt. Some models do not actually have a 12volt element, despite what is on the switch.

 

Ive been there and done all this myself.

Good luck.

 

I have had my Fridge (RM2350)  a couple of times not work on 240v.  Frustratingly the first time was while  doing the  Great Central  Road. Stayed the night at Warburton and plugged into 240v No Fridge Cooling. Could not figure it out till we got to Alice.

(This was no problem on the trip as we mostly Bush Camp and run on Gas.) 

Each time it has been the plug has just worked its way out of the socket,  just a little.   or been knocked out while stowing gear in the seat locker.

Our fridge 240v GPO situated as it is under a seat,   just having a look  and "Yep" the plug is in and the switch is on, was not good enough.     Physically pushing the plug in solved the problem. It had just worked it's way out of the socket so contact was lost.  I have the plug secured now so it cannot work loose. 

 

Same thing with the 12v element not working.   I have had the wires come loose in the connector block. Just looking  like they were still in place. Gave the positive a wiggle and it was not attached.

  Fixed a camping neighbours fridge recently at Gracetown,  same problem no 12 volt element.   That again was wiring  loose at the connector block. 

-- Edited by elliemike on Thursday 20th of April 2017 06:02:43 AM

Thanks for the advice. I believe that it is the heater element. Will be looking at getting this fixed in the next week or so.

Just got the fridge fixed.  The problem was the selector switch.  It appears that as the selector switch had not been moved over the years it had seized and locked on the 240V position.  When we moved it to gas as it was seized the switch knob was not turning the selector (hope that makes sense).  Total cost was $230 including $35 for the switch knob, thought this was a bit steep, but needed it repaired

molly_chick wrote:

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Just got the fridge fixed.  The problem was the selector switch.  It appears that as the selector switch had not been moved over the years it had seized and locked on the 240V position.  When we moved it to gas as it was seized the switch knob was not turning the selector (hope that makes sense).  Total cost was $230 including $35 for the switch knob, thought this was a bit steep, but needed it repaired

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 Cheaper than a new fridge, well done.