Only tool needed will be an 1 1/16" socket. Switch off electrics, drain the system of water by removing one of the red hoses under the van from one of the John Guest fittings. When the system is drained and there is no pressure left in the system,remove the existing anode anti clockwise. If there is any remaining water in the system it will run out once the anode is removed. It helps to have a hot tap turned on to let air into the system as the water drains. Give the tank a good flush out before fitting the new unit
Fitting is the reverse of removal. The new anode if genuine will have a small amount of thread tape on the BSP tapered thread. Tighten till firm. Check for leaks when you refill the system. Hope this helps.
Only tool needed will be an 1 1/16" socket. Switch off electrics, drain the system of water by removing one of the red hoses under the van from one of the John Guest fittings. When the system is drained and there is no pressure left in the system,remove the existing anode anti clockwise. If there is any remaining water in the system it will run out once the anode is removed. It helps to have a hot tap turned on to let air into the system as the water drains. Give the tank a good flush out before fitting the new unit
Fitting is the reverse of removal. The new anode if genuine will have a small amount of thread tape on the BSP tapered thread. Tighten till firm. Check for leaks when you refill the system. Hope this helps.
the title is asking about Thermostat replacement not anode replacement
Confirm that thermostat is shot first, I had lukewarm out of the tap but had if taken from vent off valve it was hot, problem was temp-rite valve not thermostat.
The thermostat is not adjustable and it either works of not.
Available on-line, I also found installation notes but didn't keep them when i realised it was the temp valve.
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Brian & Nada retired and > "Ready to live the Dream" Live in the Shire!
76 series V8 Landcrab with Jayco Starcraft Outback Poptop
Thanks everyone. Water is hot when it works. My problem is getting it to stay alight. It lights first go burns for about 10-15 seconds then the auto lighter starts clicking again and it go out. I think something is telling it it hasn't light or its at temp. I can make make it start by turning it on snd off after it does it twice and then it goes. Cheers
I would confirm the operation on 240 V if ok it will probably be some blockage in the gas supply or control circuit, may require disassembly and could pose risks if any gas leaks result from tampering, If you are not 100% on leak tests get a pro to look at it.
Goodluck,
Brian
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Brian & Nada retired and > "Ready to live the Dream" Live in the Shire!
76 series V8 Landcrab with Jayco Starcraft Outback Poptop
I had issues with mine. Symptoms were that the pilot would light & stay on but the main 'blower' wouldn't stay on.
The problem turned out to be the gas regulator full of gunk. The gas specialist guy said that it is common for regulators to fail for this reason after about 5 years. The culprit is the stuff they add to the gas to give it an odour.
I replaced mine & all OK.
Perhaps you could check yours out by swapping one off a BBQ or whatever.
Edit .. Mine is not a remote start so it doesn't have the printed circuit board that yours has to control its operation. That would be my second guess, but they might be a bit expensive to change just on suspicion.
-- Edited by Cupie on Sunday 30th of April 2017 11:14:07 PM
More thinking over night. I don't think it's the thermostat as it only supplies the 12v dc to the printed circuit card (PCB) when it's not hot. I'm now leaning towards the PCB which controls the ignitor and gas valves, it is about $370.
More thinking over night. I don't think it's the thermostat as it only supplies the 12v dc to the printed circuit card (PCB) when it's not hot. I'm now leaning towards the PCB which controls the ignitor and gas valves, it is about $370.
I've got a faulty one in my parts bin. My Son changed it on one of the second hand caravans that he was working on for a dealer.
Given the price of them it might be worth getting my electronics expert mate to have a look at it.
Edit ... Buggar, can't find it. Must have binned it in one of my very irregular clean ups.
ps. That previous thread on this subject gave some great info too. Thanks.
-- Edited by Cupie on Monday 1st of May 2017 02:45:45 PM
Thankyou everyone I think the problem is solved. I sent an email to Coast to Coast at 8:30 this morning had a reply by 9:30 from Sam. He suggedted cleaning the electrodes and checking the gap is no more than 3mm. Also clean the mounting point with sand paper etc. Lights and stays alight first go all day. Lets see what happens in tge morning.
Thanks for the last link it answered the question as to why there is no thermocouple per se.
This should go in the C to C Suburban FAQs.
Thankyou everyone I think the problem is solved. I sent an email to Coast to Coast at 8:30 this morning had a reply by 9:30 from Sam. He suggedted cleaning the electrodes and checking the gap is no more than 3mm. MopAlso clean the mounting point with sand paper etc. Lights and stays alight first go all day. Lets see what happens in tge morning.
Thanks for the last link it answered the question as to why there is no thermocouple per se.
This should go in the C to C Suburban FAQs.
Cleaning the ijnitor and other probe a d adjusting gap worked. HWS lit first go and continued burning ss ut should. Happy wife as thry say.
Thsnks agsin for everyone's advice.
