I certainly didn't mean to trivialise the potential effects of an electric shock, anyone who has suffered to bite of an electronic ignition coil will remember the difference compared to the old points ignition bite, the recovery takes a lot longer and more than just the initial pain is involved, the difference in current is the issue not the voltage. The bite from a 48v battery can be remembered by more than just the burn mark left, many 12v ski boat batteries have been dropped because they were picked up by the terminals with wet hands and a wet body, yet dry hands and there is no feel of even a tingle. I certainly wouldn't consider grabbing the positive and negative in each hand from even a 100w 12v nom. panel facing the sun, but one on the workshop bench or with towel over it, not a concern at all.
Electrical safety requires the brain to be functioning all the time, it is a guaranteed method of flushing the gene pool ;)
T1 Terry
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Thanks for the apology on the Tracer 3210. The OP was uncertain so more confusion was not needed. It would do his job.
As far as the lethal voltage goes, I have in previous times done some training courses on this very subject and have been told 60V can be a lethal voltage in some circumstances. I would consider 90v well up there and if the voltage is applied to one hand and the other hand is earthed the possibility of fibulation of the heart is real as the current passes that area. Soo not likely I will play with it. I say there is a real current available from those panels eg up to 5 A. Earth leakage units are set to only 30milli amps for safety.
Here is one site, lots out there with an opinion : https://www.physics.ohio-state.edu/~p616/safety/fatal_current.html
Cheers Jaahn
PS Just for light relief I once worked on an old ship with 180 V DC system. Man you had to be careful with that, and did those wires burn out in a spectacular fashion on the deck gear, when the insulation failed with the salt water and the metal ducting and boxes. They would burn back about 50mm of say, 12mm dia cable with a very visible burn mark Not too hard to find.
The boss blew the main board fuse one day, 800Amp rated. Everyone heard it all over the ship and came running. Not a short actually, but switched the small emergency generator onto the system with reversed polarity hmmm...
-- Edited by Jaahn on Wednesday 19th of July 2017 10:13:28 PM
Hi Jaahn
I know what you mean about those big arcs
The 1st year of my apprenticeship was in the ship repair part of the Co [ Dry dock & wharf side repair to war ships & subs ]
We had 110 & 220V Dc mg converter units[around 100Kwatts each from what I can remember] to supply shore power while the ships /Subs etc where laid up
Not much in the way of armoured cables available , so most was just large vir cables .
I heard & have seen those old style 500A fuses go off under short circuit & what was left of the cables
There are MULTI outlet A.C. chargers.
IE 2 or three Battery's on individual outlets points from same charger.
I have a 3 outlet for yrs. Works well.
Will charge UP To 3 batt's to their float point.
Combined. UP TO It's total output. (mine 25a)
AT the same time.
Surely there is a DC unit that does same thing??.
Also have an old "Trace" C Series 35A. Multi,Function DC Controller
Temp conpensation. POT adjustable.
That combines and controls. Solar. Wind Genny. to battery's. with load cut out.
Load diversion to water heaters etc. also divert to Dump loads.
PWM 3 stage. '99 model.
Those 2 were Highest tech avail in those days in marine field.
Controlled my 42ft yacht very well in those days with the then, current panel sizes.
AC\DC water tank. ALWAYs hot water for showers. and often on float.