DIESEL OIL GRADES

Dougwe · Chief one feather

DIESEL OIL GRADES

JeffRae · Guru

"A mate of mine back in VIC is a diesel mechanic and said stay with the 5w30."

Why would you change with a diesel mechanic recommendation?

JeffRae

Hey Jim · Guru

Hi Doug,

I do all my own oil/filter changes @5000km, wherever I may be at the time. With my 2012 200TTD Diesel V8 it drinks 9.3lts at each change. I had been using Mobil1 5/30w Full Synthetic till it just got to expensive to use.

I now buy Penrite 10lt drums of 5w/40w enviro+ Full Synthetic. Drain of 700ml from each drum, before each trip X 3. So I can save counting off 9 single cups plus 300ml. smile

Getting back on track. I have not noticed any change in fuel usage or performance to date 105,000km.

Synthetic oils are IMO, way out in front of any Mineral oil the market.

You like most of us do a lot of towing. That motor works hard. The oil is the life of your engine. Look after it, as tugs don't come cheap. Oil is still coming down with competition.

Hope this helps.

Jim

-- Edited by Hey Jim on Tuesday 18th of July 2017 07:55:36 AM

Jaahn · Guru

Hi smile

A good question. I suppose my normal answer would be to ask the manufacturer ? But it is not so simple. Does the manufacturer give a range of oil recommendations for your engine. In the older days there was a table of oil recommendations to choose from. You also could look for the overseas recommendations. If it is the same as here for a very much cooler climate that includes below zero winters, then it would be reasonable to say IMHO that running a grade thicker in northern Australia would seem good to me.

The advantages of thinner oil have to be balanced against protection in extreme circumstances. Seems that towing a van in summer here is getting up there IMHO, and more important than some other things wink

Jaahn

-- Edited by Jaahn on Tuesday 18th of July 2017 07:43:51 AM

Craig1 · Guru

Go to Google and type in netlube , this will then show you most oil brands, where you can "drill down" to most models and years etc for all oils,fluids etc. 5w-30 is not too bad, try finding 0w-30 anywhere except in the dealers workshop. Guess thats the price for owning Tojo. Craig

Big Mal · Senior Member

I run a 2013 Colorado and use a 5W40 or 10W40 grade oil usually Penrite, changed at 10K have found it runs well, running in QLD mostly the 40 is more suited to the temps encountered winter or summer, over 125K so far, also change the auto every 35 to 40K as it works hard and the Holden schedule is ludicrous I reckon...............40 yrs looking after my own and they have never failed me, did put it in to a mechanic I trusted to replace the timing belt recently, the thought of pulling off all the crap filled me with dread, changed it earlier than the reco 150K just to be safer next trip.

Warren-Pat_01 · Guru

I noticed an article in a C&MH magazine a year or so ago - written by the chaps at Berrimah Diesel. They made mention that the finer oils in European designed engines (for European conditions) should not be used in Australia BUT they didn't say what to use here. They did say the hopeless new oil change periods (15-20,000 kms) are a recipe for disaster.

Warren

kesa32 · Senior Member

Hi Doug , Super Cheap have the valvoline you use plus penrite 5w30 and 5w40 synthetics , i do my own changes , and have been using penrite hpr5 ....seems fine , and yes , better to do more than the recommended interals

macka17 · Guru

Every 10k with any donk. WITH filter.
Personally.
I use Castrol Professional Magnatec
10\40. Full Synth. 20 ltr drums from oil depots
.Makes it a fair bit cheaper.

Vehicles live in QLD\Territory.
NO cold climes nowadays.. Fly down and back.

1 20l Does mine plus 2 x Civic. Or 2 x D-Max
with a cupful left over.
Every second drum= 1 x extra change for Civic.
Around $170ish a drum. last one.

kesa32 · Senior Member

Agree Macka , 10k or less is good....yeah the Castrol pro is good drop too :)

Hetho · Senior Member

Hi All.

A very interesting topic; as we are all trying to look after our investment. Like most I have been been doing my own servicing since the end of warranty.

I have a Toyota Landcruiser 200 series TTD, 2013 plated.

I have been a customer of Auto West in Mandurah WA for a few decades and have been trusting their advise and assistance.

So here is the delima.

I have been advised that after 100,000 km`s the recommended oil from their chart(recommended oils chart)

Is: Penrite HPR Diesel 15, 15W-50, Fully synthetic.

Your thoughts please.

Regards.

Hetho.

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

Modern higher Reving ( single rail ) diesels have tighter clearances due to EPA . If oil is too high visc ? The oil particularly when cold . Won't circulate properly especially in valve train .. They also have oil coolers or heaters to keep temps safe .. One tip I have found which helps for easy filter change .. Some have a nut welded to bottom which makes it hell easier to change .. Modern engines tent to have higher volume oil pumps, tighter bearing clearances , why they use a thinner oil.. The oil in my GT is only 5/20 ...

Dougwe · Chief one feather

Well, thankyou one and all for very constructive interesting replies so far. Everyone has been helpful and friendly, not one nasty reply.

Now, what to use? At this stage I will stick with the Valvolene 5w30 but I am interested in the Nulon and Castrol oils mentioned so will look into those further. Cos oils aint oils Sol.

Now that I have no warranty or free services left I have just changed from 15,000 to 10,000km intervals and filter will get changed each time. Just not by Holden.

Keep the replies coming as they are all helpful.

-- Edited by Dougwe on Tuesday 18th of July 2017 09:21:42 PM

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

Yes the main thing is to change the oil often.. Oops filters too !!

macka17 · Guru

Any top level oils is good oils. Basically.

Just tend to use FULL Synthetic. Over Minmerals
IF you can afford.

Even the older models like the Synthetics,
especially if running round up here in the North.

NEVER change filters Every SECOND oil change.
That's just for car MFG economy on paper to help sales.

What's the point in running Clean oil through a dirty worn filter.
Just reverts the oil quality.

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

Hell yes especially with the carbon etc in Diesel engines !! Oil doesn't stay clean even like petrol engines although its been said the oil is doing its job detergent / cleaning wise if it's black !!

Jaahn · Guru

Hi smile

Just a reminder of what the 5w-30, 5W-40 etc means. You probably all know this. All oil is thicker when it is cold and gets thinner as it warms up, that's the nature of it. But the rate of it getting thinner is reduced in modern oils so the dual numbers show how that is controlled compared to the old oil numbers.

If the oil says 5W then it behaves like a thin 5 oil WHEN COLD, IE when you start the engine. So any 5 grade oil will be similar flow around the engine then. But as the engine warms up the oil gets thinner until it reaches operating temperature. Then it is like a 30 or 40 grade behaviour. A 40 will be thicker than a 30 but remember both are thinner than when they were cold. If the temperature get higher due to sever conditions the 40 will continue to thin out less than the 30 in the working parts of the engine where it is actually hotter than the controlled overall engine temperature. hmm

So just pointing out the realities of viscosity numbers. Some people think it means the oil gets thicker as it gets hot ?? Not so ! However there is more than the oil to help maintain the oil film under load. Additives are put in to help with that too. Better oils should have better quality "stuff" in there also to help.

Jaahn confuse

iana · Guru

When I was at work, I did the exercise of looking up and buying the different oils for the vehicles. The new vehicles are asking for some very specific specifications, one being Volkswagon, who have their own spec, and the Ford Ranger/Mazda BT50 ask for 5w-30 c5. The oil type is in the vehicles user manual, and I would run with that. Valvoline's web site has a system or determining the oil type for your vehicle. I think the Colarado has a C4 spec, and the Izuzu takes pretty much a common standard diesel oil.

iana · Guru

For your information, www.datateck.com.au/lube/valv_auMS/

Dougwe · Chief one feather

Thanks again everyone. Ian according to that link I need and am now using the one below. Not cheap though. I can't seem to find it in 10lt. Two 5lt bottles leaves enough left over for a top up if needed.

1186.05 SynPower MST 5W-30 5L.jpg

Dougwe · Chief one feather

Jaahn wrote:
Hi
Just a reminder of what the 5w-30, 5W-40 etc means. You probably all know this. All oil is thicker when it is cold and gets thinner as it warms up, that's the nature of it. But the rate of it getting thinner is reduced in modern oils so the dual numbers show how that is controlled compared to the old oil numbers.
If the oil says 5W then it behaves like a thin 5 oil WHEN COLD, IE when you start the engine. So any 5 grade oil will be similar flow around the engine then. But as the engine warms up the oil gets thinner until it reaches operating temperature. Then it is like a 30 or 40 grade behaviour. A 40 will be thicker than a 30 but remember both are thinner than when they were cold. If the temperature get higher due to sever conditions the 40 will continue to thin out less than the 30 in the working parts of the engine where it is actually hotter than the controlled overall engine temperature.
So just pointing out the realities of viscosity numbers. Some people think it means the oil gets thicker as it gets hot ?? Not so ! However there is more than the oil to help maintain the oil film under load. Additives are put in to help with that too. Better oils should have better quality "stuff" in there also to help.
Jaahn

Jaahn, please keep in mind that Uncle Al gets up before me a lot of the time, the mongrel.

If I read all that correctly, I could safely use 5w40 ? As I am in the warmer climates most of the time. It has aslo been mentioned above about warmer weather.

Dougwe · Chief one feather

JeffRae wrote:
"A mate of mine back in VIC is a diesel mechanic and said stay with the 5w30."
Why would you change with a diesel mechanic recommendation?
JeffRae

Good comment JeffRae, I only asked as the more info gained the better armed I will be in the future. I will chat to my mate again though if I decide to go with anything different.

My mate hasn't worked much with the newer diesels as he has been driving buses for many years now and not mechainc work, just friends and family stuff.

macka17 · Guru

Only trouble being there.
Is. Unless they changed their quality.
Valvolene WAS one of the cheaper oils. Quality and cost wise.

We never used it in the performance engines. Car.Bike or marine.

Too many had problems,
This is yrs ago mind.

From it's Previous rep alone.
I wouldn't have it in any thing of mine that rotates thank you.

Things are normally at the bottom of the price list for a reason.

2010 D-Max. Old school engine. Modern fuel system.

I used NULON 15-40 Mineral this time round.

Just to try it.

Slightly''Noisier". No difference economy, Performance wise

90k on clock.

No burning t'ween changes yet.

THIS oil IS recommended for these older design donks.

NOT so fine tolerances.

2 oil Co Rep's from their 'Tech Services"

actually said do NOT use the thin Synth's in this donk. ?

I might stick with it for a while and just use the Castrol on Di's Civic.

Lawnmower, Trimmer, and Genny.

-- Edited by macka17 on Wednesday 19th of July 2017 10:50:06 AM

iana · Guru

An interesting point here is that the 30, being thinner than the 40 (full synthetic) would cause less resistance throughout the motor, which apparently equates to fuel savings. An interesting point is that on studying my service work sheet for the vehicle, I saw that they were not using the recommended oil (5w-30 c5) but were using the OK alternative 5w-40 c4 cheaper and supplied in bulk, then adding their additives to it and then charging me for the privilege.
I got the recommended oil and had them use that. Now I have a new engine, that wasted that oil, but when the engine has its 1000km service, I will be using the better oil. Keep an eye on the specials it sometimes comes up.

macka17 · Guru

Ian.

Supercheap up here often has good TOP oils at near 1\2 price in 5 and 10 ltrs.
Sometimes even cheaper than Depot prices in 20 ltrs.

Hey.
I bought coupla sets of "silicon" wiper blades for the 2 cars a while ago
$40 per BLADE. ($80 for a D-Max)
They'd better be worth it. Time will tell hey.

PS. I've ALWAYS supplied my own oils for sericing.

The ONLY way to be sure you getting the FULL Synthetics

in Tranfers, Axles, Brakes, Steering. etc.

I often walk round the back of wkshops of new service (to me) joints.

Very few of them have the Full SYnthetic oils in their bulk 200ltr drums.

Regardless of what they charge for.

I always have a plastic tub in rear

for them to put ALL exchanged parts into too.

Filters, the lot.

Hopefully Keeps them honest.

-- Edited by macka17 on Wednesday 19th of July 2017 11:00:43 AM

oldbloke · Guru

If I recall correctly 5 is the viscosity when hot and 30/40 is viscosity when cold. So the higher number is only relevant upon start or the first 5 or 10 minutes. So there would be no fuel efficiency gains.

I've been out of the trade a long time but I doubt there would be any real difference in performance between the two.

Let's face it. If you live at Mt Buffalo you will be using 5/30. What happens if you drive to Darwin for 6 months. Nobody bothers to tell the mechanic or rush off and change their oil.

oldbloke · Guru

This is from my i30 manual. Notice the temperature overlap. It isn't all that critical. Mainly hype to sell more expensive oils. Provided the average ambient temperature is within the guide the oil is OK to use. Just check your manual.

Jaahn · Guru

oldbloke wrote:
If I recall correctly 5 is the viscosity when hot and 30/40 is viscosity when cold. So the higher number is only relevant upon start or the first 5 or 10 minutes. So there would be no fuel efficiency gains.

I've been out of the trade a long time but I doubt there would be any real difference in performance between the two.

Let's face it. If you live at Mt Buffalo you will be using 5/30. What happens if you drive to Darwin for 6 months. Nobody bothers to tell the mechanic or rush off and change their oil.

Hi oldbloke smile

Sorry your memory is going. 5 is the number when cold and 30/40 when hot aww

Looking at the oil table for your i30 diesel motor, I note the 0w-30 is only recommended for use up to about 10deg C. The Xw-40 only up to 40 deg. Then they recommend a 15w-40. So why not use a 5w-40 and cover it all, might be my answer.

I refuse to go anywhere I might require oil for -10 or below, biggrin -20 is unknown to me and will remain so forever!!!

Jaahn

oldbloke · Guru

Mmmmm. Hot, cold? That threw me into a spin. Will look into that!

" Then they recommend a 15w-40. So why not use a 5w-40 and cover it all, might be my answer. "
That was my main point. Both oils may be OK in QLD for his car.

Big Mal · Senior Member

Used Valvoline for about 30 yrs but when I moved into diesel power found the Valvoline Syn oil was too expensive and hard to find in big size containers, went to Penrite as I could buy 10 or 20lt drums, excellant oil...buy from Repco or Supercheap when they have the 25 or 30% off save heaps of $$$$$.

If your vehicle has a DPF then you have to be picky about the oil or it clogs up, problem being then is you keep getting lights flashing on dash or it may go limp mode, my 13 Colorado doesn't have that rubbish fitted so basically any 5 or 10W40 syn or semi syn diesel oil B4 above will do the job.

Your oil will last for 20 or 30K easy as, change the filter every 5 or 10K just depends on the type of driving, long distance stuff a good quality oil will go the distance, city driving is what clags them up, just saying that so if away changing the filter on time is the important bit.

Buy my filters from Western Filters in bulk the saving is HUGE...............$80 for eng, air, fuel add $40 for Tranny..........