our van has been laid up for about 3 1/2 years with the weight on the wheels in that time. Had some weight sported by jacks but still a significant weight on the wheels. Question what do people think about replacing the wheel bearings? We are leaving soon for a 2 year journey thru WA.
I would appreciate your thoughts
briche
Brian
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You only live once, but if you live it right, once is enough !!!!!!
Personally I would replace bearing and seals, they only cost just over $20 for each wheel (inner and outer bearing and seal) plus the grease will need changing which requires a new seal if you keep the old bearings. You can also get a good idea of the condition the brakes are in whilst the drums are off.
I can never understand why people repack wheel bearings. First you need to fit new seals in both cases and the cost of 4 bearing sets against the cost and damage done by a failed bearing. The time to wash out and check bearings is not commercially viable. I also reckon most average people would not know the correct way to check a bearing for wear or to pick up slight sign of damage from not rotating regularly
cheers
blaze
No you don't need to replace seal . Most fail due to no grease or salt water in bearing as in boat trailers etc . If you replace bearing ? Use it for a few days before long trip !' New bearings can fail also !! Btw sitting in one spot is not hard on bearings .
our van has been laid up for about 3 1/2 years with the weight on the wheels in that time. Had some weight sported by jacks but still a significant weight on the wheels. Question what do people think about replacing the wheel bearings? We are leaving soon for a 2 year journey thru WA.
I would appreciate your thoughts
briche
Brian
Hi Brian.
Option 1: Replacing with new bearing and seals is good advice.
If you know what you doing you can do the work yourself if not get a mechanic to service them.
Option 2: Clean the bearings and outer bearing cups and inspect any signs of overheating pitting or breakdown of case Harding. Make sure everything is spotless no contamination what so ever.
Replace if required repack properly with (HTB) wheel bearing grease replace new seals.
I know I am long winded but either do it properly let the pros do them.
Note: just repacking the bearings is not good enough for me.
For those of you, who do like to get to know how things work as I do. (we just returned from Exmouth WA with the boat for the sixth round trip). =65,000km
I have a super way of cleaning your wheel bearings in less then 10 seconds. one bucket, a couple of cut rags and two cans of Export degreaser. In my left hand I hold a rag with one bearing resting on it. Then I hit it with the Degreaser Blows TOTAL all old grease out in seconds, Check each one and repack em.
NO Mechanic will inspect/ repack bearings like I do. I made my own dust cap installer to save time. Its fool proof to boot. Puts em back on good and square.
For those of you, who do like to get to know how things work as I do. (we just returned from Exmouth WA with the boat for the sixth round trip). =65,000km
I have a super way of cleaning your wheel bearings in less then 10 seconds. one bucket, a couple of cut rags and two cans of Export degreaser. In my left hand I hold a rag with one bearing resting on it. Then I hit it with the Degreaser Blows TOTAL all old grease out in seconds, Check each one and repack em.
NO Mechanic will inspect/ repack bearings like I do. I made my own dust cap installer to save time. Its fool proof to boot. Puts em back on good and square.
With the van bearings having not moved for 3 1/2 years, what will happen is the downward weight of the van forces the grease out from between the rollers and the race, there is then a metal to metal contact, and together with a bit of electrolysis the race and rollers will get a line of corrosion on them.
You could remove the bearings and clean them, inspecting for corrosion, and if good re-pack and continue using them. Its a real pain cleaning the grease off the bearings, especially if you don't have the facilities. New seals and split pins yes.
You could also just knock out the races and put new bearings in, your choice, but it is important to make sure the races are fully home, either way, I would certainly inspect or replace the bearings after all that time.
Repack or replace, if you know how then as stated check and repack if not get someone to do it and watch them as the knowledge is valuable for on the road, myself I give the wheels a spin every so often and do a bearing check every 10K, have spares which I pack and vac seal so they are ready to go if needed.........a must to have in the spares box, if you don't know what to do on the road the mechanic you call will be pleased you have a set handy.
Coromals have the bearing and seal part numbers in their manuals, others may require a look at the bearing to get the numbers off as not all vans even of the same model have the same set.
Most important if someone does any work on your wheels/brakes/bearings check the wheels nuts before you go anywhere, a lot of wheels fall off because of this.
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Checking out the places I drove past a thousand times................
Clean, inspect, repack, and go. A spare pair of ready greased bearings should be in the spares kit, anyway. I have been known to put in the clean regressed set before a long drive home from the boat ramp.
Iza
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Iza
Semi-permanent state of being Recreationally Outraged as a defence against boredom during lockdown.
Personally I would be more concerned about the tyres failing if they have been sitting that long in one spot, check out how old they are there is a four digit number Moulded on the side of them indicating the week and the year they were made
Ie 2612. = 26th week of 2012 if they are older that 5-6 years I would replace them myself after 7 years they can not legally be repaired if punctured, however I would be more worried about them blowing out and doing damage to my van.
By all means check the bearings , but as I said I would be more concerned about the tyres .
Woody
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When the power of Love becomes greater than the love of power the World will see peace ! 24ft Trailblazer 5th wheeler n 05 Patrol ute and Black Series Dominator camper trailer ( for the rough stuff)
1: Remove, clean and inspect then refer to all above!
My concern would be if any moisture is inside the bearing and hub (and this does happen often), after several years of no use rust may have developed onto the bearing roller and the race itself, very common. If this is the case throw away and replace
cheers
Ian
More bearings fail from little or no grease . Just re packing or even putting some around them is enough to save them failing . Mechanics often don't use much grease ? If they spin quietly before removal ? We've never had issues with wheel bearing failure due to serving before trips or checking every year or so . I don't clean too much of the old grease out . If it's contaminated ? Then I replace bearings , race and seal . Not too often though due to plenty good maintenance ! Strangely enough it's often the tandom axles that need more adjustment . Assume it's the twisting ?
Seals should be replaced each time they are removed, not meant to be re used in the smaller mechanical applications, the seals are extremely cheap.
cheers, all makes interesting reading
Ian
Would there be any benefit in fitting " Bearing Buddies " ( as used on many boat trailers ) in place of standard bearing caps on caravans, as this might keep the grease up to the bearings.
Would there be any benefit in fitting " Bearing Buddies " ( as used on many boat trailers ) in place of standard bearing caps on caravans, as this might keep the grease up to the bearings.
Thanks Rob.
Problem is if you have drum brakes - over-enthusiatic greasing can result in grease getting on the brakes.
I normally change bearings every two yrs (when using van regularly. Repacking every alternate yr.
Dish of Kero. and 1 or 1\2 in brush. Grease just dissolves out of bearings.
Check for "corrosion) basically. wad if grease in left palm. back end of bearing Facing away\toward you. Depending on whether you push or pull the cage through the grease. Forcing it into roller cage.
Just repeat as slowly turning it round in hand. AS the grease appears at other end of bearing cage at that point.
Simple. and messy.
and keep complete hub FULL of grease. Always have. Packed tight.
Bearing buddy's.
You COULD force grease through rear seal with G Gun?.
Some say overkill. I say. In 50 odd yrs. never had a sick bearing.
The price of them. It's pretty irrelevant hey.
-- Edited by macka17 on Thursday 27th of July 2017 01:52:23 PM
Would there be any benefit in fitting " Bearing Buddies " ( as used on many boat trailers ) in place of standard bearing caps on caravans, as this might keep the grease up to the bearings.
Thanks Rob.
Hi Rob,
A Plain NO. Bearing Buddies can and do fall off, again and again. The outer cap is spring loaded. People seem to think if they pump them up hard, then all is good. Not So.
The pressure pushes the rear seal out and you will lose a fair amout of your grease.
Lose a cap and the grease will spin out in a very short while. The result been a seized wheel, or wheel gone. Try to find a missing wheel in longish grass/ bush.
I have used BB's, Sea Bears in Transmission hubs, like the trucks use. I came back to the original dust caps.I fill my hubs total by hand, then after replacing the callist nut and pin. I fill the dust cap with grease as well, before installing, using a square 50mm x 50mm x 150mm offcut of gal steel fencing post.
The caps go on square first time every time. Its a good bit of kit.
I have never had one fail me yet, doing this way.
Jim
-- Edited by Hey Jim on Thursday 27th of July 2017 02:39:59 PM
I have not met anyone who would fit bearing buddies again. I have been offered several sets of bearing buddies, free and second hand. A set of cleaned, freshly greased bearings, swapped in regularly also gives you the chance to have a good look at the state of all that running gear.
Iza
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Iza
Semi-permanent state of being Recreationally Outraged as a defence against boredom during lockdown.
The original idea of bearing buddies was to have the bearings filled with grease under pressure between the seals to avoid water ingress. Not really appropriate for a caravan but they could be of assistance with a small amount of grease added through the nipple occasionally. We've owned a 17ft boat for 20 years. After sitting idle for a long time we'd be replacing your old one's. A small amount of money to save a major hassle in a remote area.
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Cheers Keith & Judy
Don't take life too seriously, it never ends well.
Trip Reports posted on feathersandphotos.com.au Go to Forums then Trip Reports.
Last note use a rubber band around the electromagnet will prevent it falling out of position when you refit the hub.
My bearings aren't cheap (the large ones) about $100 a wheel with seals so make sure you get the right numbers if you are ordering, Jayco gave me the wrong bearing numbers (small size were about $30) and they had the serial number of our van so pull them out and check numbers first before ordering (specially on ebay)
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Brian & Nada retired and > "Ready to live the Dream" Live in the Shire!
76 series V8 Landcrab with Jayco Starcraft Outback Poptop
Pull em out and clean,,, the answer will be there. Clean with kero and brush and blow out with air and DRY THOROUHLY.
KEEP THEM IN THEIR RELEVANT POSTITIONS IE SAME WHEEL - THE CONES (bearings) ARE "RUN IN" WITH THE THEIR RELEVANT CUPS, so keep em together.
No corrosion, pitting, burning markings you then decide IF you have the expertise to repack and refit. If so go ahead preferably with new seals (they do harden over the years).
If you need to buy new ones PLEASE get good quality bearings and once again if you have expertise to pack em go ahead.
Otherwise take to garage Brian.
Hope this makes sense.
Cheers Baz
PS: As someone has said previously tyres may be an issue.
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Why is it so? Professor Julius Sumner Miller, a profound influence on my life, who explained science to us on TV in the 60's.
