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Post Info TOPIC: Generator wont run microwave through van wiring
Armo


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Generator wont run microwave through van wiring
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Hi this is my first timeon this site.  Can someone please help me work out this problem.  I have a 2012 Franklin 19 foot van with a microwave that draws 1250 amps, I am trying to run it off my Yamaha inverter 2kva 1600 amps continuous or a 2000 watt pure sine inverter again 1600 watts continuous. .  When I plug either power source into the van input via a new heavy duty lead it will only run for about 5 seconds before cutting out. I have tried 2 different leads However if I connect it via lead direct to microwave it runs on both power sources. Any advice will be appreciated. 



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John Armstrong
Aus-Kiwi


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Getting watts and volts mixed up .

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Armo


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Sorry watts in all cases

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PeterD


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Armo wrote:

 I have a 2012 Franklin 19 foot van with a microwave that draws 1250 amps,

 Is that the cooking power or the input power. If it is the cooking power you have not taken the efficiency of the equipment. The magnetron in the oven is only 60% efficient at the best so the unit will draw more than 1250 when running.



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PeterD
Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top
Retired radio and electronics technician.
NSW Central Coast.

 
dragonfly1


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Your hot water service is probably switched on and your battery charger they won't run everything at once one at a time 

Dragonfly1



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Armo


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Thanks for your thoughts I have been chasing this for a while and eliminated hopefully most things. Firstly the microwave is a 800 watt, input is 1250 according to the manual and an in line watt meter. Every thing is switched off hot water, fridge, battery charger. This is confirmed when I start the generator and set econo it runs at idle ie no load has been put on it , however when I turn any appliance on eg toaster microwave it goes to full revs indicating prior to turning on these appliances there had been no draw from the generator. I was a auto mechanic and auto elect for 40 years but this one has me baffled. A good friend of mine who is a electrician says it cant be but it is happening. I have by passed the vans input circuits for the microwave and connected it direct and all is well but I would love to know where its going wrong in the vans wiring system. Thanks

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John Armstrong
Armo


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One other question does tow bar ball weight lessen when you attach a load leveling hitch. Thank you

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John Armstrong
Armo


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Back to the microwave problem is it posdible the van wiring is on its limits that is ok for shore power but to much resistance due to small wire size to handle my power sources that have only just enough power?

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John Armstrong
PeterD


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Armo wrote:

One other question does tow bar ball weight lessen when you attach a load leveling hitch. Thank you

 No, the only way you can lessen the bal weight is to redistribute the load in the van. The reason the rear of the tug rises when you put the bars on is because they transfer some of the weigh that was originally on the rear axle to the front axle of the tug and the vans axles. That's why the correct name for the hitch is a WDH (weight distribution hitch.) The following is an actual demonstration done at the Melbourne caravan show by HR. In each case add the weights of the two van axles and see how the WDH redistributes the ball load.

HR WDH display.jpg



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PeterD
Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top
Retired radio and electronics technician.
NSW Central Coast.

 
PeterD


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Armo wrote:

Back to the microwave problem is it posdible the van wiring is on its limits that is ok for shore power but to much resistance due to small wire size to handle my power sources that have only just enough power?

 If the wiring in the van is at fault then I suggest that it requires attention or replacement. One check you can do is to see if the inlet socket heats up just before the microwave ceases working



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PeterD
Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top
Retired radio and electronics technician.
NSW Central Coast.

 
Barboots


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Disregard



-- Edited by Barboots on Friday 25th of August 2017 04:40:43 PM

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KFT


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G'day,

from my own experience the issue with your M/wave not working on the genny is due to the eco throttle being active. If you switch this off the oven should work fine.

I am sure it is to do with the lag time from the load coming on and the genny matching the load.

mine works fine on my Eu20i if I disable the eco while we use the oven.

Frank

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Avagreatday.

Kathy and Frank currently at Home near Quirindi NSW
PeterInSa


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Re (Every thing is switched off hot water, fridge, battery charger.)

I would also pull the plugs out of their sockets especially the Hot water system, just in case a switch is faulty.

Do you have an earth leakage switch, (not sure if that's the correct term) if not you suggest you have one installed, it may show up an appliance/cabling/switch fault.

Peter

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Aus-Kiwi


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Yes I would say combo of economy mode and start up current draw from m/wave ?

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Peter_n_Margaret


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Engage the services of a qualified electrician before you burn the van to the ground, or worse.

Cheers,
Peter

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Armo


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All fixed. I replaced the input plug. Thanks for all the suggestions

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John Armstrong
Possum3


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PeterInSa wrote:

Re (Every thing is switched off hot water, fridge, battery charger.)

I would also pull the plugs out of their sockets especially the Hot water system, just in case a switch is faulty.

Do you have an earth leakage switch, (not sure if that's the correct term) if not you suggest you have one installed, it may show up an appliance/cabling/switch fault.

Peter

Peter I think you are referring to an RCD (Residual Current Device). Cheap on E Bay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Powertech-15A-to-10A-Converter-Adapter-RCD-suits-Caravan-15-Amp-to-10-Amp-/171452731309?epid=1038012385&hash=item27eb610fad:g:TBYAAOSwCQZZLzWA 

 Perhaps you should also check polarity on GPO's cheap tester from E Bay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CABAC-Power-Point-GPO-Tester-AC-230V-Safety-Polarity-Earth-Leakage-RCD-TEL1TLV2/262226188620?epid=5003305779&hash=item3d0de6194c%3Ag%3AE4IAAOSwGtRX0itv 



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oldtrack123


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Possum3 wrote:
PeterInSa wrote:

Re (Every thing is switched off hot water, fridge, battery charger.)

I would also pull the plugs out of their sockets especially the Hot water system, just in case a switch is faulty.

Do you have an earth leakage switch, (not sure if that's the correct term) if not you suggest you have one installed, it may show up an appliance/cabling/switch fault.

Peter

Peter I think you are referring to an RCD (Residual Current Device). Cheap on E Bay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Powertech-15A-to-10A-Converter-Adapter-RCD-suits-Caravan-15-Amp-to-10-Amp-/171452731309?epid=1038012385&hash=item27eb610fad:g:TBYAAOSwCQZZLzWA 

 Perhaps you should also check polarity on GPO's cheap tester from E Bay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CABAC-Power-Point-GPO-Tester-AC-230V-Safety-Polarity-Earth-Leakage-RCD-TEL1TLV2/262226188620?epid=5003305779&hash=item3d0de6194c%3Ag%3AE4IAAOSwGtRX0itv 

 

A RCD is not functional with a plugged in generator

A RVD gives full protection from shocks to earth



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