A well crimped terminal with shrink-wrap is preferable to solder. Auto manufacturers and trade always crimp.That solder makes a better join is mythical.In many cases it is the beginning of the corrosion process.

Multi strand\Electrical current. Solder all the way. up to around 1\4 inch.

Crimping better above that.

I have a crimper BUT not wide enuff jaws. Every time I crimped an Anderson
I got a Banana crimp.

I ended up using an old 18in Bolt cutter used for cutting Yacht rigging.
Welded a piece on each cut out in jaw so they didn't slice just compress.
Purrfect every time now.

Craig1 wrote:

---

Just purchased and used a Anderson plug terminal crimping tool. 50A Cable Crimper LUG LS16, $27.00 delivered. from Autoelec.com.au in Bairnsdale. Pre ratchet 1 click to hold terminal and clic away, auto release once done. leaves enough room for solder if you crimp in the middle. They say they use themselves in their workshop. No affiliation with me, but so far good value. cheers Craig

---

 Hi Craig1

I am not an electrician

If you are talking about this type of crimping tool from Autoelec
In this link here

I have a similar one, and they are very good

With Anderson type plugs, I use solder only
The method behind my madness is :-

I find that (while playing around), I can remove the wire from the lugs, using my el cheapo gas torch
This allows me to reuse the Anderson type plugs, on something else

On any open lugs, (which will not hold the solder), I crimp only

Not sure if this is the correct way to go about it, but it seems to work for me

Hi
Even crimped automotive connection can break from vibration . Typically happens when cable is not supported by extended connector , sticky heat shrink ,electrical wrap ,wrapped OEM loom and not affixed to body work . And even silicon can stop vibration .
If u solder properly not allowing solder to migrate up the cable [to stiffen it ] there should be no issues .