Thin Skin

Willdoe · Member

Thin Skin

Dickodownunder · Guru

Hi Willdoe,

Do a search for "peel rivets"

They open up like a banana peel when they are installed and you only need a standard pop rivet gun.

goo.gl/images/ERCXiQ

Hetho · Senior Member

Hi Willdoe.

As Dickodownunder has just mentioned the "Peel Rivets are good, however they may produce 3 small indentations from the rear as they set. They are ok if your material is reasonably thick, and they will crack fibreglass surfaces. I found out the hard way.

I have used the "Tri Fold" rivet throughout my van when I built it. They work the reverse to the Peel, as they fold out and concertina down when being set and form a flange being the surface.

I would suggest that you do a quick Google search and determine what best suits your situation.

Hope this helps.

Regards.

Hetho.

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

In Our old converted bus . The inner panels came out and we found any additions attached to outside had an alloy plate on inside . Either L bracket screwed or just sikoflexed depending on strength required ?

Willdoe · Member

Unfortunately I can't get behind to fit backing plates. I think I will look into those trifold rivets as suggested by Hetho. Looks like 3/16" is the smallest diameter. Thanks For replies.
Willdoe

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

My Explorer has a pop riveted and sikoflexed alloy plate on outside to spread the contact area.

Dickodownunder · Guru

Willdoe wrote:
Unfortunately I can't get behind to fit backing plates. I think I will look into those trifold rivets as suggested by Hetho. Looks like 3/16" is the smallest diameter. Thanks For replies.
Willdoe

The peel rivets wont dent the panel if the component that they are required to hold has a larger surface mounting area than the spread dimension of the rivet.

You can buy 1/8th inch peel rivets.

Blues Man · Guru

Thanks guys ,i didn't realise such pop rivets existed .

You learn something new everyday. smile smile

mr glassies · Guru

Be carful drilling into the outer skin in case of wires . I use a piece of copper tube only allowing a thickness of a match to go through the wall . As drilling through thin alloy when it bites it bites . I have seen a drill go through the outer skin and through cables and or the inner wall .

Dibs

Cupie · Guru

mr glassies wrote:
Be carful drilling into the outer skin in case of wires . I use a piece of copper tube only allowing a thickness of a match to go through the wall . As drilling through thin alloy when it bites it bites . I have seen a drill go through the outer skin and through cables and or the inner wall .

Dibs

When drilling thru the walls I fit a depth limiter to the drill.

Drill a hole through an appropriate length of doweling or scrap timber. Put your drill bit through it with just a little bit of drill protruding. The dowling stops the drill going in too far.

A bit of tape over the surface being drilled stops you scratching off any surface paint or whatever.

iana · Guru

Aus-Kiwi has the right idea, spread the load, a plate Sika-flexed in position can do that, or a backing plate, or a rib structure.