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Post Info TOPIC: Welding on van


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Welding on van


I cant say that I have ever welded much at all , and always thought that you had to disconnect your battery before welding on a car ? Is that the case or not and is it the same on a caravan , I want to get a cross bar added to my a / frame for attaching a bike holder , previously had them on the back and the bounce all round the place . So calling on any welding buffs .



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Just make sure the earth lead is attached as close as possible (ideally onto the piece to be welded), also make sure the eath contact is clean shiney steel to get good contact. The same applies to welding on vehicles but disconnecting the battery negative lead gives added security
cheers
blaze

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It wouldn't hurt to disconnect the battery if you are either MIG or Arc welding.
Also, ensure gas bottles are removed from the area, all combustibles, such as covers etc are removed and have an extinguisher on hand also.
The key is to ensure you have a really good earth as close to the weld site as possible. You might have to grind off some of the surface protection to attach your earth to and grind off the protection at the weld site.
Then treat all exposed metal and welds with a good coat of cold zinc once cool to prevent any rusting happening.

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mezza56 wrote:

I want to get a cross bar added to my a / frame for attaching a bike holder


Don't forget the wiring in the RHS of the A-frame. The caravan workshops remove and replace this for the duration of the process, although on one quick they flooded the frame with water for a quick weld.



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PeterD
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Don't forget that welding will weaken the metal and A frame, far better to clamp the rack into place after all it will compromise safety and resale value. But you know this already don't you.

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Kebbin



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I have had two instances in my career as a Fitter /Welder,  when welding on vehicles, Both were trucks.

Just doing  a Quick Weld far away from the battery.  She'll be right mate your only going to weld for 30 seconds.  Clean the metal and make a GOOD Earth for the clamp.

One Battery Blew the side wall out of the battery case with a very loud POP.  I was welding in the truck tipper tray.  

The other truck (years later)  was another quick  "She'll be right mate"  job. Earthing clamp on good clean metal by the weld.    That battery split with a soft POP.   I was laying under the Truck  on the concrete,  with the welding helmet on,    and got soaked with battery acid.

Always, ALLWAS,   disconnect them is my advice. 

For 10 minutes extra effort to disconnect and reconnect  the battery. Think of the$$$  for a replacement battery.

On the other hand  "She'll be right mate"   How many times have i heard that.



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Mike & Ellie



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If youve not done much welding before then dont weld. Use U bolts and clamp the cross beam for such items as bike racks etc.
You could do a lot of damage to the Aframe and create stress points even if the welds look OK. Plus you can remove it at a later date if you dont want it anymore without grinding it off causing even more issues.



-- Edited by Moonraker on Wednesday 3rd of January 2018 07:41:10 PM

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Hi Mezza56.

I agree with all the advise given, and should be considered.

However; "Never", "Never" weld across the chassis rails, always weld along the rail.

Cheers.

Hetho.



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Hetho wrote:

Hi Mezza56.

I agree with all the advise given, and should be considered.

However; "Never", "Never" weld across the chassis rails, always weld along the rail.

Cheers.

Hetho.


 how do you think chassis are extended

cheers

blaze



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Thxs for all the info guys , I wasn't going to weld it myself , sorry if I gave that impression , I was going to get it professionally done . I asked the question because I have twice seen a mobile welder come to the park and weld peoples vans without disconnecting the battery . Unless the owners did it before they got there . Anyway i hadn't considered u/bolts that may be a possibility . On the other hand on quite a few vans I have seen a cross member welded on an a/frame with the jockey wheel assembly attached and I assume that came from the manufacturer ? 



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All the above is valid advice and a qualified welder should be only too aware of these points , however one that no one has mad is make sure the tug is not connected as you my fry the engine control unit ECU and there is big $ in replacing them

Woody

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Kebbin wrote:

Don't forget that welding will weaken the metal and A frame, far better to clamp the rack into place after all it will compromise safety and resale value. But you know this already don't you.


 Hi Kebbinsmile

Professional welding will not weaken the metal or the A frame. The chassis and A frame is constructed by welding the individual metal pieces together at the factory. biggrin

The problem is with the "experts" who think they know how to lay down some metal with an arc. Sometimes that's all they do hmm

Jaahn



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As well as disconnecting the battery, disconnect your Sola (if fitted) using the 3 step disconnect method

Peter

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Jaahn wrote:
Kebbin wrote:

Don't forget that welding will weaken the metal and A frame, far better to clamp the rack into place after all it will compromise safety and resale value. But you know this already don't you.


 Hi Kebbinsmile

Professional welding will not weaken the metal or the A frame. The chassis and A frame is constructed by welding the individual metal pieces together at the factory. biggrin

The problem is with the "experts" who think they know how to lay down some metal with an arc. Sometimes that's all they do hmm

Jaahn


 Jaahn, you were obviously reading someone else's post as I didn't mention Professional Welders nor did the OP, having worked with Boilermakers however I would trust some of them as they usually have far more knowledge than the average welder professional or ticketed.



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Kebbin



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Weld short lengths at a time . Donât weld near 90* area . You will be fine .. Repaired many truck ( Proline) chassis.

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TAJ


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I WAS A BOILERMAKER FOR 47YEARS DONE A VARIETY OF JOBS

REMOVE EARTH FROM BATTERY  CLEAN WHERE EARTH CLAMP FROM WELDER IS TO BE CLAMPED  TIGHT

NEVER WELD ACROSS A DRAWBAR  JOINING CHASSIE STEEL FOR LENGHT  DOES NOT STRESS FRACTURE

WELDING ACROSS COULD CAUSE THE A FRAME TO CRACK BESIDE THE WELD



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TAJ


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I WAS A BOILERMAKER FOR 47YEARS DONE A VARIETY OF JOBS

REMOVE EARTH FROM BATTERY  CLEAN WHERE EARTH CLAMP FROM WELDER IS TO BE CLAMPED  TIGHT

NEVER WELD ACROSS A DRAWBAR  JOINING CHASSIE STEEL FOR LENGHT  DOES NOT STRESS FRACTURE

WELDING ACROSS COULD CAUSE THE A FRAME TO CRACK BESIDE THE WELD



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and if it has a crack across a chassis how do you fix it, with bubble gum?
cheers
blaze

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TAJ is correct. It is bad practice to weld across the grain on RHS (90deg to its length or acrodd the beam) if that RHS beam section is being used to take loading such as on an A frame.
Any repair to an existing crack in this situation would most likely involve welding steel plates to repair ensuring again that any welds are not placed across the grain thats if its not practical to cut out the cracked section and welding in new.
The manufacturing process of RHS and other tubular sections of steel create a product that is highly stressed good boilermakers and product design engineers will ensure fabrications made from these types of steel section are welded together taking this into consideration.

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blaze wrote:

and if it has a crack across a chassis how do you fix it, with bubble gum?
cheers
blaze


 You repair it with great care 

But best to get an experienced welder, who understands what welds can do to sections constantly being stressed

Ensuring that  you do not create stress raisers 

Make sure the weld is full penetration. but with no big lumps on the inside

 

Best done with MIG welding

Grind the  finished weld flush with the surface & then dye check it to make sure there are no cracks or lack of fusion 

You could consider a reinforcing plate over the weld area BUT if not done right can cause even more problems

From an Ex fully qualified class 1   welding supervisor of pressure vessels cranes etc etc

& as you asked such a question ,I suggest you do not weld any sections under stress from bending etc.



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blaze wrote:

and if it has a crack across a chassis how do you fix it, with bubble gum?
cheers
blaze


 You repair it with great care 

But best to get an experienced welder, who understands what welds can do to sections constantly being stressed

Ensuring that  you do not create stress raisers 

Make sure the weld is full penetration. but with no big lumps on the inside

 

Best done with MIG welding

Grind the  finished weld flush with the surface & then dye check it to make sure there are no cracks or lack of fusion 

You could consider a reinforcing plate over the weld area BUT if not done right can cause even more problems

From an Ex fully qualified class 1   welding supervisor of pressure vessels cranes etc etc

& as you asked such a question ,I suggest you do not weld any sections under stress from bending etc.



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Kebbin wrote:
Jaahn wrote:
Kebbin wrote:

Don't forget that welding will weaken the metal and A frame, far better to clamp the rack into place after all it will compromise safety and resale value. But you know this already don't you.


 Hi Kebbinsmile

Professional welding will not weaken the metal or the A frame. The chassis and A frame is constructed by welding the individual metal pieces together at the factory. biggrin

The problem is with the "experts" who think they know how to lay down some metal with an arc. Sometimes that's all they do hmm

Jaahn


 Jaahn, you were obviously reading someone else's post as I didn't mention Professional Welders nor did the OP, having worked with Boilermakers however I would trust some of them as they usually have far more knowledge than the average welder professional or ticketed.


 Having worked with  & supervising 100's of boiler makers, & Certified "A"  grade welders ,in the heavy steel fabrication industry [including pressure vessels for power houses, oil refineries , components for the pumps & turbines for SMEC [Tumit] & Wivenhoe  ] ,would not leave most of of them anywhere near critical welding



-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 5th of January 2018 12:07:53 AM

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mezza, "U" bolts to attach to the "A" frame would be the safest, then welding of the attached frame, anyone could do it who was a competent welder.

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TAJ


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I suppose oldtrack is referring about  me as one of his hundreds of boilermkers

which he knows nothing about me or my quilifications      going to join macca  seems when specialists in there field answer they always get knocked down



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Haha yes . Pre heating and grinding out cracks etc . But telling how to do it is like telling how to do electrical work !! We know where that goes .,

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TAJ wrote:

I suppose oldtrack is referring about  me as one of his hundreds of boilermkers

which he knows nothing about me or my quilifications      going to join macca  seems when specialists in there field answer they always get knocked down


 I was referring to no one in particular on this forum, but if the cap fitsbiggrinconfuse

 I have had many top  class boilermakers working under me[ That was the type of work we did] & none of them were top grade welders or knew much about top grade welding,nor did they want to.

Referring to your post ; I see nothing wrong with it .nor have I made any comment on it.  but perhaps you could have added a little more detail

Like :

Making sure the earth /return clamp is as close to the weld as possible ,with NO bolted or similar joints between it & the weld area

That is the most important point with any thing that has electrical wiring .Simply because of the damage that can be done to the wiring due to it shunting some of the welding current& overheating /burning  the cables out

In extremely critical cases where the parts ares not electrically continuous , connect  an earth /return clamp each side of the weld area

The term earth should not really be used,as any connection of the welding circuit  to "earth " should be avoided, but not always possible.

A requirement under the Standards for many years now



-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 5th of January 2018 03:59:54 PM

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Polarity AC or DC type welders come into it .. But often the clamp type can be a little taken for granted . A bolt through lug as close to welding as said . Grinding off any paint etc .,

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Can you tell us Aus-Kiwi are you a certified Welder or a Boilermaker?

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Kebbin



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sounds like most of the grey nomads are /were wielders of one class or other at some point in their lives

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