Have just fitted four new Drums and Magnets, I did not change the brake shoes as they where still at about 80%,
Repack bearing, refit everything adjust brakes, checked power to all wheels, all good, I have taken the van out to do a brake test on four
occasions, I have driven about 7km with elect brakes of, turn for home turn on the elect brakes, by the time I get home one wheel is very hot, the others are only just warm,
Each time I have readjusted the brakes to a different setting.
Does that wheel have the handbrake cable connected, if it is, how tight is the cable in the off position, should be loose. Depending on the suspension type, the cable can tighten when the van is going over bumps, with standard shackled springs for instance, as when compressed the wheel assy moves back a little.
Handbrake cable too tight?....should be really loose.....Shoes on correct positions....brake drum surface smooth....wheel bearing loose on that wheel causing contact,
What brand/type of controller?
i have the same prob with one wheel runs 20deg hotter then the rest i have changed bearings adjusted brakes changed load position but for the hell of me i cant change it been like it for 2 years now
I would suggest a possible wiring issue.
If the wheel spins easily and is not the handbrake wheel the only thing I can think of is a wiring short or similar that is getting power when you connect the brake controller and activating that brake only.
Perhaps do a spin test with the wheel in the air and the brake controller plugged in.
Cheers Vince
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"life is too short to spend it with people who suck the happiness out of you"
If you have ALKO ESC fitted there can be an electronic malfunction that keeps one brake grabbing, Also ensure that the centres of axles are equidistant from draw-point of van, that can have same effect.
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Possum; AKA:- Ali El-Aziz Mohamed Gundawiathan
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Quite often when I try to fix a problem, or solve some puzzle, rather than finding out what it is, I go through and find out what it isn't. After going through and finding out what it isn't, you're left with what the problem is. Quite often we are so focused looking inside the box, when more often the solution is outside the box.
For instance, how are you measuring the temperature, is it by hand or with a hand held unit, are you measuring heat from the bearing area or inner wheel, or is it the rim and tire?
We know its not the park brake.
You re-packed the bearings, so each bearing assembly went back to their own respective inner and outer races? or did you mix them up?
It cant be the races not seated properly, you haven,t replaced them.
I know that the electro magnets for the off road machine are handed LH & RH.
I don't think it would be the wiring shorting out, wouldn't the wiring be common to all so if there was a short, all the brakes would come on.
We are disscussing a tandem axle, have you put a straight edge across both wheels? if good we can say it isn't alignment.
You could if you are careful and dissconnect the brake wiring to that wheel and go for a short run, if its still hot, it isn't the wiring.
So the wheel isn't hot when the electric brakes are turned off?
My guess would be that the Magnet on that wheel is not retracting. Maybe the magnet is not absolutely square to the face of the drum? To check - (do each of the 3 good wheels first and then the hot wheel)
a) Jack each wheel,
b) Rotate the wheel - check nothing is grabbing,
c) turn on Electric Brakes, rotate (see if grabbing),
d) pull Breakaway cable out and check brakes are working on that wheel,
e) replace breakaway cable and do next wheel.
When my Jayco Sterling was delivered, I did a temp check on the brakes and found the brakes on the front axle weren't working. Temp was about 35 degrees compared to 110 degrees on the rear axle. Took all sorts of unpleasant threats including not fit for purpose before the dealer took me seriously. However after the problem was fixed, the dealer refused to tell me what the fault was. Could it have been an ALKO problem? They had been involved in the investigation. The dealer had tried many things including soldering all the electrical connections, but I believe it was only after ALKO got involved a solution was found.
Now I know this doesn't offer any possible or probable solutions, but I'm just suggesting that the problem may be not what we'd normally deal with. Maybe a call to the manufacturer of the brakes might help.
Hi Bowser,
I had some thing the same a few years back. A brand new van, we had stop for a p stop and I could smell the brakes on the near side I jacked the wheel up and it spun freely no dragiging noises,, stopped again about fifty ks later brakes hot again,, jacked the offending wheel up again,,, spun freely again. We did this so many times,,,finely we limped into Port macquaury and went straight to Jayco,,,the guy said yep I know what the problem is. ,,, he removed the wheel and hub,,, and said See there mate the leading edge of the brake shoes have not been beveled When the shoes are at 90' they tend to drag until the wheel stops turning.,, then they fall back. Hence each time you jacked it up it spun freely. The offside had been beveld ..
He ground a bevel on the leading edges and we were on the road again and have never had a brake problem for the last five years
See there mate the leading edge of the brake shoes have not been beveled When the shoes are at 90' they tend to drag until the wheel stops turning.,, then they fall back. Hence each time you jacked it up it spun freely. The offside had been beveld .."
That's my bet. They are duo servo, so one should is dragged on for some reason.
