Assume you mean trailer/caravan -Wheel bearings are cheap. They should normally be either repacked or replaced after being packed" with wheel bearing grease in both cases". If subject to water immersion they often go rusty or squirt the grease out, then often fail, usually with a lot of drama. More technical people than me can add I am sure. cheers Craig

I like the explanation here:

www.candm.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php

But you need to logon to see the photos.

Re The Phrase " Finger Tight" for bearing adjustment, my finger tight is not tight as I get some slight wheel rock when moving the outside edges of the van tyre, so tighten up a wisker.

Appreciate to tight, can cause Bearing failure issues when the bearing gets hot.

Peter

Hi
inspect wheel bearings is inspect and report
Repack wheel bearings is changing grease and change bearings if worn out optional .

iana wrote:

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Just curious, during services you may have had done, what happens to the wheel bearings, and for what price?

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 When I do mine I remove the bearings, just the roller part (cones) not the cups, and wash them out with diesel so they're clean and then examine them for any signs of discolouration or pitting on the rollers themselves.   Provided they're OK, I look at the cups, the bits in the hub that the bearings sit in, and make sure they're also smooth.  If everything is new looking I reassemble with some new grease squeezed through the bearings and lightly packed around.  I don't fill the whole cavity with grease, nor do I use bearing buddies like you might on a boat trailer.

If one of the bearings is showing signs of wear, I replace the lot, cups and cones on all wheels, so they're all the same age.  Just a bit anal I suppose.

So when I'm finished, I believe the bearings are as good as when it left the factory.

If I get my bearings done by a workshop, I never know how they were done, so I trust they are OK. So far I've not been disappointed.

As far as cost is concerned, it's not a quick job, so you'll have to pay the hourly rate plus grease, and maybe even new bearings.  But then, like me, you'll not be worrying about your wheels falling off as you travel.

-- Edited by KevinC on Saturday 3rd of March 2018 07:06:34 AM

I try to replace then go for a few short trips . Just in case they donât bed in properly . Donât always replace grease if itâs clean . Just add a bit more and assemble .

Hi
No fine line here !!

If u donot use your van a lot do every 2-3 yrs

All else
20,000km on black top
every 10,000km offroad
every time u go thru axle deep water eg b4/after trip

Bearings with slight preload last a lot longer than ones with play .

Oh, and by the way, new seals are a must whenever the hubs are removed. I know many will re-use the seals, And I too have had to in the past when in an emergency situation. But good seals are an insurance policy, so whenever you ask someone to service your wheel bearings, always ask for new seals regardless of the state of the bearings.

OK I can assume by the answers that no body really knows what happens to the wheels on their van when it goes in for a service. You could have nothing done and be charged a fortune.
I have to at some time soon, do a service on my van, the first after the sellers first service, brought a bearing set and found they are rather expensive, that is if you were to replace them, the bearing set came in at $61, and a seal at $16. I had a wheel off a few months ago, and noted they were Japanese bearings, so won't be replacing unless u/s.

Probably a bit late to add anything to this thread, but here goes... I carry a spare (new) set of bearings (inner and outer) for my caravan in a tub of grease. The bearings are already pre-packed with the grease, so (shudder) if a bearing carks it on the road, theoretically all I have to do is to remove the wheel from the axle, get a drift (a long screwdriver) out from my toolbox and whack the dead bearing cups out. Then carefully drive the new ones in and reassemble the whole shebang and away we go (with slightly greasy hands). Well, that's the theory anyway. Carrying the spare bearing in a tub of grease is the easiest way to ensure that it doesn't start rusting, and by pre-packing it with grease, it saves both time and effort on the road, and hopefully ensures that the bearing is properly lubricated right from the start. I am not brave enough to speak too loud, lest it hear me, but thusfar the system has worked very well - because I have come prepared, such measures will not be necessary.

Car (4WD) bearings are generally done each 40-60,000kms.

With some modern cars eg, Ford Falcon, Pajero the hubs & bearings are sealed for life - you replace the whole hub. How long they last for depends on the driver & where the car goes but they can last 150,00kms. They are rather expensive at $1500 for each hub.

I do my van at 10,000kms - also changing the seal - not like some Jayco dealerships. It's definitely cheaper insurance than what happened a few years ago.

Hi
ALL tapered rollers had preload . No vehicle manufacturer recommends movement . Actual spec of preload differs . Sometimes there is only minimal  preload .
Technically lube bearings with oil and tension with a torque to turn gauge . . Once preload is established then grease bearings .
Preload applies to diff pinions and carrier bearings ,front wheel drive bearing hubs [older units ] , gearbox bearings etc etc etc
How preload is achieved with std. wheel bearings is with adjusting tool/shifter [depending on hub nut ]. Low tech .
At wheel alignments wheel bearing play is not tolerated .

Brenda And Alan
Your description tells me u preload tighten up once installed stationary . Just crank to the next hole ..doh
Preload is the whole process of how u adjust wheel bearings properly ,tighten and backoff and repeat while turning hub . The preload is when u leave it adjusted on the light tightening stroke whilist moving hub. You need to feel/hear for cage movement and feel drag. There is a sweet spot b4 u get to bearing cage noise . A well packed bearing set will give a choice of 1-2 holes in the castle nut . If u cannot make the 2nd go to the first .

Wheel bearing adjustment is not hard but experience does help a lot . Especially when the wheel/hub  cannot  be rotated ,mainly in industrial situations . U need to have a ''feel''  for tension . 

Rechecking wheel bearing tension is not a bad idea but adjusted ""correctly"" its NOT required .

In many vans the castle nut is tight on rough threads . . Castle nut need to be able to be moved by 1 finger. If not these spindle threads need to be thread filed.

-- Edited by swamp on Sunday 4th of March 2018 10:53:13 AM

-- Edited by swamp on Sunday 4th of March 2018 11:06:19 AM

Earlier disk brake hubs expand with heat . The tapper self centres the hub . There is a mile difference between correct and lose bearing . Torque method is fine . Follow manufacturers or bearing supplied instructions !! Most donât have torque wrench .