I recently changed my hitch to a Hitch Ezy and used a torque wrench to do the nuts up to the required tension as per the instructions , there has been mention on the forum about peoples hitches coming loose as with wheels on their vans . So I'd prefer it didn't happen to me. What I'm after is info on what tension wheels nuts should be tightened up to . I've been cranking them to the billy'0' over the years . I've seen people with lumps of pipe on the end of a wrench . I have had to use a pipe on a wrench to get nuts undone that were fitted with a pneumatic rattle gun by a tyre dealer. From what I can glean nuts can be overtightened and can fail just the same ? anyone in the know ?
Hi Mezza56, Can only give you a rough guide. Our van has been fitted with alloy wheels and the manufacturer's recommendation was 132nm. That BTW, is the recommended torque for tightening the wheels on a Landcruiser. I used to regularly check the wheel nuts, but have now fitted plastic wheel nut indicators that show at a glance if nuts have loosened. (I'll send a picture if you don't know what they are). Cheers, Bob
Wheel nuts should not be done up with large levers or lumps of pipe on the end of the brace. This is a really good way to get a failure of the wheel studs by stretching them past the point of return.
If a torque wrench is not available, a rough rule of thumb is that someone of average strength should be able to undo the nuts with the provided wheel brace. Your wife for example.
The proper torque settings are usually available from a search on Google if you know what hubs have been used, and if you have access to a torque wrench then this is the best way of doing them up.
Many people would be suprised how little torque is actually required. You do not need to be a gorilla.
My other hobby is motorsport and we are religious with torqueing wheel nuts up correctly as you can imagine. Never lost a wheel or snapped a stud yet.
Yes a lot depends on stud size dia Large trucks have much higher settings than 2 ton vehicles . The nut tapper assists in keeping them tight, locking them as well as centering wheel .. be aware of left hand threads . I carry a torque multiplier . 50 to 1 turns . Use torque to yield in this case . Tight then 3/4 turn etc
Thanks guys those indicators look like a good idea saves getting a T wrench out every so often , would most auto places stock them or any particular place.
And this is the result of over tightening. I was told that the bar I was using enable me to apply far too much torque and to get a cheap torque wrench and to use it...
-- Edited by markf on Wednesday 22nd of August 2018 11:00:26 AM
There has been a flood of cheap wheel hubs , studs imported . Yes these studs should be tightened at a guess to around 80lb . Bigger 16mm or so would require bars, long 1ā torque wrench to go the higher torque settings . 120lb+ . A torque multiplyer or longer wrench is required. Compression air guns donāt help either . Checking nuts after a short drive is best rather than taking extra tight to be sure !! Itās trenching stud beyond it yield point !!
I believe incorrectly set rattle guns are the main cause. I just had my Triton serviced an wheels rotated. They use a torque wrench to tighten them. One just Snapped at about half the required torque. First one in 45 yrs.
Nuts distort --
2 ways Mainly because of poor quality and overtightening .
....poor quality nuts stretch
overtightening can cause nuts to bottom out causing the nut to pinch the thread/stud
.. no lube eg neverseize
Replace nuts all fixed
Studs break 2 ways
.over use of a very strong rattle gun 98% rattle guns donot tighten that much
....poor quality studs break often ,typically in cheap after market replacement
. no lube eg never seize