You don't have to but as caravan handbrakes are not all that special you will need some sort of chock, be it the one that suits your ramp & locks onto it or a few random blocks of wood.
Up to you really.
Cheers Neil
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Neil & Lynne
Pinjarra
Western Australia
MY23.5 Ford Wildtrak V6 Dual Cab / 21' Silverline 21-65.3
We have just bought the Anderson levellers for our Bushtracker. We used them on a trip up the Buckland river to some of the best free camping in the East. The levellers work really well and are as strong as. You still need chocks as well
Aldi have levelling ramps on sale from time to time. I have one, and it works very well. It also has a chock which is needed because the van is likely to run off if the brakes are not applied really hard. From memory, I paid $30 for my ramp.
At the moment, I am using wooden blocks and plywood squares, they are working well for me, and I can use them for other things as well. I carry a jack of course, and axle stands for servicing the van. There are times when the ramps can't be used, and I can use the axle stand and blocks instead.
I have a pair of red ramps with removable black ends.Chocks as well and use chocks all the time.
As previously stated caravan hand breaks are not much good.I also donot undo my safety chains until the van is level chocked & hand brake applied.
Used on single axel van. The red part will fit between dual wheels. I luv em but still carry jacking blocks .Les
I also have levelling ramps and locking chocks and use them when nesessary. I also carry a couple of pieces of wood, 19 mm thick, and sometimes find it is easier to use them. In both cases I use the chocks to secure the wheels, as others have said caravan hand brakes can be unreliable.
I went to supercheap yesterday and bought some that sounds like the ones leshill mentioned, red and black and for dual axles. Best part was the Made In Australia symbol.
For a single axle those ones that are curved on a taper work a treat , I have the normal ones on a double axle but I watched a guy with a single axle use his and it worked well
-- Edited by mezza56 on Monday 15th of October 2018 07:50:41 AM
You just love a dig don't you Rocky? What about the price for just the load levellers instead of all the accessories? There's enough there for 3 single axle vans like the OPs with some left over! So a set to suit $40 US + postage + gst
or
Thanks for the link - it shows it is cheaper than the "kit" - $85.95 for one set and free postage within Straya - so that gives ya a set of two for the tandem van - $170.
Still a bit dear for me to discard my less than $50 set for the tandem van and get these for $170. Fail to see value for money. Remember I am not "digging" - jest saying that in my opinion, they are NOT value for MY money.
Especially as I have absolutely no problems with the ones I have - they are definitely no less easy to put the van on and chock than the Anderson's as per the video.
OH ... and I don't need a liddle plastic hammer.
cheers - John
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2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto - 2008 23ft Golden Eagle Hunter Some people feel the rain - the others just get wet - Bob Dylan
sorry people but the wat I read this post is levelling ramps when parking the van. Maybe I have misunderstood the OP.
The OP indicated he was after some ramps (he had not got them at that time) for levelling his van. He was asking if he needs the types with the added wheel chocks. The first reply fully answered his query by indicating he would need the chocks if he can't rely upon his handbrake. The next reply suggested a system that included the chocking mechanism. There was a subsequent request regarding levelling for a twin axle van. most of the replies answered on or other of the questions.
Where is the problem?
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.
Looking at getting some leveling ramps for van single axle, looking on EBay do i need to get the ones with the locking chocks any info would be great
The best levelling device I have had for a van was a length of 215 x 35 mm chunk of timber. You use a few small offcuts of timber to raise on end. That provides a long gradient to raise the wheel without having to make a decision as to which step on a ramp you should stop upon. You drive the van up the ramp until the low side is just a whisker higher than needed. You then place a block downhill of the wheel and let the van roll down onto that. That is the cheapest method of levelling the van and you can get it level first time every time.
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.