Solving problems with a Jayco Silverline Grey Water Tank
These mods may be applicable to other manufacturers vans as well.
CLEANING THE GREY WATER TANK
I have done some searching and some thinking about solving all of the grey water tank problems on a Jayco and this is my solution.
I have not inspected every model but this equipment will fit the Silverline and will probably be able to be adapted to other models.
As I see it the first problem is not being able to clean the tank properly so what I think it needs is an inspection port large enough to be able to view into the tank as well as being able to get your hand in there for removing the crap that may enter the tank.
If you are only concerned with cleaning it out then this is all you will need.
They are not expensive and easily available from most marine chandlers and boat parts suppliers.
Dont buy an inspection port that is too large for your particular tank but it will need to be big enough to get your hand inside particularly if you are fitting the level switch below. The 150mm size will be suitable.
Obviously you will have to remove the tank to fit it or have it fitted by your preferred repairer.
The inspection port would need to be fitted in the end of the tank that is oriented toward the middle of the van which would be the preferred area although some tanks may be able to accept it in either front or back side depending on access.
It will be important that it is sealed with the appropriate product when fitting the threaded ring into the tank and if it were me I would use stainless bolts washers and lock nuts.
Once this is fitted the tank could be cleaned as an item of regular maintenance or as required if it became blocked.
I would suggest to drain the tank from the outlet drain hose as much as possible before removing the inspection port cover to prevent being drowned in a rush of grey goo and water.
LEVEL SWITCH
From my observation Jayco will be a long way from having the level gauge in the Grey Water Tank reading correctly with the current gauge so if this is one of your priorities you may consider using a float switch and a simple warning light.
Here is a link to a simple float switch which would do the job
To fit this in the tank you will need to be able to access the inside of the tank so the fitting the above inspection port will be almost essential.
If using an outside repairer it will be more economical to have this switch fitted at the same time as the port.
Fit the float with with enough movement for it to be able to sense the level at roughly a set time and volume before it is actually full.
For example if the tank is 80 litres and you want it to indicate when 3/4 full then measure up the side of the tank and install it so it will switch on at that level.
By doing this you will have a fair idea of how long before the tank needs emptying or if you are emptying into a bucket and then disposing this way you could begin emptying when the light illuminated.
If you want it to illuminate when it is full then fit the unit as high as you can but with some float switches the float may hit the top of the tank and prevent the mechanism from switching on the light before the tank is actually full to the top. The one in the link above should be OK in most tanks.
You may choose to use a buzzer or any warning device with the light or just a buzzer by itself, this is your choice. Personally a buzzer would be far too annoying for me.
A cheap LED mounted in the plastic surround (Silverline) adjacent to the Hub or the Setec unit will work
If necessary fit a switch to be able to turn it off should it come on at night and you dont want to go and start emptying the tank.
I should add that a fuse should be used in the circuit for protection.
If for your own reasons you want a tank gauge that will indicate the progressive levels of the tank then these are available in 12 v but will be at a much larger cost than what I am using and suggesting above.
If there is a need to have an indication of the tank being part full then another float switch could be installed at any level desired in the tank with a second LED in the van at very little extra expense.
To all Have a Merry Xmas.
-- Edited by Dickodownunder on Friday 21st of December 2018 04:29:11 PM
-- Edited by Dickodownunder on Friday 21st of December 2018 04:31:58 PM
-- Edited by Dickodownunder on Friday 21st of December 2018 04:32:36 PM
-- Edited by Dickodownunder on Friday 21st of December 2018 04:33:18 PM
-- Edited by Dickodownunder on Friday 21st of December 2018 04:35:12 PM
__________________
"Seek the truth or bury you head in the sand, both require some digging"
Jayco , Silverline grey water tank mods, Inspection port ---- done that, Float switch and LED light ------ done that. Further mounted grey water tank between suspension N-S, Fitted a buffer tank to the washing machine outlet, and connected then via grey water tank, only one grey water hose required, Fitted grey water outlets on both sides of the van.
Jayco , Silverline grey water tank mods, Inspection port ---- done that, Float switch and LED light ------ done that. Further mounted grey water tank between suspension N-S, Fitted a buffer tank to the washing machine outlet, and connected then via grey water tank, only one grey water hose required, Fitted grey water outlets on both sides of the van.
Hi iana
That is great to hear.
Did you use the same or similar parts on your mods?
Our washing machine drains via the 38 mm flexi pipe as recommended by Jayco but what I did was use a Y connection to connect the grey water discharge to the 38mm tubing after the termination at the van.
This has the same result and I only have and need one discharge hose.
__________________
"Seek the truth or bury you head in the sand, both require some digging"
Basicly the same, using the 25mm hose for the grey water. Done other mods you may be interested in, have had quite a few faults come about, I think it was the result of a slightly different model on the production line.
Basicly the same, using the 25mm hose for the grey water. Done other mods you may be interested in, have had quite a few faults come about, I think it was the result of a slightly different model on the production line.
Apart from me I would be sure many others would be interested in any mods that you have made to improve things in general.
If not here then maybe a new topic in which we may all contribute or observe.
Cheers
__________________
"Seek the truth or bury you head in the sand, both require some digging"
I currently don't have a grey water tank, but am thinking of fitting one, so advice from the two of you would be appreciated.
When you are in a caravan park, can you bypass your grey water tank and drain through a normal sullage hose? In this situation I don't want to go through the grey water tank and then out as that will dirty the tank unnecessarily, so I'm thinking some kind of 'y' valve on the inlet to the tank so I can switch between it going direct out to sullage hose or into storage in the tank. How does yours work?
Thanks.
I currently don't have a grey water tank, but am thinking of fitting one, so advice from the two of you would be appreciated. When you are in a caravan park, can you bypass your grey water tank and drain through a normal sullage hose? In this situation I don't want to go through the grey water tank and then out as that will dirty the tank unnecessarily, so I'm thinking some kind of 'y' valve on the inlet to the tank so I can switch between it going direct out to sullage hose or into storage in the tank. How does yours work? Thanks.
Hi Mamil
If you are fitting a GWT then I would strongly advise you to fit a bi pass so that you are only using the tank when needed.
My van does not have a bi pass due to the wisdom of the financial controller at Jayco.
In any case a method to clean the tank would be advantageous but rinsing with sodium per carbonate ( NAPISAN ) by partially filling the tank with hot water and with the valve off, driving around to slosh the solution around. when this is done drain the tank in a suitable receptacle or on your lawn at home.
I would much prefer to bi pass the tank when in a park or where it is not needed.
There are many tanks of different sizes and shapes available and I have seen an owner who made a system from large diameter PVC piping all linked together and he could take the ends of the tube to clean it out.
here is a link to a members post on here that made a PVC GWT. Look for Big Mals post with pictures.
I will say the most important part is that any GWT should have a large outlet.
If you buy a tank and do your own installation then make completely sure you do not allow any swarf from drilling the tank to remain inside the tank as this will combine with hair and hardened soap to block the outlet and that is no fun climbing under the van and undoing hoses off the tank when it is full of putrid waste water.
Good luck with it, it is a project worth doing for convenience and piece of mind when camping in an area where the use of the GWT is compulsory.
If it is not compulsory you may use it out of courtesy to others so as not to flood the area with your waste or at time you may just direct the grey water onto a tree or grass.
There may be some that advise just to by a portable tank or use a plastic drum and that will work but what I found that the purpose built portable tank that I had was not really that portable unless you could empty it within wheeling distance from your van. It was too bloody heavy to lift it into the back of the vehicle. Being able to empty it near to where you are using it is a reasonably rare occurrence.
-- Edited by Dickodownunder on Saturday 22nd of December 2018 01:52:36 PM
-- Edited by Dickodownunder on Saturday 22nd of December 2018 01:54:38 PM
__________________
"Seek the truth or bury you head in the sand, both require some digging"
I currently don't have a grey water tank, but am thinking of fitting one, so advice from the two of you would be appreciated. When you are in a caravan park, can you bypass your grey water tank and drain through a normal sullage hose? In this situation I don't want to go through the grey water tank and then out as that will dirty the tank unnecessarily, so I'm thinking some kind of 'y' valve on the inlet to the tank so I can switch between it going direct out to sullage hose or into storage in the tank. How does yours work? Thanks.
Hi Mamil
If you are fitting a GWT then I would strongly advise you to fit a bi pass so that you are only using the tank when needed.
My van does not have a bi pass due to the wisdom of the financial controller at Jayco.
In any case a method to clean the tank would be advantageous but rinsing with sodium per carbonate ( NAPISAN ) by partially filling the tank with hot water and with the valve off, driving around to slosh the solution around. when this is done drain the tank in a suitable receptacle or on your lawn at home.
I would much prefer to bi pass the tank when in a park or where it is not needed.
There are many tanks of different sizes and shapes available and I have seen an owner who made a system from large diameter PVC piping all linked together and he could take the ends of the tube to clean it out.
here is a link to a members post on here that made a PVC GWT. Look for Big Mals post with pictures.
I will say the most important part is that any GWT should have a large outlet.
If you buy a tank and do your own installation then make completely sure you do not allow any swarf from drilling the tank to remain inside the tank as this will combine with hair and hardened soap to block the outlet and that is no fun climbing under the van and undoing hoses off the tank when it is full of putrid waste water.
Good luck with it, it is a project worth doing for convenience and piece of mind when camping in an area where the use of the GWT is compulsory.
If it is not compulsory you may use it out of courtesy to others so as not to flood the area with your waste or at time you may just direct the grey water onto a tree or grass.
There may be some that advise just to by a portable tank or use a plastic drum and that will work but what I found that the purpose built portable tank that I had was not really that portable unless you could empty it within wheeling distance from your van. It was too bloody heavy to lift it into the back of the vehicle. Being able to empty it near to where you are using it is a reasonably rare occurrence.
-- Edited by Dickodownunder on Saturday 22nd of December 2018 01:52:36 PM
-- Edited by Dickodownunder on Saturday 22nd of December 2018 01:54:38 PM
Great, thanks for that advice. So sounds a bypass is definitely the way to go...
A different point of view, the grey water tank I have built, or rather Jayco modified, has grey water inlets from each end, and so has the grey water flowing through it all the time. The tank fitting threads are molded in such away, it is impossible to drain the tank fully. If I was to isolate the tank, this residue of grey water would ferment and then really stink, so I see having a continuous flow through a good thing.
How ever if I was going to do the process again, I would consider having two 40 litre portable tanks instead, easy to clean, no extra work to be done on the van. I have one of those trundler tanks which I can use to empty the built in grey water tank when staying at one spot for a few days It has been modified and has an extra handle mounted on it at the other end, so the two of us can lift it onto the back of the ute.