Hi Bukhouse,
I would do a gestimate on what the load in the van will be, add 5A & fit a breaker to suit. An absorption 3-way fridge draws around a constant 17A. You will find a 25-30A cct breaker reasonably easy to purchase. If you have one of these, fit a Fridge Switch on the van to isolate the fridge from the car's battery when you are stationary.
A DC fridge will draw considerably less current (5-10A) & it cycles on/off.
Be wary - there are two types of breakers available. Self (auto) or manual (done by you) resetting. Both have pros & cons but I saw camper trailer that was almost destroyed by fire at Mt Isa a few years ago. The self resetting breaker kept doing that - resulting in $8,000 damage to the batteries & "flash" power board!
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Warren
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If you don't get it done today, there's always tomorrow!
There is absolutely no point in putting a fuse in line just before the fridge. The fridge does not feed power to the supply cable so a fuse is not needed. If you put one in it is just another potential fault to show its ugly head. If a dead short occurs in the fridge then the fuses at the power sources will save the day.
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.
Perhaps it is time to explain further on when,why & where fuses should be placed
[1]Fuses primary purpose is usually to protect the cable from overheating due to excess current
[a]To do this it needs to be fitted as close as possible to the power source
It must not have a current rating higher than the cables it is protecting ,but it can be lower, in fact should be lower, if the cable is large purely for voltage drop reasons[
[c] if is the situation ,the fuse size should be based on the maximum connected load current be that a single devise or multiple devices.
[d] If branch cables are run from the large cable,[teed off]The fuse rating should be no higher than the current rating of the smallest cable or the cables should be individually fused ,with a fuse no bigger than than that cables current rating, & near as possible to the take off point
[e] Fuses are not ideal for overload protection of equipment [thermal overloads or better, temperature sensors, should be censidered]
[f] fuses are available in many different types for different purposes.
Such as:
[g] fast blow which ,as the name implies ,are designed for quick operation & are for situations where the rate of current rise could be quite fast.
[h] slow blow ,can take excess current for a short period without blowing ,used when short term surge currents can occur such as motor start up
[h] small cartridge fuse are also available in numerous types even in 12V .
fast blow glass
slow blow glass
12v wedge fuses are not available in the same range. of duties
[j] 240 v have a much larger range from standard to high rupturing capacity[HRC] but not something that should be of interest to this forum
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Thursday 21st of February 2019 07:45:07 PM
In my working life as an electrical contractor I was involved in wiring Pivot irrigators sometime up to 500 meters from the supply. So we could use 2ooamp cables to supply 2o amp motors.