pop top strut replacement

denmonkey · Senior Member

pop top strut replacement

Wanderlust · Veteran Member

G'day Brett, 2 years ago I installed a 200w solar panel across my Sterling poptop roof on a 'H' frame and lifting the roof became harder - as was expected.
Lifting the strut pressure seemed to be the answer but not so. Because of uneven pressures across 4 struts, the roof gradually shifted and the problems began.
Replacing with a set of genuine struts solved the problem.
I have also changed the way I lift the roof. Door open, awning half opened and pushed back up so it hangs 'sloppy'. Lift each end of roof in turn. Much easier now. The first lot I changed myself. A fairly difficult job (on a 40 degree day!). I got a repairer to do the next lot.
Cheers, Andy

-- Edited by Wanderlust on Friday 8th of March 2019 02:29:48 PM

denmonkey · Senior Member

Hey Andy,

can you explain why the higher rating caused uneven pressure across them ?
Do you mean you swapped some of them (end with the panels ) for bigger ones ? or did you swap all of them and still get an issue ?

I'm testing at the moment and have found the added weight of just the single panel (planning on 2 )on top makes it a bit harder. Still workable though.
Forgoing the panels , the roof is crooked and I think its because of the struts reaching their end of life.

Figuring I'd kill 2 birds with one stone, is why the higher rated ones seemed to make sense.

I'll be going a panel at either end to balance the load in what I would also describe as a sort of H frame . DIY of course :)

If it IS doable, I'll have a crack at it myself.

cheers Brett

Yuglamron · Guru

There was a recent post re strut replacement. Some good links were given to suppliers and what info you needed to replace various struts. Links to follow.

https://www.struts-online.com.au/

These two Courtesy of Peter D

A couple of links for you

Help Selecting The Correct Gas Strut

How to Remove Gas Strut Ball Joints

Treecrest · Veteran Member

I updated my gas struts because I had 2 solar panels and a roof top air con on the Expanda. It is difficult because the strut when connected to the van, the rod does not travel all the way out. Then when you try to install the new strut (yes one at a time) then it has to be compressed a cm or 2. This is quite difficult.

BTW - if you are buying non Jayco, then ensure you buy those with the correct ends - there are at least 3 different sizes/types!

Happy strutting
Glen

Wanderlust · Veteran Member

Brett, the advice I was given by a strut re-gasser, was that because I had the big panel up front, I then needed stronger struts up front - so he made them about 500 up front and 450 at rear. Big mistake. 3 months into our trip, during a big blow, the roof pulled itself forward about 15cm, due to the stronger front struts, which took a lot of sorting by Townsville Strutmasters who did a great job.
As far as the panel and its frame are concerned, I have not touched the roof per se but used the strong aluminium frame for all mounting. Also ran the cable through the skirt into the van. Design was from another forum and works well.

denmonkey · Senior Member

thanks for the pointers all.

Andy, that makes sense now. I wasn't sure if just the heavier duty ones all round was causing the issue somehow.
I plan on doing all 4.

I checked supercheap for prices and they were about 35 bucks a unit.

Found the 'gas strut guys' and it looks like i can grab a set of 4 for 88 bucks :) including postage.
I need to check measurements etc but there are 2 options 330N and 440N. I'll go with the higher rated ones for the same price.

If there are any tips on fitment and fighting with them to get the right length, I'm listening.

Of course, I'll do a video successful or otherwise :)

cheers Brett

Long Weekend · Guru

When I did the strut on the Freedom a couple of years ago I faced the problem of compressing the strut to fit onto the ball. After trying various ways to do the job that always ended with a lot of swear words I hit on using a ratchet tie down.

Use one about 25mm wide, and a reasonable quality - not one from a discount shop.

Put a 8mm shackle around the neck at the top of the strut (the thick end). Make up a loop of cord about 150mm diameter - I used blind cord.

Place the bottom of the strut on the ball making sure that the locking clip is slid into place. Then put the loop of cord around the ball. Put one hook of the ratchet through the cord loop, the other on the 8mm shackle on the top of the strut, take up the loose webbing strap then ratchet down. As soon as the top of the strut reaches the top mounting ball slide it on, move the top locking clip into place and you can remove the ratchet, shackle and cord loop.

I tried putting a loop of cord around the top of the strut but it kept slipping down. Hence a shackle.

Hope that helps.

Murray

-- Edited by Long Weekend on Monday 11th of March 2019 09:58:38 PM

Craig1 · Guru

Maybe ' slightly off topic" , but once you get them done I am advised to use roof supports on the awning side. Reason being that the awning once pulled out and often anchored puts extra drag/weight on that side. My advisor suggested that this effect can be easily measured after roof is popped then after awning rolled out. I have not yet had a chance to see if this is so. He also said 20mm conduit/ broom handle or similar is fine. There was a twist lock type a few years ago.

denmonkey · Senior Member

Thanks Muzz, the ratchet straps seems to make sense. I'll try that when I get to it.

Craig, we were discussing the pull of the awning on the pop top here at work a few days ago,
Mine is mounted to the actual pop top rather than the van itself and applies it own pressure sideways.
One of the boys here uses the purpose made twist lock type jobbies for his, but he also has the air bag lifters too. Lazy bastard :)

Farmhat · Senior Member

Craig1 wrote:
Maybe ' slightly off topic" , but once you get them done I am advised to use roof supports on the awning side. Reason being that the awning once pulled out and often anchored puts extra drag/weight on that side. My advisor suggested that this effect can be easily measured after roof is popped then after awning rolled out. I have not yet had a chance to see if this is so. He also said 20mm conduit/ broom handle or similar is fine. There was a twist lock type a few years ago.

Just to watch though - I have seen the bottom end of the 'broomstick' dent the paneling strip it sits on, in one case cracking a seam that was at that spot, allowing the wall to fill up with water when it rained.

Joe.

denmonkey · Senior Member

ok will do. I'll go with a piece of 4x2 or something with more surface area to avoid that.

cheers Joe

Craig1 · Guru

Joe, maybe find some plastic or pvc, that way no wood stains if it gets wet (and lighter). I have some dismantled plastic pallet plank that is about 12mm thick and can be cut to width,length. Found a supplier for the twist lock support ones today .