I got this idea from another vaner. The solenoids were from Bunnings made for garden water systems.
The wiring is not polarity specific, as long as you do each one the same, and just put a 2 way switch in the van or 3 separate switch for 3 tanks.
I installed them in the default closed position.
The extra loop is a manual bypass just in case of a malfunction you can go back to a manual selection system.
The wiring goes to the solenoid from a 2 way switch. The switch is powered by splicing into the pump wires after the pump's pressure switch. Once a tank is selected and the pump turned on, the solenoid will open and water will flow. I now control every tank separately from inside the van.
Every tank should have a tap to shut it down in case of damage.
If you do not understand any of this info, get a friendly electrician to do the bits you don't get.
G'day Glenn, The valves you picture are normally 24 volt AC, not 12v dc, so just make sure you get the right ones.Usually 12v dc are special order and more money.
I too was thinking about the tank selector problem, and as you say a few on here over the years have put up ideas. However, I thought these type of solenoid valves were pilot operated, i.e. the solenoid opened a small valve which then allowed water under pressure to activate the valve.
If this is the case, since the only pressure would be the head of water from the tank, do the valves work, and what restrictions do they put in the system, being that this system would be fitted to the suction side of the pump.
I was looking at activated ball valves, and when you consider all the fittings you have there, the price would probably add up to being similar.
Yes Delta 18, exactly what I am on about, and the valves would have a manual over-ride. No extra fittings. Did you Silverline have a stupid and cheap irrigation selector placed in the most inaccessible spot like ours is?
Irrigation valves are normally closed , current input opens, or sucks up the diaphragm. They rely on water pressure to shut, so a tank alone will usually not shut them. There is a latching solenoid coil on some makes that overcomes this issue, but not cheap. The motorized valves look wonderful and cheap to me. Industrial versions were well into $100's not that long ago.
I've tried to edit my post but it won't update. I wanted to acknowledge that the idea and words came a post which dieseltojo had posted a few years ago.