50amp Anderson plug expand for 4 AWG: https://thegreynomads.activeboard.com/t65662065/50amp-anderson-plug-expand-for-4-awg-cable/
I'm using the Powerpole (started a new topic). The cable is for my 3 compressors, even though they have a 100% duty cycle with additional external & internal heatsinks & fan cooling, I can put my fingers on the start of the air outlet without burning myself. This can get up to 130 degrees normally! The compressors only need to run 2 minutes every 7 minutes so only a 30% duty cycle. It takes longer to take off & put back on the TPMS. Pumping up the tyres' 60 litres volume each from 20psi to 35psi takes only 30 seconds per corner.
I just don't want to muck around in the heat & dust, if the set up is fast one will actually use it as many times a day as needed for a more comfortable ride & less wear & tear on the car. Coming out of Francois Peron NP last year there was a very long queue for the two air stations. We pulled up just past them, whipped around the car then packed up to go & another 4WD came up behind us to use the "third" air station!
I can use the 4AWG power cable for the solar panels as I will not be using the compressor at the same time. Also have rewired the fridge's 16AWG wire to 12AWG to reduce voltage loss. Just trying to squeeze as much as I can out of the system.
Next problem, a bit like under sized power cable. For the volume of air & distance, I should be using 10mm air line or even 12mm. For each air line connection one needs to add the equivalent of about 30cm. Also the first atmosphere in all equations does not count which all manufactures turn a blind eye to! CFM is a meaningless statement. They should be stating SCFM (standard cubic feet per minute)! Eg, they will say 180 litres per minute but that will be at 0 psi & in a separate sentence say 250 psi but that will be at 0 litres per minute. This is where SCFM comes in but they will never state that!
Duty cycle, or rather lack of is another issue. You would be lucky to get a 25% duty cycle for most compressors. So 1 minute pumping then 3 minutes off at best! In other words a low capacity, slow & cooked compressor that if you touch you will burn yourself, hopefully it has died before that happens!
8mm air line is about the maximum I can use within the car as it has an OD of 14mm, 12mm would be 18mm OD, try running that around a car! Also large capacity air line hose for tools takes up more room, again I simply do not have the room.
Whether it's air or electricity the larger the line the more efficiency you get. An air tank is a bit like a battery & stores a bit of a reserve when moving to the next tyre so you are a bit ahead of the game! Back to the power cable, I'm only using it typically 4 x 30 seconds over 7 minutes. Then switch it off & for example empty the air line blowing out the fuel filler area of dust.
Photos: 2 compressors under seat. 3rd compressor & 4 litre air tank in boot which unclips for draining (actually only about 3.7 litres because I measured it) Different heatsinks on 3rd compressor. Custom Heatsinks added externally & internally. 2 compressors were not enough for cleaning. Air gun & vacuum in the car dislodges dirt really well. ARB are one of the few companies to provide any form of meaningful compressor specs. Moisture trap (air tank helps as well). Moisture after pumping one tyre on a humid day & the air tank has already removed a bit. Venturi blower for higher volume of air but lower pressure.
You would be surprised how much water is in the air. You will get 2 to 3 times the amount of water in the tyre because you are compressing the air, & the water stays in the tyre. I have heard of air tanks full of water because people didn't know you have to drain them & then it goes down the air line adding to the moisture problem! Moisture traps should be near the end of the line.
Good job and great attention to detail A couple of thoughts about some details which you probably already know.
When fitting a big cable into a slightly smaller socket or terminal you can trim the number of wires back a bit just at the fitting to make them fit. This will not increase the overall resistance by any measurable amount and indeed is much safer than having loose ends that might stick out to contact something. If the wire is fine multi strand it is easy to do.
If you wanted to get better air performance you could look at the air fittings in your system, the number and type IMHO. The standard ones are poorly machined with steps and lots of resistance. The self sealing quick connects are very high flow resistance design. If you ran you mind over them you might find a few minutes of pump savings.
Keep up the great flow of information and pics. I certainly enjoy seeing what you are achieving with your minimal rig.
Jaahn
PS As for the moisture in air. I went to PNG years ago and checking out the workshop gear I found the big old compressor tank unit had no drain tap fitted. So I removed the plug and ..... flooded the workshop. There must have been 80-100 liters of sh*tty water in it. I fitted a tap easily accessible for a weekly drain. It cycled a lot slower after that
-- Edited by Jaahn on Monday 1st of July 2019 10:29:42 AM
Thank you for your comments. I just got around to tidying up the setup:
Finally got around to mounting the regulator/water trap, it's been floating around the car & somehow was always in the way due to its awkward shape. It was always intended to be installed here but I just never got around to it. Its mounting bracket is hanging off the electrical box.
While at it I upgraded the air line from 8mm internal diameter to 10mm from the air tank to the regulator. Down stream from the air tank all 3 compressors are on the same air line.
There are a couple of right angle connectors which had a small hole of 5.5mm (24mm2) for the air to get through, lazy manufacturing, which I drilled out to the maximum size of 8.5mm (57mm2) to reduce resistance as much as possible.
Exiting the regulator is the ARB 6 metre orange air line for the tyres. I replaced the quick release fittings that came with the air line as they had more air resistance than the ones I'm using & to keep all connectors the same so no more adapters. The orange air line is only 7mm so more resistance but it is compact & I'm running out of room in the car. With this setup finalised I have saved a fair bit of room!
Previously the air compressors were just a little bit ahead of the ability of filling the tyres. Hopefully with these couple of changes reducing resistance in the air line maybe I get a bit more air into the tyres faster. Not that it is slow currently!
Looks to me as though you don't get much sleep at night with all these ideas and projects tumbling around in your head. Great work, well thought out, keep it up. PS what was your trade, if I dare to ask.
I was in the aluminium industry for a couple of decades then architectural models few a couple of decades both physical & 3d models. I have noticed the quality of drawings has decreased over the years. A small block of units I was asked to help find issues with for neighbours, not a job. Has so many mistakes it was ridiculous. Boundaries the wrong size, sun in the wrong position, heights wrong, 3d perspectives were wrong. All approved by Council!
Our own building needed a simple engineering drawing for a concrete slab. Cost our building a lot of money. The engineers couldn't get that right.
No wonder highrise buildings in Australia are unfit to live in if you can't get a single drawing job right!
No one has time anymore to do things properly & any product built you need to check all documentation.
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Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!
50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.
A couple of thoughts about some details which you probably already know.
