Before you wire up each panel, test them & benchmark them. Also wire the panels so you can individually test panels later on in situ to be able to trace faults.
With an amp meter on your setup you will soon get an idea of their typical output at any point in time over the day & will see if the system is down a bit.
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Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!
50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.
Thanks for your replies gentleman, I will try with the 1225a BCDC with my 200Ah AGM setup, but having stated that at some stage I would like to go 300Ah's which would probably need a DC/DC upgrade.
Will let you know when I am up and running.
I recommend a couple of panel meters. The voltage is for the batteries & the amp meter is the raw voltage from the solar panels (this was temporary for a test with the 6 x 20w panels in parallel). My controller provides the output via Bluetooth to the phone. The analogue meters you can read as a glance. I have compared them with my DC clamp meter & they are spot on.
Thanks for all the help people. I am going to try the 20amp charger keeping in mind I may have to upgrade in the future as I have 300 Ah of AGM.
My panels are not ideal as 2 will be flat, 2 will be angled one side and the 5th angled the other side. Now depending on the van position catching morning sun, midday and afternoon, will be interesting if it can keep up with charging demands. I thinking I may end up with the Victron www.mygenerator.com.au/victron-smartsolar-mppt-100-50-charger-controller.html, The Bluetooth would be nice. Time will tell.
I have a Renogy 50 Watt flexible https://solwiser.com/am-best-flexible-solar-panels/ . This has proven to be a highly popular choice for RV and boat owners or anyone who needs to install panels on a curved surface where fixed solar arrays may not be possible. They do also recommend them for boating.
BrianD might genuinely have a Renology 50W panel and finds it good, but he does not even say he owns one ! Or possibly he could be a professional spruiker getting a kick back for joining forums around the world and putting a post up with a commercial link. You make your choice. His profile says his location is NY. So not a GN in Australia.
The site solwiser has this disclaimer at the bottom of the page ! I think real members of this forum might be better information. Don't you just love the WWW these days and advertising and influencers.
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Jaahn
-- Edited by Jaahn on Thursday 7th of October 2021 12:59:02 PM
I bought a new multimeter some years ago and in the instruction it told you how to calibrate it however I only had one at the time so tested it against the car battery, yep close enough lol
Most of the measurements I am doing a simply relative.
Check each panel see if they are acceptable.
Use heavier cable & see if I can squeeze a bit more out.
Check the amps for air compressor to calculate wire gauge for the run.
I have 2 cheap multimeters 10amp max, both work very well for the price. A couple of 10amp panel meters. 2 Victron MPPT Bluetooth controllers 10 & 20amp. DC clampmeter.
Over the years, double checking the readings & cross referencing, they are all plenty good enough for the task.
As compared to someone who says a solar panel works perfectly because they simply plugged it in. A bit like most reviews, probably never seen a multimeter in their life & don't know what a fuse is.
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Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!
50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.
I have several meters multi and panel. As I no longer go to work I thought I would get a personal calibration unit a couple of years back. This is one currently sold on Ebay. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/163897196659
It provides 4 voltages, 2.5, 5.0, 7.5, 10.0 V and has a rechargeable battery from a USB port. It has a designed 'calibration chip' in it and a circuit designed to provide stable repeatable voltages. Beats guessing and with a calibrated voltage meter, you can run currents through a 1% resister to check current accuracy.
Jaahn
-- Edited by Jaahn on Saturday 9th of October 2021 02:36:58 PM