Hi everyone.
On my maiden voyage of my fd33T civi I was crusing along fine, good power from engine and turbo. All was going fine. All fluids (oil and violent ect) were all topped up and good.
About 10 mins away from Newcastle NSW my temps went high extremely quickly, I pulled over and noticed my lower radiator hose had split. Fixed it up and checked my oil and it was pretty much empty. Filled it back up (about 3 litres) so the dipstick registered it was good again and got on my way.
Along the way back to Canberra the civi lost a lot of power and was blowing black smoke out the exhaust and when I got back home the oil was empty (from dipstick reading) again.
I haven't had time to check but could this excessive oil consumption just be from running way to rich? Could my adjustment screw have fallen out causing it? Or is that level of consumption way to high for that?
Thoughts?
Cheers
Mick
There are only two ways for an engine to loose oil.
It is either leaking from somewhere, which would leave a pretty obvious sign, or entering the combustion chamber via the piston rings, and out the exhaust.
The indication of black smoke would sugest either oil is in the combustion chamber, or you are not burning the fuel properly and it is exiting the exhaust.
Get a compression test done on the engine cylinders, and while your at it, a leak test on your cooling system.
The lack of engine performance and black smoke would sugest to me a piston or piston ring issue.
The rise in water temerature would result from the engine getting hot due to a lack of lubrication.
I did notice a lot of oil marks up the side of the bus and around the underside of the engine bay. Although once parked there has been no oil leakage marks on the ground.
Hi everyone. On my maiden voyage of my fd33T civi I was crusing along fine,
Does that mean it is a new vehicle to you. If so, go back to the last owner and see what is wrong with it. If it was from a dealer then have a go at him.
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.
Mate sorry, but you have been sold a pup, most like a stuffed engine to start with, you should be able to get some comeback on that motor from whom you bought it from. I would be less likely to inform them , that you blew a radiator hose, so driving on an engine without coolant can stuff a motor as well.
engine oil burns blue not black so i doubt its burning it black smoke would indicate over fuelling i'm sure there are plenty of mechanics that will have an opinion on here
did the radiator hose blow because the head gasket went, excessive pressure in the coolant.... pop..... head gasket still crook, drawing oil into combust chamber and of course oil in the coolant.....
Blue smoke, burning oil. Black smoke, too much fuel in relation to air. White smoke, large excessive amount of fuel to air, ie unburnt fuel. It sounds like your engine overheated due to the split radiator hose which caused other problems, ie head gasket/cracked head, piston ring failure or hole in piston, failed turbo seals. Such a large oil consumption and a lack of power would indicate piston rings , a holed piston or failed turbo seals. Oil in the coolant would indicate a cracked/ warped cylinder head or head gasket. You may have a combination of these. Good luck.
I did notice a lot of oil marks up the side of the bus and around the underside of the engine bay. Although once parked there has been no oil leakage marks on the ground.
What about blown turbo seals?
Lots of oil under engine bay.
No oil in air intake into engine.
Oil seems to be in coolant.
Mick,
Hmm lots of question to answer that only you can look at. These are all different problems or one large one
But chasing oil marks is just detective work. The oil comes from some where around the engine. A leaking oil pipe might get rid of that much if it mostly misses the bodywork. Drive behind it see if the windscreen gets greasy. Look at front seal, rear bellhousing drain !
A blown turbo seal will get rid of a lot on a trip too ! White/blue/black smoke might not be seen unless you can see the exhaust outlet. drive behind again !
Oil in the coolant is not good.
Jaahn
PS I have driven a similar diesel bus that had been siezed after loosing coolant and then restarted again later with some work and towing. It used about 25 ltrs of oil for a few hundred KMs and did not show too many signs of it except when parked for a while. The car following got a bit greasy. Just saying it may not be as noticeable as you expect. It was cheaper to drive it than have it trucked back.
-- Edited by Jaahn on Tuesday 8th of February 2022 08:06:23 PM
If I had a blown head gasket wouldn't the engine overheat?
I drove from Wollongong to Canberra and temps were normal (stayed below 90 degrees). The only issue was loss of power that occured after about 200ks and the oil consumption.
This was the coolant in the bus when it overheated and then I topped up. When I repaired the radiator hose I had to drop the coolant into a tub and then use that same coolant refilled through thermostat and then topped up with some water.
Could the colour just be from dropping / reusing it?
If I had a blown head gasket wouldn't the engine overheat?
Not necessarily; I drove an earlier 4WD for perhaps 75,000km with a blown head gasket, in this case I just needed to top up the coolant from time-to-time due to reverse pressurisation.
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You are having a bad trot with this engine/vehicle. is this the new engine, and if so, do you still have the old engine, as well as does the old one still work?. Many Questions. It is going to cost a fair bit of money to rectify, but if you don't do it, you will have blown the outlay you have put into this bus. A catch 22, Do I put more money in? or do I walk away?
It was a complete build from scratch. As in I stripped it completely and built the fit out all myself then swapped the motor as the ed33 was way to sluggish. By the time I sold the other doner bus shell, engine, diff ect it ended up costing me nothing to do the engine swap. So no I don't have the old engine.
Il be taking a further look at things over the next week. As I'm now not 100% sure there's oil in the coolant (and there's no water in the oil) then who knows it could be a blown oil hose from the turbo? Or something like that. Otherwise if it's a head gasket or cracked head or piston ring ect Il sum it up them. I could pull down the engine over winter in my spare time and just buy parts and pay someone to put back together.
This was the coolant in the bus when it overheated and then I topped up. When I repaired the radiator hose I had to drop the coolant into a tub and then use that same coolant refilled through thermostat and then topped up with some water.
Could the colour just be from dropping / reusing it?
Cheers
Some coolants are red do you know what color coolant it was filled with after the rebuild.
I recently read an account of a land cruiser that was going through an unreal amount of oil, several so called experts claimed the motor was shot, he then took it to a small local mechanic who diagnosed a faulty oil catch can stopping the engine from breathing. Problem solved. although it is a long shot might be worth checking your motor is breathing properly.
Landy
-- Edited by landy on Wednesday 9th of February 2022 10:22:27 PM
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In life it is important to know when to stop arguing with people
and simply let them be wrong.
Although it sounds like your engine overheated due to a split radiator hose and subsequently caused other problems, I suggest you ascertain whether the engine overheat was caused by the split radiator hose or whether the hose spit due to the engine overheating, ie faulty thermostat, blocked coolant galleries, collapsed hoses, blocked radiator etc. A coolant flush might be prudent in the course of your repairs. Whatever caused the problem should be investigated prior to repair.
Hmmmm. Well if my radiator/ hoses were block / split or damaged it should have overheated again right?
Once I fixed the lower radiator hose and got back on the road temps were normal again. Only had loss of oil and engine power.
Looks like no oil in coolant and no coolant in oil. That's one of the biggest symptoms of a blown head gasket.
The bottom of the engine is covered in oil too mainly on the injector pump side and leading backwards from there.
I checked most oil hoses and doesn't seem to be any split. One could be blocked though.
If the injector fuel adjustment screw fell out could that cause very excessive oil consumption?
I did a radiator flush after engine install 3 times and put red coolant in. I did at one time have an issue with a thermostat but swapped it for a OEM one which solved that problem. All new hoses on radiator too when engine was installed.
I have had two previous car's head gasket needing replacing. One from a water leak into a cylinder & the other an oil leak. Both situations the head was machined down. In the end all good but both were an expensive exercise.
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Hmmmm. Well if my radiator/ hoses were block / split or damaged it should have overheated again right? Once I fixed the lower radiator hose and got back on the road temps were normal again. Only had loss of oil and engine power.
Looks like no oil in coolant and no coolant in oil. That's one of the biggest symptoms of a blown head gasket.
The bottom of the engine is covered in oil too mainly on the injector pump side and leading backwards from there.
I checked most oil hoses and doesn't seem to be any split. One could be blocked though.
If the injector fuel adjustment screw fell out could that cause very excessive oil consumption?
Mick if the bottom of the engine is covered in oil then it has a leak. From the front somewhere I guess because it is leading backwards. Check the front seal, the timing cover gasket or two. You have the engine in front of you. AS I said it is possible to leak out a lot of oil if it falls on the road as you go along.
There are a few things at the front of the engine that use the timing case so just check all the joins and gaskets and bolt tighteness. If you cannot see it then degrease the whole engine and then run it and check for the oil coming out. Not rocket science really.
Lucky the oil and coolant is good. For the power, have you checked your air filter to see it has not been soaked in oil fumes and restricting the air in to the engine. Or the exhaust is clogged by excess carbon and soot.
I do not think the max fuel screw would cause oil loss but will cause black smoke ?
How much blowby ? How much turbo shaft play ? Is there oil in induction piping ? Exhaust turbine ? Assume your not boosting crankcase ? Injector timing correct ? May have to fit oil restrictor on turbo oil feed ? Especially if its retro fitted !
Tuggers, if I was in Sydney or their about's I would come down, but am very near the NSW/QLD border New England area. If it is a minor issue good, But I feel this is a major repair, so may have to start from scratch again with the motor, and get a pro to do it, or maybe an exchange engine from a reconditioning company. Do what has been suggested, degrease it, and run it, until it gets hot with new oil, lay down some butchers paper, hold it down so it doesn't blow away, then you should get an indications as to where it is leaking from. If I were there I have colour camera, that can get into an engine, or anywhere in tight places would show up on my monitor..
-- Edited by Bicyclecamper on Friday 11th of February 2022 10:12:28 AM