You might consider fitting the Andersen in a housing. This may offer some protection or if you are off road most of the time a metal shield might be needed. Anyway have a look at something like this. It may do the job. You may also find a housing that fits two plugs in the one housing. You might also use different colour plugs for easy identification but you may already have this.
Thanks for the ideas... Plugs are different colors ie red /grey and secure to metal plate.... Must be the vibration stress causing problem....Looking for metal /tougher connectors
-- Edited by divesight on Saturday 9th of July 2022 10:22:55 AM
Thanks for the ideas... Plugs are different colors ie red /grey and secure to metal plate.... Must be the vibration stress causing problem....Looking for metal /tougher connectors
-- Edited by divesight on Saturday 9th of July 2022 10:22:55 AM
Wouldn't metal ones be 'live', never seen such Anderson plugs.
You mention OEM, did you mean genuine Anderson ? I wonder how old they are. Anderson housings are easily replaced once you learn the technique. I'd just buy a bunch of genuine directly from Andersonconnect and keep a few spares in your kit (buy spare lugs as well.). The website is well worth a look to see the range of products available and cheap enough unless you only buy one or two things and account for shipping.
You mention OEM, did you mean genuine Anderson ? I wonder how old they are. Anderson housings are easily replaced once you learn the technique. I'd just buy a bunch of genuine directly from Andersonconnect and keep a few spares in your kit (buy spare lugs as well.). The website is well worth a look to see the range of products available and cheap enough unless you only buy one or two things and account for shipping.
I have a few "genuine" as stated 'Drop Forged' Chinese spanners which have snapped. Also have Stahlwille spanners which have never broken & don't state on the side "Drop Forged"!
I have dropped, run over Anderson plugs, all perfectly ok. Put them in a cover if they are in a vulnerable position.
You could try RSonline or Element14 for alternative parts.
The 175 amp Anderson plug is really solid & they are a lot easier to plug & unplug than the 50 amp plug. I use it regularly for compressors & far too often to jump start other cars. Also multipurpose the 175 extension lead for portable solar panel.
I also keep a few spare plugs. Never had to use them.
Not metal, but I've found the Trailer Vision range of housings for Anderson plugs give them a lot of protection, and they come in different colours so you can keep your colour coding. Otherwise I think you'll have to go up to industrial power connectors if you want a four pin metal connector.
Thanks for all the replies....Found solid industrial two and four pin plugs on LeoForward web site and will contact them next week for more details......
-- Edited by divesight on Sunday 10th of July 2022 09:37:40 AM
-- Edited by divesight on Sunday 10th of July 2022 09:42:23 AM
Thanks for all the replies....Find attached picture of what might work and be a lot stronger
I am not sure without seeing manufactures specifications but I would be checking that the 4 pin is rated at 50 amps as is the Andersen plug.
If you have worked out that it will be suitable for the amperage of your circuit then the other downside ( in my opinion) is dust ingress which may cause poor connections with pin type plugs in off road situations.
With a previous van I had the fridge wire from the tow vehicle wired through #2 terminal in the 7 pin plug and the amp draw began to melt the plug.
My fix was to run the wire through an Andersen fitting.
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20 amps according to this data sheet. I think that looks appropriate for the pin size.
Obviously one would want to use 12awg, but it would be the same situation as an Anderson plug. If you use a smaller gauge wire than the maximum gauge wire you have to de-rate the amps.
The reason is the contacts gets warm & the heavier the wire the more it can dissipate heat.
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I did have a little doubt about the amps those pin type plugs can handle. I think if someone put 50 + amps through them they might never be able to be separated, and that is if you could connect the wire size to carry 50 amps.
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I use 50amp Anderson plugs for my compressors, the plug, hot plugged is 50amps, cold plugged (open circuit) 120amps.
I was using 6awg wire for the 90amp current. It was getting a little bit warm, this was the cable & not the plug, so I upgraded the wire to 4awg 22mm˛ no more heat issues.
Most plug contacts have very little surface area. Especially the split pin type, so a lot of heat is generated, & a further issue if the heat can't be dissipated.
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Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!
50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.
Thanks for all the advice.....Have Purchased Phillips SAE 13082 AUX power male/ female ..Rated at 100/200 amps according to their web site....Solid metal housings and used on truck/truck trailers to power accessories .Hopejully will be bomb proof...Cheers
Is it a electrical or mechanical issue ? Maybe you need better support ( saddles ) each side of connector . If its breaking plug ? If it was burning contacts ? Then its electrical issue ?