Text from sticker using google lens text. Not exactly enlightening. Need actual fridge model.
CAUTION MINIMUM INSTALLATION CLEARANCE
0'at sides and top.
In order to assure efficient operation, an adequate airflow over the rear mounted condenser of the refrigerator is required. (See Owner's Manual for details)
ATTENTION DEGAGEMENTS MINIMAUX A L'INSTALLATION
*0 pouces sur les côtés et à la partie supérieure *Afin d'assurer un fonctionnement efficace, il est nécessaire de laisser une circulation d'air adéquate au-dessus du condenseur situé à l'arrière du réfrigérateur (se reporter au manuel du propriétaire pour les détails).
1 RECOMMENDED THERMOSTAT SETTINGS TO PREVENT EXCESSIVE BATTERY DRAIN In order to avoid unnecessary drain of your battery, we recommend to position The thermostat setting at a 2-3(mid) setting at normal ambient conditions of 20°C to 30°C (70°F to 90°F)
Higher ambient conditions may require a greater thermostat setting.
2 IMPORTANCE OF MAINTAINING PROPER CHARGE LEVEL OF BATTERY Maintaining a proper charge level your battery is essential for the proper operation and cosing performance of the Refrigerator. The Refrigerator should never be allowed operate on a DC voltage lower than 10.5VDC at DC12V users and 23VDC at DC24V users. there your battery's charge system or load capacity is adequate for the loads being empinysd. (See Owners Manual for Details)
IMPORTANCE OF NOT EMPLOYING COMMERCIAL TYPE "QUICK CHARGING
SYSTEM TO THE REFRIGERATOR'S DC CIRCUITS age from these types of charge systems can often 32VDC and occur surge voltage este traximum allowed input voltage to the Refrigerator. Never employ the use types of charge system without first isolating (dis-connecting), the er's DC input for branch) circuit from the battery circuit. Failure to isolate rator's DC circuits from these types of charging systems could result in retrigerator's circuits and void it's warranty."
4FOR AC/DC MODEL SERIES
of DC supply voltage are present to refrigerator and the thermostat control knob The son control assembly is in the 1-5 position, an indicator lamp in the control beluminated the refrigerator tails to operate and the indicator lamp ninate check AC shoreline power or a reverse polarity condition of the Wigerbe & DC sput to the battery or the fuse in the power supply.
OR FAN MOTOR ASSEMBLED MODELS ngs, please put power off when you remove this refrigerator.
6460 442 3000
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50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.
The other day I was parked in a quiet street in my acoustically sealed car, fridge running. I could barely hear the compressor & I have very good hearing. My watch was making more noise.
If you mount the fridge properly, compressor itself is mounted properly & appropriate acoustic insulation, no reason why the fridge can't be quiet.
__________________
Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!
50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.
Hi Maids Here is a helpful suggestion from my experience. Most fridges have the compressor mounted on flexible mounts so it can move a bit and be quiet, and the pipes have some coils to allow this also. If the flexible mounts are shaken up and settle so the compressor is sitting against the metal frame or base it can transmit a lot of noise when it runs. The solution is often to shake it around a bit so the compressor sits back properly in its mounts evenly and not against any of the metal frame. You could look in there and see if a rubber mount has fallen apart or similar but often it is just sitting badly positioned. You could gently move it a bit with your hands. A fridge technician might look at it for you and help possibly. good luck Jaahn
-- Edited by Jaahn on Monday 5th of December 2022 09:38:36 AM
Any respectable fridge manufacture will provide the technical data on their fridges.
You could make up a rubber mount with some furniture rubber feet & modify with a scalpel blade, probably a bit too ridged, but all these tasks are trial & "lots" or error, the only way to learn.
Danfoss drawing (personally I would use a Nyloc nut & 2 stages of rubber, ie different rigidness).
-- Edited by Whenarewethere on Monday 5th of December 2022 12:43:25 PM
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Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!
50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.
When I bought a new fridge I modified it to see how much I could improve the off the shelf product. Increased thermal performance external & internal, made it quieter, increased condenser cooling, lowered energy consumption, reduced AM radio interference. Most of this was the "2 cents" here & there in manufacturing costs. Simply rewiring for 16awg to 12awg, not difficult stuff or install a baffle to stop air recirculating around the side of the condenser fan. How much more basic can it be to improve a product.
__________________
Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!
50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.
What you will need to do is pull out the fridge, look for the things that you can fix for in effect no cost, unless you have to factor in your labour!
Run the fridge, listen & look carefully for the source of noise. Can easily be 2 or 3 issues.
Compressor mounts are the first.
The compressor itself.
If the compressor has less than optimal mounting, either the compressor or some of the plumbing is touching up against something. Copper plumbing can be massages a bit here & there away from the case, but compressor mounts are first to tick off the list.
Have the bearings of the fan failed, then replace the fan with a Noctua high efficiency fan.
If you feel the overall sound levels are within reason, then look at some foam acoustic insulation for the fridge as a whole, which will isolate the fridge from the vehicle.
This is not difficult stuff, just takes time to narrow down the issues.
I have a Waeco fridge simply bought because it had to fit a space in our car, but I will be one of the first to say that Engel fridges are very good, if its cooling efficiently, fix the acoustic problems.
Some foam , Sikoflex , rubber mounts .sound insulation . Often its two metal objects rattling against each other ? Try and see if you can see pipes remotely close ? Attention to the compressor mounts especially !! Its about the only part that moves or vibrates . Check that condenser or back of fridge is clean and vented ?? They still work better, more efficient .
Picture of an Engel compressor. Theres 4 pins that the compressor sits on with rubber grommets. Check the rubber grommets arent perished or gone hard. The Engel compressor is naturaly noisy due to it being a solenoid type compressor running at 50Hz.
Depends how cold you run it during the day & how much thermal mass.
We put thin ice bricks around the sides of the evaporator to freeze & held firmly in place & that gave enough ice for the night, actually 2 nights & our fridge is only 28L. At 28L a very poor volume to external surface area ratio.
It's easy to test over a few nights. There are bigger things to worry about than potentially no ice for a couple of days, unless, you shake & not stir your martini every night. Then you need a new fridge.
__________________
Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!
50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.
