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Post Info TOPIC: Inverter 3000 watt


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Inverter 3000 watt


I try to run my microwave 800 w only runs for 3 mins then Inverter cuts out Battery Voltage is 12.7 200ahs Clamp Meter says Microwave is pulling over 100 amps???Is this normal?? Have set low Voltage Battery saver to 12 Volts When Inverter cuts out all 12vstuff still works so dont think its low Battery Voltage Toaster/hairdryer/Coffee Machine everything else works a Treat?? Inverter works fine even runs the Aircon Is this Something I just have to accept that we cant use the Microwave off grid?

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The input watts of the microwave is a lot more than the 800 watts output.



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yes supposed to be Double around 1600 Watts but I would have tht the 1800watt Hairdryer Would have cut out but it didnt?

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Not sure what batteries you have but with AGMs you will often see the voltage drop below 12v but remember this is the terminal voltage.  Try setting it at 11.5v a see what happens.  When you turn it back off you will see the battery voltage climb again.

Also what size batteries do you have, what is the make of your inverter and what fusing do you have between the batteries and the inverter.  The reason why I ask regarding fusing is I had a resettable circuit breaker installed in my system that was causing the inverter to cut out.

Tim



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I assume your inverter is fed with 12V?

Your 800W *output* microwave will require about 1500W of *input* power. Therefore 1500 / 12 = 125 amps.

125A is a considerable current to draw, for any length of time, from 12V batteries and you will need a properly designed and engineered system to handle it.

The other appliances you mention are all thermal an will have intermittent current draw as they cycle according to temperature - the microwave, set to 100%, will be a continuous draw and it may be this which is causing your batteries to struggle - if so then more batteries are required.

As I'm currently discussing in another thread in the "Technical" section I would never consider running such appliances from a 12V supply, 24V is the minimum and 48V is far better.

As a possible quick fix try setting the microwave to 50% power and running it for twice as long... this may work?



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The data sheet for my batteries shows how long they last at different current. Drawing a very high current effectively reduces the AH of the battery.

 

As said about, try 50% for the microwave. It is still 100% draw but at a 50% duty cycle so the batteries may just cope.

 

How long is the wiring both + & - total length between batteries & inverter & what gauge. Might be worth doubling up the wire to reduce resistance. You could easily have 10% or worse going up in heat.



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Hi all Lots of Questions Its a Cheap Kings(Read heaps on these pretty good reviews) Yes I Know you get what you pay for but my Pockets arnt loaded I had the 1500w kings before with great results Yes I have short heavy leads 2x100 ah Batteries (12v200 Amps Even Battery saver set to 11v dosent make any Difference Overload switch dosent trip Inverter low voltage cutout is around 10v I understand re MW power Draw and now accept My set up wont run it Im happy with what it will run A bonus being able to run the Aircon for 10 mins or so on a very hot night We stay in Caravan parks most of the Time so will run the MW then Thanks all for your input Gerry

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Add an additional battery. The more you can share the load to reduce peak load on each battery the better. I am sure you can find lots of BS payload with no value that you can chuck out in lieu of battery.p

 

I started with 2 batteries & now have 4. You don't have a system twice as good. But probably about 3 to 4 times better depending on how you use the system.



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cheers for that could add another Bat and still be within legal weights

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Gezza E wrote:

Yes I have short heavy leads 2x100 ah Batteries


There is a lot more to *engineering* such a system than a couple of short heavy leads,

200Ah is nowhere near enough capacity to run air conditioners, microwaves and such - at a guess something like 1000Ah of *quality* lead acid or 600Ah of *quality* lithium will be required *and* enough solar to charge them.

Read this: Peukert's Law

Your 100Ah batteries are *only* 100Ah when you are drawing 5A (C/20) from them - when you are drawing 62.5A (half of a microwave) they are probably more like a 50Ah battery

I'm currently running 210Ah of AGM and use a small generator for microwave and AC.



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"I beseech you in the bowels of Christ think it possible you may be mistaken"

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AGM batteries are limited to how much power they can supply continuously to run a microwave. When new they seem to be able to keap the current up. If the battery are charged to 100 % voltage above 13 volts my 3 AGM will run the microwave at 90 amps for about 5 minutes, after that the voltage starts to drop. We have a new inverter microwave and I drop the Power setting to 50 to 60 percent, draws about 50 amps, (17 amps per battery ) and are able to run microwave for up to 30 minutes with no problem. Looked at new batteries and could not get a gaurantee they would be any better. Looked at Lithium but again a problem as not water proof enough for a truck based motorhome. Inverter microwave running at lower power seems to perform as good and seems a good fixs.

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Roger


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Mike Harding wrote:
Read this: Peukert's Law

Your 100Ah batteries are *only* 100Ah when you are drawing 5A (C/20) from them - when you are drawing 62.5A (half of a microwave) they are probably more like a 50Ah


 If drawing from the battery a lot more than C/20 on a regular basis you need more batteries. Firstly for the current situation so you have enough AH.

Also for the long term so the batteries last.

It is perfectly ok to draw the batteries down, let's say once a month, but doing it regularly really needs to be avoided.

 

If drawing less than C/20 on a regular basis as in our situation we have about 105% capacity for a new battery. But our batteries are about 4 years old so their capability is considerably reduced.

Swings & roundabouts!



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Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.



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Ok Thanks everyone for your comments Im sure I have enough info to make an informed Decision re my Microwave Now

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Mmmmm, 800watt microwave? that's the output power not the input power which will be between 1.5 to 2.0 times the output power.

 

So taking worst case scenario of a sh!tty Chinese made inefficient microwave oven to be 2 times the output power we would be looking at supplying 1,600 watts at 240V AC.

Watts divided by Volts = Amps 1600 / 240 = 6.67 amps.

Now calculate the conversion from 12VDC to 240VAC is a multiplier of 20

Now factor in that most of the very high power inverters don't run at anything better than about 80% efficiency so divide by 0.80

so:

6.67 x 20 / 0.8 = 167 amps is the draw from your batteries.

Now, whilst most modern LiFePO4 can tolerate a maximum 1C current draw, old lead acid can't and they also suffer from terrible voltage drop at high drain levels which only exacerbates the current draw problem.

I would say your 3000W inverter is cutting out because the power supply is to it is not up to snuff.



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For years and years I ran a 800W microwave purchased from Big W on my cheap Chinese 1500W inverter with a 120Ah battery.  Of course I had to be mindful of how much power I drew from the battery but my two 200W solar panels helped.  I must say that the battery was used and abused but still has great capacity although now it sits in my garage in retirement smile.



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