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Click here for the Grey Nomads website -> The Grey Nomads Forum -> Techies' Corner -> Waeco CFX50W works fine on 240V but not on 12V
Post Info TOPIC: Waeco CFX50W works fine on 240V but not on 12V
dsfifty


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Waeco CFX50W works fine on 240V but not on 12V
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Hi all. There are some good fridge techies here I see.

Here's my evidence:

1. For about a year the fridge would only work when the display is on its dimmest setting. Otherwise it flashes and the fridge doesn't operate.

2. Now on 12V, it turns on for only a couple of seconds, then the green light goes orange.

3. Emergency override works fine on 12V.

4. It works fine on 240V.

5. 12.7V is getting to the board (not sure what it's called but has the FACDCPT pins) See photo.

6. When connecting C and T the compressor runs.

 

I'm at a loss as what to try next. I suspect the control panel board because of the dimming issue. I thought I'd open up for ideas before I throw $100 or more at one.



-- Edited by dsfifty on Sunday 21st of May 2023 12:44:53 PM

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Possum3


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Welcome to the Forum dsfifty, can't help you with your query sorry.



-- Edited by Possum3 on Sunday 21st of May 2023 03:28:49 PM

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Whenarewethere


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Maybe the thermistor has broken. There are videos on the internet how to replace, if that is the issue. Personally if that is the case I would cut a large patch out of the bottom of the fridge rather than trying to remove the bottom cover.



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dsfifty


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Whenarewethere wrote:

Maybe the thermistor has broken. There are videos on the internet how to replace, if that is the issue. Personally if that is the case I would cut a large patch out of the bottom of the fridge rather than trying to remove the bottom cover.

 Do you think it would run fine on 240V if that's the case?

Surely the thermistor being broken would affect 240V operation as well?



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Whenarewethere


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You are right, I wasn't thinking properly.



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Whenarewethere


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Is it getting 12.7 volts when the compressor is running.

 

Have you wiring directly, avoiding the standard cable with fuse, & does the 12v supply have enough amps, if it s a tired battery it maybe an issue.

 



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50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.
dsfifty


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Whenarewethere wrote:

Is it getting 12.7 volts when the compressor is running.

 

Have you wiring directly, avoiding the standard cable with fuse, & does the 12v supply have enough amps, if it s a tired battery it maybe an issue.

 

 This is worth checking. Thanks.



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Whenarewethere


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Some information on my Waeco fridge. I replaced the 16awg wiring in the fridge with 12awg (don't think I mentioned that modification in the thread, but saves about 0.17 volts due to the crap 12v wiring. The 2m Waeco cable is 16awg, too thin!)

 

https://thegreynomads.activeboard.com/t65059593/extra-fridge-insulation-wattage-test/



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Whenarewethere


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I got caught out a few months ago. I leave the fridge running in the car (for current reasons) & plug in Victron charger when parked. But I had forgot to turn it on in this instance. I was fiddling around with the cut off voltage & everything else.

Finally realising, after "kick in head", the batteries were basically flat.



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dsfifty


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Whenarewethere wrote:

Is it getting 12.7 volts when the compressor is running.

 

Have you wiring directly, avoiding the standard cable with fuse, & does the 12v supply have enough amps, if it s a tired battery it maybe an issue.

 

 I measured the voltage again with the compressor running. 12.2V!! A full 0.5V difference. This could easily be triggering the LVC, even though it is set on low.

In other news, it's working again. 

I opened up the fuse in the cable and jiggered it around a bit, but just can't get it to fault again.

I'm not sure if I'm happy or not. I suspect I haven't fixed anything, just delayed my issue.



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Whenarewethere


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Voltage seems fine, but shorten the 16awg cable & replace it with 12awg. Even if you want to keep both ends, splice thicker wire between.

 

I put a 7amp panel circuit breaker from Jaycar in my fridge so don't need a fuse in the cable.



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Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

50L custom fuel rack 6x20W 100/20mppt 4x26Ah gel 28L super insulated fridge TPMS 3 ARB compressors heatsink fan cooled 4L tank aftercooler Air/water OCD cleaning 4 stage car acoustic insulation.
dsfifty


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Whenarewethere wrote:

Voltage seems fine, but shorten the 16awg cable & replace it with 12awg. Even if you want to keep both ends, splice thicker wire between.

 

I put a 7amp panel circuit breaker from Jaycar in my fridge so don't need a fuse in the cable.

 I might build up an Anderson plug cable and safe the worry.

I have a 15A fuse on my Battery already.

Thanks for your input. It's helpful.



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dsfifty


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Well as predicted, it stopped working after about 2 hours. Acting exactly as if it has reached the thermostat temperature.

So I took a $135 gamble and bought a replacement controller PCB from here.

Delivery was quick, it solved the problem.

The Waeco works again on 12V and no dimming display problem.

Maybe this will help someone else.

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laurieoz


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Good of you to post a reply on how it was fixed

Many don't do this

Laurie



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