I have had the van since new, and 1st problem we had was grey water tank supports breaking of. This fixed by Syd RV no issues there and yes they did do a 1000 klm service.
My present issue occured on a return journey from a caravan muster.
We live in Hartley NSW and the muster was in Qld, St George to be exact.
We have done several trips in the van including Broken Hill once.
Anyhow, this last trip the wheel studs sheered of causing damage to the chasis, the location was near Mendooran NSW.
Prior to this we had had a window issue near Hebel where the outer laminate seperated from the inner laminate.
My problem is whether to go through Insure path where we would lose our " no claim bonus" or go through the Warranty.
I should add the is very slight hail damage on the side wall.
If your windows are Dometic brand, check the recall section in the techies forum to see if yours are part of a general recall issued last year. You may have options to have them replaced by Dometic.
Wheel studs need to be checked on a regular basis and especially after fitting from new or after a wheel is removed and replaced.
This is fundamental vehicle safety.
I suggest that you have no one to blame except yourself.
Was there any stud hole damage to the rim in question? Was the other rim checked?
Cheers,
Peter
Dont know why they came off, but with the van being so new relativly I cant imagine.
My van has the following in the user manual (Pre-departure checklist)
Check that the wheel nuts on all wheels have been tightened to the manufacturers specification for wheel nuts. These should be tightened with a torque wrench to the correct torque and they should be tightened after each 100km for the first 400km and they should be checked every 1000km or six months.
After reading this post I'm adding a torque wrench to my tool set list.
There are primarily only two reasons for wheel studs shearing off.
The first is the obvious one of too loose either because of not being tightened sufficiently or not checked after a wheel having been removed as others have said.
The second which can happen some time after the initial cause, is overtightening.
Bolts mostly work by stretching slightly as they are tightened to a specified torque so locking the nut.
This slight stretch will return to its static state once the tension is released and the bolt remains good .
However if the bolt is significantly overtighten, then the stretch in the bolt will remain and the bolt is significantly weakened.
At some point down the track the bolt will fail and on something like a wheel it becomes like a zipper effect, with one failing increasing the load on the other weakened studs and them all failing one after the other.
If you had the van serviced and the young apprentice used the rattle gun at full torque on your wheel nuts it's a real good chance that all the studs are weakened.
When I picked up my new van I caught one of the workers with a large wheel brace swinging on it like a monkey and had to stop him before he overtighten them.
They didn't process a torque wrench so I dragged out mine and did them myself. I suggested they invest in one before they have a wheel come off on one of their vans.
Peter, you are so right about that, it was one of the things I was concerned about when 1st buying not just this van but our old one too.
I was talked out of installing them
They do have leaf springs tho which I am told are sufficient. Hmmm
In a previous life, 1980s, one of my friends (corporate speaking). Always had Ford do the servicing on his car. They sheared off the thread within a nano metre of its life replacing brake pads/disc so the nut wouldn't fall off Within the last .1mm of the stud.
I question how do mechanics record data on Nm dry tightening of wheel nuts (not wet tightening) of wheel nuts.
P.S. One wonders of the total lack of any level any basic fundamental level of physics. Brain dead on all & every level from mid primary school basic education... at least in the 1979s.
Just how it is today.
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Just a comment on "shock absorbers." They do not reduce shock loads on suspensions, but in fact increase them due to the fact that they reduce spring travel.
The term is completely erroneous, they are spring dampers.
The torque is very relevant.
Did you not read my previous post?
Incorrectly torqued wheel nuts are the BIGGEST cause of stud failure both in cars and caravans.
Trailer axles in particular, as the grade of steel in the studs is often questionable and correct torque is even more relevant.
I cannot stress this enough.
The very fact that you say the wheels had been off the van prior to the studs failing points right at this being the cause.
The torque is very relevant. Did you not read my previous post? Incorrectly torqued wheel nuts are the BIGGEST cause of stud failure both in cars and caravans. Trailer axles in particular, as the grade of steel in the studs is often questionable and correct torque is even more relevant. I cannot stress this enough. The very fact that you say the wheels had been off the van prior to the studs failing points right at this being the cause.
A very good video.
The loose wheel is more than likely what has happened in the OP's case, but I have had tyre shops do nuts up so tight with a large rattle gun that a 600mm breaker bar with 4' of pipe on the handle wasn't moving them unless I jumped on the pipe and eventually broke the breaker bar.
The studs were stretched beyond repair and ruined and I had to replace the studs.
And you don't need to carry about a long torque wrench any more.
I have the normal large torque wrench in my workshop but I bought a small digital device that fits onto you breaker bar or 1/2" wheelbrace between the brace and the socket which is a remarkably accurate torque gauge, quite light in weight and about 50mm in diameter and 75mm long.
Has a screen showing torque and a beeper with light that warns you when you approaching the preset torque figure.
I paid about $50 on Ebay.
Easily carried in the car.
Reads torque from 7nm to over 200nm.